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Mexico

Historical sites, archaeological ruins, fiestas, beaches, fishing, water sports (scuba diving, snorkeling, surfing), golf, bullfighting, shopping, handicrafts, music, dance, relaxation and moderate prices are Mexico's foremost attractions...

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ACAPULCO

Acapulco is the largest and most spectacular tourist resort in the Mexican Pacific. As a result of its stunning beaches, exuberant natural surroundings and wonderful climate, this port has been dubbed the Pearl of the Pacific. It is the most popular holiday resort in Mexico and Latin America, since its functional, modern infrastructure has had very little impact on its original beauty or attractions.

Set in gorgeous natural surroundings, Acapulco offers an enormous range of attractions and activities. Calm, sunny beaches and exuberant vegetation that surrounds one of the loveliest bays in the Pacific blend seamlessly with major hotel complexes, superb restaurants and wonderful nightclubs.

Acapulco has something to suit every taste and budget and offers a range of activities for the whole family. The main attraction of the bay are its more than twenty beaches, each with a distinct atmosphere, where you can choose your favorite water sport. Enthusiasts will find ample opportunities for sports fishing, diving, water skiing and snorkeling. There are also several ecological areas that are ideal for picnics and horse riding, as well as golf courses and tennis courts.

Acapulco is a wonderful place for shopping in stores that combine luxury with comfort.

It also boasts a variety of restaurants offering everything from regional to international cuisine. The port’s nightlife is intense and extremely diverse, offering something for every taste.

Acapulco is located 200 mi/320 km away from the Mexico City along the Autopista del Sol. It also boasts an excellent international airport.

CAMPECHE

This city on the gulf shores of the Yucatan Peninsula (pop. 220,000) was founded by the Spanish in 1540 on the site of an ancient village—the Maya called it "The Land of Serpents and Ticks." The city became a wealthy colonial port, which attracted the attention of pirates who terrorized the Gulf of Mexico. After several bloody attacks, the Spanish fortified Campeche with a series of citadels and thick walls, called baluartes. Many of them can be visited today, and some have been made into small museums displaying Maya artifacts from the city's colonial past.

Take some time to walk along the circuito baluarte and through the old sections of town, which were nicely renovated in 1996. Visitors can explore various churches and plazas, including the Cathedral Concepcion, which was built between 1540 and 1704. During peak tourist season, music and Ballet Folklorico performances are held in the downtown plaza on Wednesday and Thursday at 8 pm. The museum at San Miguel Fort (with its cannons, tower and moat) houses a good collection of pre-Columbian artifacts, including six peerless jade funeral masks. And if you get a chance, take a trolley ride around the city. (It leaves from Parque Principal daily at 9:30 am, 6 pm and 9 pm and costs about US$2.)

Also plan to visit the Maya ruins at Edzna, about 25 mi/40 km southeast of town, to see the impressive Temple of Five Stories and other structures. Also in the area are the newly opened ruins in the Rio Bec area and at Calakmul. 100 mi/160 km southwest of Merida.

CANCUN

Cancún is one of the most important tourist complexes in Mexico and the world. Its superb location, shaped like an island, its year-round mild climate, and its gorgeous, warm, sandy white beaches washed by the Caribbean sea are ideal for water sports.

The waters of the bay sheltered by Isla Mujeres are calm and perfect for surfing, sailing, underwater diving and boat trips; those facing the open surf have stronger currents but are also suitable for fishing and snorkeling.

Cancún has a first rate tourist infrastructure and services. The most famous hotel chains in the world have combined luxury and comfort with hospitality and all of them offer access to tennis courts and relaxing spas.

Nightlife in Cancún’s hotel zone is extremely varied. You will find some of the largest discotheques in the world and restaurants with some of the world’s most famous chefs as well as fast-food outlets. If you are looking for a calmer atmosphere, there are jazz or piano bars, as well as those with traditional mariachi music.

The numerous marinas facilitate this type of activities in both the bay and Laguna Nichupté where we recommend you try kayaking.

Cancún has fascinating Mayan remains, as well as a museum displaying pieces from this culture. Its excellent overland and air links will whisk you to some of the most impressive places in the Mayan World in both Quintana Roo and neighboring Yucatán.

However, Cancún also has plazas and malls carrying everything from handicrafts from all over the country to an impressive array of imported goods.

