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Peru

Lake Titicaca, which straddles Peru's border with Bolivia, is the highest navigable lake in the world -- and one of the most beautiful. The Inca ruins of Machu Picchu, which would be stunning anywhere, are truly spectacular in their Andean setting, high above the Urubamba River. And Cuzco, once the center of the Inca empire and now a vibrant gateway to Inca ruins, is even higher in the Andes.

Yet even at sea level, Peru can leave you breathless. With unspoiled beaches, coastal desert, deep canyons and dense Amazon jungle, its variety of natural wonders is astonishing.

Then, there are the cultural treasures. The contrast between old and new runs throughout the land: Poncho-clad Amerindians walk their llamas through modern cities, past Spanish cathedrals built on the foundations of ancient Inca ruins. Giant, stylized designs were etched in the earth by a great -- and unknown -- civilization.

Peru is where pre-Columbian culture reached its most graceful peak. Like the Parthenon in Greece or the Pyramids of Egypt, the Inca and pre-Inca ruins of Peru provide an unforgettable glimpse of the genius of a lost world...

Where to Go

AMAZON

Along the Amazon River, clamoring monkeys and birds, huge primeval trees, hanging vines and abundant insect activity bring to life every jungle movie scene you've ever watched. As you whack through the undergrowth with your machete or drift down a tributary in your dugout canoe, you'll be reliving the experiences of early explorers (and a few actors)—not much has changed with the passage of time. While there are several ways to experience the rain forest, we suggest staying in a jungle lodge. The lodges have varying degrees of seclusion, but all are reachable only by boat and offer comfort levels that range from very basic to basic-but-comfortable.

Another way to experience the river is on a boat cruise. These vary in length; some begin or end in Iquitos, others in Leticia, Colombia. We'd recommend a relatively short one—ours was interesting for the first few days, but then everything began to look the same. However, for those who can tolerate jungles, heat and insects in order to see a great variety of birds (and, if you're lucky, some animals), the trip can be worthwhile. In addition to the tourist cruises, you can sometimes secure accommodations on cargo boats that travel where few tourists go: The Juliana makes a trip of three or four days down the Ucayali River from Pucallpa to Iquitos, and the Madreselva begins where the Amazon begins, in Nauta, ending in Pucallpa. These trips are usually booked locally in Iquitos and Pucallpa, but adventure outfitters sometimes can help you make arrangements from outside the country. Puerto Maldonado is another place from which you can embark on jungle adventures. A few hours by river from Puerto Maldonado is the spectacular Tambopata Wildlife Reserve, with an extensive variety of birds, mammals and more than 1,000 species of butterflies. (Our favorite, the beautifully blue iridescent Morpho, has a wingspan of up to 8 in/20 cm.)

AREQUIPA

Sparkling in the sun, Arequipa is called the White City because of the sillar, a white volcanic stone that makes up its buildings, modern as well as Spanish colonial. Peru's second-largest city (pop. 635,000) sits surrounded by towering mountains—including the 19,000-ft/5800-m volcano El Misti. The city itself is the home of the monastery of La Recoleta (with a museum and library) and several interesting churches, but its highlight is the Santa Catalina Convent. Built in the late 16th century (but closed to the public until 1970), the convent was a self-contained community, a place where nuns could worship and live in total isolation. Walk through the well-preserved convent, soak up the peaceful atmosphere and discover the tiny, secluded plazas and lovely courtyards within.

From Arequipa, take a guided tour of Colca Canyon, one of the deepest canyons in the world (11,500 ft/3,500 m deep). A journey to the canyon offers a view of extensive pre-Inca and Inca agricultural terracing, some of which is still farmed today, as well as a chance to see Andean condors at Cruz del Condor, a lookout point. Adventurous travelers can follow in the footsteps of the chasqui, the Inca foot messengers, and trek the canyon. Or visit the Reserva Nacional de Salinas y Aguada Blanca, a nature reserve with stunning lakes and salt flats, located high in the surrounding mountains. 465 mi/750 km southeast of Lima.

AYACUCHO

Ayacucho (pop. 101,000) is known as the "City of Churches" for good reason: There are more than 30 in this town, including some of the most beautiful cathedrals in Peru. Until the early 1990s, Ayacucho was also known as the home of the less-than-saintly Shining Path guerilla group. Fortunately, the terrorists are now gone, but the churches remain and travelers have begun to return to this mountain city (it sits at approximately 9,000 ft/2,800 m). Start your visit at Plaza de Armas, the city's central square and home of the city's beautiful 17th-century cathedral. We also like Santo Domingo church, which has the prettiest exterior of all the churches in Ayacucho. The Anthropology and Archaeology Museum has artifacts from several pre-Inca cultures.

From Ayacucho, you can take a tour to the Wari Ruins—a pre-Inca city with recognizable streets, plazas and canals. There are Inca ruins at nearby Vilcashuaman. The last battle for Peruvian independence was fought near the city in 1824. Visit the Santuario Historico de la Pampa de Ayacucho and the Reserva Nacional de Pampas Galeras to learn more about it.

Ayacucho is widely known for its Semana Santa celebration, and accommodations are hard to find during this week. The seven days leading up to Easter Sunday include elaborate processions, sidewalk art, music, food and bull-running (like in Pamplona, Spain). Plan at least two nights in Ayacucho, longer if you're visiting during Semana Santa. 250 mi/400 km southeast of Lima.

CAJAMARCA

This town (pop. 70,000) primarily attracts those who are interested in the history of the Spanish conquest of Peru or who would like to soak in a historic thermal bath. In 1532, the army of Inca emperor Atahualpa (at war with his half-brother Huascar) was camped at Los Banos del Inca, the nearby thermal baths. Pizarro's tiny band of about 160 men attacked them with cannon and cavalry—terrors the Incas had never before experienced. The Spaniards massacred the Inca army and captured Atahualpa, who was held for ransom. In exchange for his liberty, Atahualpa agreed to fill up a large room with six tons of gold and 12 tons of silver. Unwilling to keep up his part of the bargain, Pizarro ordered Atahualpa strangled. He kept the gold, too. See for yourself how much gold was necessary: El Cuarto del Rescate (the Ransom Room) still stands—the only Inca edifice that has remained intact.

There is an archaeological museum in town, and the main square, Plaza de Armas, is very lively at night. Cajamarca is very popular with Peruvians as a holiday resort, and interesting local handicrafts abound in the market. It's also known for its Carnival celebrations.

Nearby sights include Cumbe Mayo (petroglyphs and pre-Inca irrigation canals) and Cerro Santa Apolonia (a hill with the carved stone Seat of the Inca—the ruler is said to have reviewed his army from there). Plan two nights. 360 mi/580 km northwest of Lima.

CHAN CHAN

Once the capital of the Chimu kingdom, Chan Chan was the largest pre-Columbian city in South America. In fact, it is thought to be the largest adobe city ever built anywhere, with 100,000 residents inhabiting 10,000 buildings that covered 11 sq mi/28 sq km. It had nine subcities, each built by a different ruler, who on his death was buried in a central royal mausoleum (wives, concubines and servants were sacrificed as funerary offerings, and especially well-made gold objects were placed in the tomb).

Unfortunately, since its glory days, freak thunderstorms (extraordinarily heavy downpours every 30-50 years) and huaqueros (tomb robbers) have severely damaged the site. The Tschudi Complex, the best-preserved section of the old city, has original and restored walls, friezes and courtyards. It's best to stay with a large group when touring the ruins. Security is poor, and thieves lurk throughout the site. 305 mi/490 km northwest of Lima and 3 mi/5 km west of Trujillo.

CHICLAY

This city near the coast (pop. 625,000) is a thriving commercial center. Even though Chiclayo is not oriented to leisure travelers, it's a dynamic, lively and well-functioning city. The market offers woven straw items and other handicrafts. There's also a section devoted to "witches," where you can buy powders, dried animal parts and charms that purport to cure various ills. Day-trip possibilities include Tucume (a complex of 28 pyramids), the much-eroded adobe pyramids of Sipan and the Bruning Museum in Lambayeque (where spectacular pre-Inca finds from Sipan are on display). In early 2001, three Moche tombs were discovered in nearby Dos Cabezas, but the contents of the tombs are not yet on display for tourists. 420 mi/675 km northwest of Lima.

CUZCO

Cuzco (the Inca word means "navel," or "center") is the ancient capital of the Incas. Legend says that Manco Capac and his sister-consort, Mama Oclio, were born on the Island of the Sun (Isla de Sol) in sacred Lake Titicaca and founded the Inca empire in Cuzco, creating the huancaypata (today's Plaza de Armas) as the symbolic center of the empire. As the most-visited city in Peru, Cuzco (pop. 300,000) serves as the center of the tourist trade.

In 1534, Pizarro invaded the city and began pulling down the Inca structures and building a new Cuzco on the foundations of the old. The Cathedral Plaza de Armas (which has a solid silver altar) is built on the base of the Inca Viracocha Palace, and the church of Santo Domingo (one of the largest Roman Catholic churches in the world) is built over the Temple of the Sun (Coricancha)—excavations on the temple itself continue, despite opposition from the Catholic church. The temple is said to have had 700 gold panels, weighing five pounds each. Another fine church is La Merced, which has a solid gold monstrance (case for the Host) covered in jewels (the church is open for services in the morning and again late in the afternoon). The complex of La Merced also contains a monastery (women are not allowed into the monastery).