CHICHEN ITZA

The ruins in this large, impressive archaeological area date from 1500 BC. The structures on the site vary greatly, relating to ritual, religion, royalty and recreation. The older parts of the site are from the Classic Maya era. Later additions are believed to be influenced by the more warlike Toltecs, who are thought to have conquered Chichen Itza. The stone carvings, even on walls, are very well preserved, and there?s color left on some of the art that?s been shaded from the sun. Look for chacmools, statues that depict the rain god reclining on its back with its legs drawn up and its hands holding a bowl on its belly: It?s thought that human hearts were placed in the bowl during sacrifice ceremonies.

The most dramatic structure is the 75-ft-/20-m-tall pyramid-shaped Temple of Kukulkan, or El Castillom (you may recognize it from pictures in tourist brochures or books). Like many Maya structures, it was built to carry out precise astronomical and religious functions. There are 91 steps on each of four sides, so that the total number of steps (counting the uppermost platform) equals 365—the number of days in the solar year. Between noon and 5 pm during the spring and fall equinoxes, the shadow cast by the edge of the pyramid falls precisely along the balustrade, making the design of a giant serpent, whose head is a large stone sculpture at the base of steps.

The steep climb to the top is a dizzying experience (we saw some people going up and down on all fours), but the experience shouldn?t be missed: There are great views of the city and the surrounding jungle, and you can walk through a stone temple building on top. Back at ground level, you can sometimes go inside the pyramid (it is open only for limited periods). The interior contains a smaller and older temple, a chacmool and a red jaguar throne.

Other buildings include the Temple of the Warriors (rising from a forest of stone columns); the Ball Court, the largest and best-preserved of its kind (where losers lost big—death was an integral part of sports); Cenote Sagrado, or ?Sacred Well? (a deep pool of murky water that was the site of human-sacrifice ceremonies); the Platform of the Jaguars and Eagles; and the Nunnery. El Caracol, a round building with slits in the tower, was used by the Maya as an astronomical observatory and for religious ceremonies.

Although it covers a vast area, with hundreds of structures still unexcavated, Chichen Itza nevertheless gets very crowded with tourists, especially 11 am-3 pm. Plan a minimum of four hours. (You may want to stay for the good sound-and-light show in the evening.) We recommend that you overnight at one of the nearby hotels or in the colonial town of Valladolid, which is less than an hour away. If you stay close by, you can get an early start before the heat and other travelers become oppressive. Your best bets are hotels inside the Archaeological Zone—Hacienda Chichen, MayaLand and Villas Arqueologicas—or the charming, family-run Dolores Alba hotel just outside the Zone.

Most people get to Chichen Itza by rented car or on a tour from either Merida, to the west on the Yucatan Peninsula, or Cancun. The area can be reached by air from Cancun and Cozumel on Aerocaribe, and there are also charter air tours from both resort areas that usually include the plane ride and a guide. 75 mi/120 km southeast of Merida and 125 mi/200 km west of Cancun.

CHIHUAHUA

Chihuahua (pop. 670,000) is interesting primarily for the surrounding desert scenery and the city's historical importance—it played a major role in the Mexican Revolution. Pancho Villa used Chihuahua as a base of operations, and the mansion that served as his home and headquarters has been converted into the Museo de la Revolucion Mexicana. It contains the bullet-riddled car in which Villa was assassinated in 1923, as well as military artifacts, historical photographs and other items.

The Quinta Gameros Museum houses excellent art-nouveau furnishings. Also be sure to see the cathedral and its collection of religious paintings. Father Hidalgo, father of Mexican independence, was executed in Chihuahua. The dungeon he was kept in is beneath the post office. Chihuahua is where many people begin the Copper Canyon train trip. 235 mi/375 km south of El Paso, Texas.

COBA

One of the ancient archaeological sites on the Yucatan Peninsula, Coba was once the commercial hub of the Maya empire. The pyramids and temples—among the tallest in the Yucatan—are still being excavated, and many of the ruins are still covered by jungle. Coba may yield a vast array of wonders: It's a large site, occupying 31 sq mi/50 sq km of territory, and is crisscrossed with limestone-paved roads. At present it's far less developed than places like Chichen Itza, but several ruins can be visited. The highlight is the pyramid Nohoch Mul. Take binoculars and you might be able to spot wild parrots flying over the ruins. Do steer clear of Coba in July and August, however—no sea breezes reach it then, and temperatures can hover around 100 F/38 C. 75 mi/120 km southwest of Cancun.