Some of the most important sights in Cuzco include ancient Inca ruins, such as the Tampumachay ritual bath, the Kenko (amphitheater of sacrifices) and the fortresses of Pucara and Sacsayhuaman (whose three ancient central towers—a symbol of the empire—were destroyed by the Spaniards). A sun-worshipping ceremony takes place at these fortresses in June. Also visit the archaeological museum, which has an excellent display of Inca artifacts. But spend some time just walking around town, too: Now and then it feels like it's still ancient. The mix of old with modern, hand-woven with machine-made is fascinating

When you arrive in Cuzco, buy a visitor's ticket at the tourist office: It will let you into more than a dozen places.

Cuzco is also a popular base for trekking, especially along the famous Inca Trail. This two- to four-day route takes you through dense cloud forest, ancient Inca outposts and the great Urubamba gorge, ending with a dramatic descent into Machu Picchu. The number of hikers on the trail is now limited to 500 per day, and everyone must be accompanied by a government-certified guide. (Any number of outfitters in Cuzco can arrange this.)

Outside Cuzco, throughout the Urubamba River Valley, there are other places of interest. One- to three-day rafting trips can be taken down the Urubamba River, passing terrace-lined valleys and the ruins of Ollantaytambo and Pisac. Nights are usually spent in local hotels. Pisac, a temple complex high atop a ridge, has a well-preserved sun temple, houses, terraces and baths. Chinchero is built on Inca walls, and inside the village church there's a statue of Pizarro on a horse (almost life-size, the horse has a human face). Chinchero hosts a lively market. If time and conditions permit, visit Ollantaytambo, on the train route to Machu Picchu—the entire town still has its original Inca-built stone walls, narrow streets and water system (flowing down a central channel cut in every street). In Ollantaytambo, you get a good look at the Inca's best-known skill—dry masonry. It took astounding craftsmanship to fit the huge blocks of stone together so precisely that, even after centuries of earthquakes, a knife cannot be slipped into the seams.

Note: It is imperative that visitors take it easy the first day or two in Cuzco. The city's high altitude (11,000 ft/3,350 m) can cause soroche, or altitude sickness, in people who have just arrived (especially those who have flown from cities with lower altitudes). Being mugged is also a possibility, especially around the market, the train station, in taxis and on the trains in and out of Cuzco. Safe, licensed taxis can be arranged by calling 222-222. The tourist police station is on Calle Saphi. 350 mi/565 km southeast of Lima.

HUANCAYO

Huancayo (pop. 258,000) is a busy commercial center in central Peru. See the Convento Santa Rosa de Ocopa, which has one of the most complete collections of antiquities in the country. There's also a museum of natural history, Torre Torre (two enormous towers) and Capilla La Merced, a national historical monument decorated with colonial paintings. Huancayo is a nice place to buy silver, llama rugs, blankets and other handicrafts. Plan one night's stay. We enjoyed the weekly Sunday market, but the pickpockets there are very skilled and very busy. 120 mi/195 km east of Lima.

HUARAZ

This town, with a ski-resort-type atmosphere, is the center for treks and mountain climbing in the Cordillera Blanca and Cordillera Huayhaush. Huaraz (pop. 65,000) has a glorious setting beneath the glaciated peaks of the Cordillera Blanca—from your hotel window you can see Huascaran (Peru's highest peak at 22,199 ft/6,768 m) and several others that reach more than 20,000 ft/6,100 m (Huascaran and the Cordillera Blanca are within Huascaran National Park). Several tour operators offer visits to the nearby Llanganuco Lakes, as well as climbs to the top of Alpamayo (which means "the world's most perfect mountain"), snow skiing, trekking and trips to see puya raimondii (a plant that grows up to 33 ft/10 m in height and that is found only in certain regions of the Andes). Several nearby towns have thermal baths where you can relax your muscles after hiking and climbing through the area.

Note: Glacial melt, which accumulates behind ice walls, periodically breaks through and can destroy anything in its path. (This combination waterfall-avalanche-mudslide is called an alluvion.) Before walking anywhere in the area, check locally to see which areas should be avoided. 180 mi/290 km north of Lima.

ICA

Set in the middle of dune-filled deserts, this city (pop. 152,000) on the banks of the Ica River is locally renowned for its grapes, wineries and distilleries (tours can be arranged). The grape-harvest season runs February-April. The surrounding deserts are popular with sandboarders. The Regional Museum in town has Nazca, Paracas and Inca artifacts (we particularly liked the mummies). Nearby is the Paracas National Reserve, the best shorebird sanctuary in South America. It's also home to Andean condors, as well as seals. Plan one night. 160 mi/260 km south of Lima.

IQUITOS

Known as the gateway to the Amazon, Iquitos lies on the banks of the mile-wide river in the middle of dense, flat jungle. This city of 350,000 has a floating market (known as Belen, or Bethlehem), several floating restaurants and some interesting shops selling Amerindian goods. Remnants of the boom days can be seen in the azulejos—handmade tiles imported from Portugal, which were used to decorate the mansions of rubber barons (also notice the imported lacy cast-iron balconies). Visit the house of Peruvian rubber baron Fitzcarraldo, made famous by the Werner Herzog movie of the same name.

Near the plaza is an iron house designed by Gustav Eiffel that was transported to Iquitos after the Paris Exhibition of 1898. Close by are beautiful Lake Quistococha and protected nature reserves, including Reserva Nacional Pacaya-Samiria, one of the largest protected areas in Peru, home to freshwater dolphins, turtles and monkeys. (An entry permit is required—get one from any Iquitos tour agency.)

Iquitos requires only one night to see everything, but visitors often use it as a base for escorted tours to jungle lodges. The tours run one to seven days—some of the lodges are only an hour from town by boat. The tours usually include visits to the Boras or Yaguas people (who use blowguns) or the Chapras headhunters. Some tour operators offer crocodile sightseeing at night. Hearty travelers can also book hiking and camping tours, which forego the lodges for more primitive campsites and long, humid jungle walks. Visitors to Iquitos can also go on to the Amazon Biosphere Reserve, which requires a two-day trip into the interior by boat. Both a tourist attraction and a research center, it has a covered walkway strung among the trees, 100 ft/30 m above the ground. 635 mi/1,020 km northeast of Lima.

LAKE TITICACA

Titicaca, the world's highest navigable lake, is a world unto itself—a definite must-see. The best way to see Titicaca is on the 12-hour train ride from Cuzco to Puno through the Andes, reaching an elevation of more than 14,000 ft/4,265 m as you pass by farms, people's backyards, waterfalls and bleak but wondrous scenery—clear blue sky, deep blue water and dry, reddish-brown landscape. Be aware that this train has been notorious for thievery—though on our last trip, we noticed a big improvement in security. Full-time guards watch the entrances to first-class carriages, which keeps out the thieves. For a more adventurous, authentic experience, take a second-class carriage—but be sure to keep your baggage secured to the overhead racks or in sight at all times. Be especially careful at Juliaca: That's where swarms of local residents board the train, and the lights can go out temporarily—a prime time for bag snatching.

Don't neglect the attractions on the Bolivian side of the lake. Stop overnight in Puno, an uninspiring town near the border that's one of the best places in Peru to buy Andean handicrafts—alpaca sweaters, rugs, ponchos and tapestries. (The town is also known for its colorful fiestas and folk dances.) Then continue by bus or car to Copacabana, just across the border, for Bolivian customs formalities and to tour the cathedral. With its small-village atmosphere and charm, this town is a nice overnight stay from which you can see more of the lake.

From Copacabana, board the hydrofoil or catamaran to cross the lake (stop to visit the Island of the Sun and its Inca ruins—this is the legendary birthplace of the first Inca, Manco Capac).

From Puno, tours or public transport are available to Taquile Island (small Inca ruins and very nice woven goods), Sillustani on Lake Umayo (to see chullpas, the funerary towers of the ancient Colla people) and the Floating Islands (actually enormous floating reed mats that support the Uros people's villages of reed huts—you can buy reed souvenirs there). 525 mi/850 km southeast of Lima, on the Peru/Bolivia border.

LIMA

The City of Kings, Peru's capital city of Lima (pop. 8,000,000) was founded by Francisco Pizarro in 1535 on 6 January, the Epiphany (Feast of the Kings). It was designed to be a purely Spanish city in a conquered territory, but it has turned out to be a rather drab and patched-together place—especially after 450 years of earthquakes.

The highlight of the city is the outstanding collection of Inca artifacts in the basement vault of the privately owned Museo de Oro del Peru, or Peruvian Gold Museum (upstairs is the Arms Museum, an incredible collection of weapons, ranging from spears to a Gatling gun). As extensive as the gold collection is, it's astonishing to realize that these are merely crumbs—the Spanish melted down or looted the best pieces. Also visit the Museo de la Nacion (National Museum—tours available in English), one of the largest museums in South America. Divided into exhibits looking at the past, present and future of Peru, it includes a model of the gold-laden tombs recently excavated at Sipan and reproductions of some of Peru's best archaeological sites.

Lima has 20 more museums, including the Museum of the Inquisition (torture instruments, university library and carved ceiling), the National Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology (pottery, textiles and stone figures from all of Peru's past cultures) and the Museo Rafael Larco Herrera (55,000 ceramic works, including erotic pre-Columbian pottery). Churches to see include the Cathedral on Plaza de Armas (it holds the remains of Pizarro), the baroque Church of San Francisco (beautiful hand-carved ceilings and catacombs containing 70,000 skeletons—take the guided tour) and La Merced (site of the first mass in Lima, it has a lovely cloister and chapel). Other sights include the Palacio Torre Tagle (a marvelous example of colonial architecture that now serves as the Foreign Ministry), Casa de Aliaga (built in 1535 and still occupied by the same family) and Casa de Oquendo (where General San Martin stayed after proclaiming Peru's independence).

On Plaza de Armas (the government center since 1535) is the Palacio de Gobierno (Presidential Palace, where a rather sad changing of the guard takes place daily at 12:45 pm), the Archbishop's Palace (notice the ornate balconies) and the central bronze fountain. Barrio Chino (Chinatown) merits a visit at dinnertime. Should time allow, include the Puente de Piedra, a 530-ft/162-m stone bridge built 200 years ago. You also might want to visit the seaside suburbs of Miraflores (a good place to stay away from the hubbub and smog of the central district) and Barranca (lively nightlife and the center for performing arts in Peru). We especially enjoyed the art cinemas in Miraflores and Parque Salazar, which has paths that lead down to beaches where you can swim or surf (if you like very cold water). Aficionados should note that Lima hosts a bullfighting festival in October.

Nearby is the town of Pachacamac, which has some very good Inca ruins (allow at least a half day for this excursion). The Temple of the Virgins, the Temple of the Sun and the well-preserved irrigation systems are among its attractions. Also near Lima is Canta, on a hill overlooking the Chillon River Valley. A 2-3 hour hike takes you to the pre-Inca ruins of Catamarca. You can camp there and walk through the high mountain pass of La Viuda. The towns of San Pedro and Marcahuasi have enigmatic rock formations in the shapes of animals. Nearby is La Fortaleza (the fortress), and Lunahuana, the most popular place for whitewater rafting on the Chillon river (tournaments are held there in February). The Festival de la Uva is held on the first Sunday in March, and the Festival del Nispero is the first week of October. Huacho is the closest town to Lomas de Lachay, which is a national reserve with lots of bird life and trails, camping and picnic spots.

MACHU PICCHU

Machu Picchu, at an elevation of 8,000 ft/2,450 m (much lower than nearby Cuzco), has the most spectacular setting of any ruin in the world—even those who aren't normally excited by archaeology will be impressed. This "Lost City of the Incas" is a place everyone must see at least once.

Unknown to the outside world until Yale's Hiram Bingham discovered it in 1911, Machu Picchu sits on the spine of a ridge 2,000 ft/610 m above the rushing Urubamba River. Capping the end of the ridge is Huaynu Picchu, a soaring peak that offers a challenging climb—and a bird's-eye view of the complex as a reward. Once atop Huaynu Picchu, linger for a view of the surrounding misty green-clad mountains and you'll understand why the last Incas chose to hide there.

Machu Picchu's grassy central court is surrounded by almost 200 houses, palaces and temples built from perfectly fitted stone blocks. Especially notable are the Temple of the Sun (the only round building), the Temple of the Three Windows (trapezoidal openings), the Sacristy (full of mysterious niches) and the Intihuatana (Hitching Post of the Sun). Stone and earth terraces (designed for farming and defense) descend the mountain around three sides of the city—the fourth side is a sheer cliff.

To get to Machu Picchu, take the train from Cuzco (reservations recommended—easily made through Cuzco-based travel agents)—the ride itself is an adventure. It leaves Cuzco in the early morning, climbs switchbacks, descends into a valley and passes through Amerindian villages before reaching its destination. From the station, a bus crosses a boulder-strewn stream and takes visitors up 14 switchbacks to Hotel Machu Picchu (rooms must be booked months in advance), adjacent to the entrance. You can see the ruins on a day trip from Cuzco, but you'll miss the eerie, misty sunset and an even more magical sunrise over the ruins if you don't spend the night. If you're feeling really fit, you could reach the ruins via the famous Inca Trail, an ancient pathway that passes through cloud forests, gorges, ancient Inca outposts before descending into Machu Picchu. The number of hikers on the Inca Trail is now limited to 500 per day, and everyone must be accompanied by a government-certified guide. (Any number of outfitters in Cuzco or Lima can arrange this.) It takes between two and four days to reach Machu Picchu via the Inca Trail. 70 mi/115 km by train northwest of Cuzco.

MANU NATIONAL PARK

If you have the time, the money and a true love of the rain forest, the journey into Manu National Park is a must—in our opinion, it's the most worthwhile jungle adventure in all of South America. The park is a World Natural Heritage Site and Biosphere Reserve of 445 acres/180 hectares of mostly virgin rain forest and Amerindian villages. It is one of the largest protected tracts (more than 8,500 sq mi/22,000 sq km) of tropical rain forest in the world. The park is divided into three zones: the Park Zone (scientists only), the Reserve Zone (permits and guides required) and the Cultural Zone, which is open to everyone and offers accommodations. Tours can be booked through adventure-travel companies. Note that yellow fever is present in the park. 100 mi/160 km northeast of Cuzco.

NAZCA PLAIN

The Nazca Lines on the plains south of Lima can be reached either by air or by a several-hour bus ride. Upon arrival, visitors board a small plane to fly over ruins and stylized designs cut into the ground. These enormous drawings were outlined by unknown persons; they did it by removing large, dark-colored stones and exposing the lighter patches just below the surface. The designs depict people, fish, birds (from hummingbirds to condors) and other, more abstract figures, ranging in size from about 300 ft/90 m to several miles in length. Because the designs can only be seen clearly from the air, the artists never saw their completed works, unless Erich von Daniken was right (his book, Chariots of the Gods, imagines ancient astronauts and landing fields). Actually, we've heard several different stories about their origin—a different one from each guide we've encountered—so we can't say much more than that they're pre-Inca and they're fascinating. We can safely assume that they were made sometime between 900 BC and AD 630. Two of the more popular present-day theories on the meaning of the lines: First, that the lines were a giant astronomical calendar and, second, that they were running tracks used in rituals. 240 mi/385 km southeast of Lima.

PIURA

The oldest colonial town in Peru, Piura (pop. 325,000) was founded by Pizarro in 1532. Originally on a site north of the Chira River, it was moved to its present location in 1588. We particularly enjoyed Jiron Lima, the best-preserved colonial street in town. The Cathedral on the shady Plaza de Armas includes works by local artists. The archaeology museum, also on the Plaza, displays 2,000-year-old Vicus pottery. For history buffs, there's a naval museum in the house of Admiral Grau, hero of Peru's 1879 War of the Pacific. A day trip to nearby Catacaos should include a stop at the handicraft market there (wood, straw and leather goods, as well as gold- and silver-filigree work). 120 mi/195 km north of Chiclayo.

PUCALLPA

This inland town (pop. 153,000) lies on the banks of the Ucayali River, which, together with the Maranon, forms the Amazon headwaters. In some ways, Pucallpa reminds us of a county seat in the U.S. Midwest—a place where people go to shop. But around this town, the terrain is jungle, not prairie. In other ways, Pucallpa is a typical booming frontier town: Large oil, gas and gold discoveries have brought about an explosion of the population, which—as in the frontier days in the U.S.—has brought about a rise in violent crime and thievery. (The outskirts of town—especially around the rivers—are the most dangerous areas.) The zoo, called Parque Natural de Pucallpa, has a variety of animals from the surrounding rain forest. La Brisa, a lodge in the nearby Yarinacocha Lake region, organizes jungle and bird-watching expeditions. The lake itself is only 15 minutes from town by taxi. There's also a good Amerindian market in the area called Moroti Shobo. 310 mi/500 km northeast of Lima.

TRUJILLO

One of Peru's largest cities, Trujillo (pop. 650,000) is mainly used by travelers as a base from which to visit Chan Chan, the ruins of the Chimu civilization. In addition, this port city has fine beaches, a zoology museum and an archaeological museum. The Marinera festival (late January) and the series of festivals in August (especially during the third week) are fun events with street processions, music, bullfighting, dances and a variety of food.

Another Chimu site, located nearby, is Arco Iris, a temple and possible burial site, which Pizarro had covered up with sand to keep it hidden. When it was finally uncovered, the original designs were wonderfully preserved. On the outskirts of town are some adobe Moche temples. Unfortunately, the original buildings are rather damaged and crumbling—what you'll see now are reconstructions. Tours of the nearby Temple of the Sun, Temple of the Moon and Temple of the Dragon are definitely worth the visit, however. Huanchaco is a small fishing village 7 mi/11 km to the north where restaurants serve ceviche, and you can watch fishermen take their tortora reed boats out to sea. Plan one night in Trujillo. 310 mi/500 km northwest of Lima.

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History

Before the Inca empire, many civilizations flourished in Peru. The Moche culture (noted for exceptionally fine pottery), the Nazca culture (which made huge drawings in the desert) and the Chimu Kingdom (with its large adobe cities) are but three examples. It is the Incas, however, whose civilization is best known -- their empire, though short-lived, covered the South American Andes from modern-day Colombia to Chile.

Their lands were held together by an extensive network of roads, traversed by imperial messengers bearing quipus, or knotted-string messages. The empire was incredibly skillful in its use of dry masonry, irrigation and terraces. The city of Machu Picchu -- made of large stones interlocked like fingers with no mortar used -- attests to the technical and aesthetic mastery of this Amerindian empire.

All that came to an end when, in 1532, the Spanish conquistador Pizarro arrived with a small but well-armed force, captured the emperor Atahualpa and began the destruction of a culture. Today, Peruvians are ambivalent about their past: Pride in their Spanish and Inca heritage mixes with shame over the sometimes brutal actions of their forefathers.

After winning independence from Spain in 1821, Peru enjoyed a short period of republican government, followed by nearly 160 years of "good" dictatorships alternating with corrupt tyrannies, ineffectual democratic administrations and sheer anarchy. The last decade has signaled a new stability, but complex economic and political problems remain. Sporadic attacks by guerrilla groups have continued, despite the arrest of most of the leaders of the Shining Path, the most violent group. In the 2000 presidential election, Alberto Fujimori was declared the winner, but allegations of vote-rigging were so persistent that most nations, including the U.S., did not recognize the results. Fujimori eventually fled the country, and in June 2001, Alejandro Toledo was elected president.

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Dining

Sample the local food -- Peruvian dishes can be outstanding -- but to be on the safe side, dine in the better hotels and restaurants. Much of the food is highly seasoned -- in fact, it can be hot and spicy. Lomo saltado is a hearty beef, vegetable and rice dish that seems to appear on every Peruvian menu: When in doubt, order it (vegetarians excepted). Ceviche de Corvina (deep-sea fish marinated in lemon, chilies and onions, served cold) is a Peruvian specialty. The best ceviche we've ever tasted was in Lima, but we made sure that the place followed the highest of sanitation standards. We also enjoyed the Lake Titicaca trout served on Taquile Island.

Try the local drinks (except for the wine, which is not that good). Pisco -- brandy from the Inca valley -- is used to make delicious pisco sours. Mate de coca, an herbal tea brewed from coca leaves, is a popular energy booster and is said to relieve symptoms of altitude sickness. (It's available free in many hotel lobbies.) Inca Kola has a very sweet, bubble-gum flavor that does not appeal to everyone.

Unlike much of South America, Peruvians generally eat at about the same time as North Americans, with lunch beginning at noon-1 pm and dinner at 7-8 pm. A late afternoon snack, called lonche, is often eaten around 5 pm. Restaurants typically open at noon and close at 11 pm.

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Shopping

Shop for alpaca-wool sweaters and rugs, gold, Inca walking sticks, miniature handmade statues, woven-straw items, ponchos, llama rugs, cotton and linen fabrics, blankets, silver, tapestries, wood and leather products, Andean oil paintings, silkscreen prints and pottery. The gold- and silver-filigree work can be excellent. Along Jiron de la Union (Union Street, in English) in Lima you'll find hundreds of shops filled with all the souvenirs a tourist could desire. There are also good shops in the deluxe hotels. Bargaining is the rule in markets, but prices are fixed in hotel shops.

Be aware that no one can export artifacts or antiques. If you want to buy anything that looks remotely old, contact the Peruvian Institute of Culture to verify that you can take it home with you. Handicrafts made with the feathers of certain birds are also illegal.

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Climate

There is no single climate in Peru -- the deserts, jungles, mountain villages and coastal cities are each under the influence of different natural forces. And while there is no perfect time to see them all, February and March are fairly tolerable everywhere. The rainy season (a misnomer, really -- it rarely rains) is June-September in Lima (humidity can be as high as 98% during this time) and November-March in the mountains. North and east highlands are subject to heavy rain from October-April. Along the Amazon, it's always hot and humid (it is a jungle, after all). Be sure to take a sweater (or something heavier) if you're going to Cuzco and Machu Picchu. The greatest number of foreign tourists visit Peru July-September -- which is also when Peruvians take their vacations. It's best to avoid this time, as prices are high and hotels are crowded.

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Health

Medical care is limited. Serious medical problems requiring hospitalization and/or medical evacuation to the U.S. or Europe can cost thousands of dollars or more. Doctors and hospitals often expect immediate cash payment for health services.

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Basics

- Capital City: Lima
- Economy: Industry, agriculture.
- Language Description: Spanish, Quechua (Inca), Aymara.
- Passport/Visa U.S.: A passport and proof of onward passage are needed by citizens of Australia, Canada, the U.K. and the U.S. for tourist visits of 90 days or less. Reconfirm travel document requirements with your carrier before departure.
- Population: 27,012,899
- Religion: Christian (Roman Catholic).
- Telephone Codes: 51, country code; 1, city code for Lima; 84, city code for Cuzco
- Time Zone: 5 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time (-5 GMT). - Daylight Saving Time is not observed
- Tipping Overview: In top restaurants, an 18% service charge is usually included in the bill if you are paying by credit card. There is no service charge if you pay in cash. In restaurants that do not accept credit cards, a 5%-10% tip is normal if you are satisfied with the service. Taxi drivers are not normally given a tip.
- Voltage Requirements: 220 volts

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Do's and Don'ts

Do find some time to relax in Cuzco's main plaza. It's an enjoyable place to sit and watch the world go by, with a backdrop of Inca and colonial Spanish architecture, and beyond that, the Andes. But don't relax too much—the plaza is also a hangout for pickpockets and petty thieves.

Do try to acquire small bills whenever changing money—there seems to be a constant shortage of change in Peruvian cities.

Don't accept bills that are torn or taped—no matter how slightly—because almost no one will accept them. That's because counterfeiting is a problem in Peru. Check your bills by holding them up to a light. You should see a watermark and a very small strip that says "Peru 50" or "Peru 20" depending upon the denomination of the bill.

Don't allow yourself to be easily distracted by the action around you. Different tactics seem to go in and out of style among thieves, but their main objective is to divert your attention—staging a fight or accident, for example—so they can make their move when you're focused on something else.

Do keep your eye on your baggage. We should mention that one of our correspondents spent three months in Peru without any problems—until departure at the airport, when he set his camera down for a moment. It was a moment too long.

Don't expect to see the headhunter tribes in resplendent primitive glory. Though it's now forbidden by law for them to practice their art, they are well aware of the fascination their tribes hold for tourists, and visits to Amerindian villages have become very commercial. On our last trip, we came around the bend of a river a little too early and caught a fellow changing his swimming trunks for a grass skirt.

Do consult your local camera store about how to take pictures where there's lots of glare. Also mention that you'll be at high altitudes, as well as in high humidity. (Take along a plastic bag if you're going to the Amazon region to keep moisture out of your camera.).

Don't count on getting hot tap water, even in hotels that advertise they have it. Electricity, used to heat water, is sporadic in most medium-sized and small towns in Peru.

Do look for tapes or CDs of the lively music from Peru's coastal barrios, such as Afro-Peruvian Classics: The Soul of Black Peru (Luaka Bop).

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Passport & Visa

VISA

Required by all except the following:

- nationals of EU countries, Australia, Canada, USA and Japan travelling as tourists for stays of up to 90 days;

- nationals of Andorra, Antigua & Barbuda, Argentina, Bahamas, Barbados, Belize, Bolivia, Brazil, Brunei, Chile, Colombia, Cook Islands, Costa Rica, Dominica, Dominican Republic, Ecuador, El Salvador, Fiji, Grenada, Guatemala, Guyana, Haiti, Honduras, Hong Kong, Iceland, Indonesia, Israel, Jamaica, Kiribati, Korea (Rep. of), Liechtenstein, Malaysia, Malta, Marshall Islands, Mexico, Micronesia (FS), Monaco, Nauru, New Zealand, Nicaragua, Niue, Norway, Palau, Panama, Papua New Guinea, Paraguay, Philippines, St Kitts & Nevis, St Lucia, St Vincent & the Grenadines, Samoa, San Marino, Singapore, Solomon Islands, South Africa, Surinam, Switzerland, Taiwan, Thailand, Tonga, Trinidad & Tobago, Tuvalu, Uruguay, Vanuatu, Vatican City and Venezuela, provided travelling as tourists, for stays of up to 90 days

Note for business travellers: A Business visa is required for all nationals if the purpose of the visit is business. Upon arrival in Peru, the Business visa holder must register at the Dirección General de Contribuciones for taxation purposes. Business visa holders can remain in Peru for 90 days. If wishing to extend the visit, an application must be lodged with the Dirección General de Migraciones.

PASSPORT

Valid passport required by all.

IMPORTANT: we cannot held responsible for the correctness of this information.

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© Copyright: John Nelson