COPPER CANYON

A system of very deep canyons (deeper than the Grand Canyon in the U.S.), Copper Canyon is carved into the rugged Sierra Madre Occidental mountains in northwestern Mexico. Although the area (also known as Sierra Tarahumara) can be reached by bus or car, the best way to see it is via the Chihuahua al Pacifico Railroad, a truly spectacular train journey. If you take the train east to west, the route begins in the desert (at Chihuahua), cuts through the mountains and ends up at the sea. The train not only passes through amazing scenery, but also stops at small mountain towns where you can overnight to get a better look at the mountains and the canyon. (If you go straight through, the trip takes one long day.) It's possible to descend into the steep canyons, but you'll have to arrange a hike or other transportation (bus or car).

A journey through the canyon can be done independently or on a tour, but we highly recommend a tour. Tours usually incorporate stays at hotels along the way and may also provide opportunities for hiking, car tours, horseback riding and rafting.

Most rail itineraries follow this basic route: The train leaves Chihuahua very early in the morning and the first stopover is at Creel, where you can take hikes or a horseback ride to several destinations, including a local mission school and some hot springs. From Creel you can also travel to the town of Batopilas, which lies at the bottom of one of the canyons at the end of an incredibly steep and unpaved road (plan on at least five hours' driving in each direction). You can usually line up a driver in Creel's main square to take you there.

The next day's train takes you to Divisadero, where you'll get some of the best views of the canyon. Several upscale rim-side hotels are in the tiny town if you decide to overnight there. Or you can continue on to Bahuichivo (about an hour's ride south of Divisadero) and transfer to the Mission Hotel in Cerocahui.

The final ride on the rails is to Los Mochis, near the Gulf of California. The gulf is an hour away, at Topolobampo, which has beautiful beaches but is not really prepared to offer sanctuary to tourists. (From Los Mochis, many people go on to Mazatlan or Puerto Vallarta.)

You can also start the trip from the Los Mochis end, where the train leaves just as early in the morning. In either direction, reservations are essential, so make them well in advance. Copper Canyon lies about 300 mi/485 km southwest of El Paso, Texas.

COZUMEL

The beautiful island of Cozumel, the largest inhabited island in Mexico, is a paradise for divers from all over the world. The island is surrounded by more than 25 reef formations where divers of all ages and skills can enter into a completely fascinating and different world: endless coral inhabited by immense shoals of colorful fish. The possibilities are interminable for both beginners and experts.

East of the Yucatán Peninsula, on top of the age-old structures of the Mayan coral reef, the second largest in the world, stands the Island of Cozumel, the largest inhabited island in Mexico. Its name, derived from the word Cuzamil, meaning “island of swallows” in Maya, conjures up memories of its pre-Hispanic origin, the conquest of America and the pirates and buccaneers that thronged its seas.

The Island of Cozumel measures 48 km from north to south but only 16 from east to west. On either side of the island, beaches form a long, white sandy coast. Gentle waves and transparent waters wash the western side of the island, while huge waves crash against the eastern side. Its flora and fauna have a number of unusual features and include certain endemic species, such as the dwarf raccoon and the Cozumel wren. Cozumel’s greatest wealth, however, lies underwater.

Before the arrival of the conquistadors, the island was a major commercial and ceremonial center. During the colonial era, it was largely uninhabited, except for sporadic stays by pirates and turtle hunters. In the mid-19th century, groups of settlers arrived from the Yucatán Peninsula, fleeing the War of the Castes. The following years saw the development of the chicle extraction business on the mainland and Cozumel became a center for collecting and subsequently exporting this gum. Jacques Cousteau’s declarations in 1960 about the richness of the coral reef surrounding the island made underwater enthusiasts aware of Cozumel’s existence.

Cozumel is encircled by over 25 reef formations, where divers of all ages and levels can explore a fascinating world: endless colonies of corals inhabited by enormous shoals of brightly colored fish. The possibilities are infinite, for novice and expert divers alike.

San Miguel de Cozumel, the capital of the island, is a peaceful old village, with all the charm of the Mexican Caribbean. The quality of its gastronomy, based on its excellent seafood, is legendary throughout the region. Its provincial air does not make it any less comfortable or modern. Its days are sunny and full of unforgettable experiences, while its nights are ideal for those who enjoy discotheques and bars. A wide range of accommodation is available, from deluxe hotels, to small, inexpensive hostels.

CUERNAVACA

Known as the City of Eternal Spring, Cuernavaca is just a short drive south of Mexico City. It is 2,000 ft/610 m lower than the capital and enjoys a wonderful climate where people go to relax, enjoy the sunshine and get out of Mexico City's smog. (It was the setting for Malcolm Lowry's novel Under the Volcano.) There are frequent bus connections to and from Mexico City, and you get beautiful views of the valley of Mexico and the volcanoes along the way. Resort hotels abound in Cuernavaca, the most exceptional being Las Mananitas, with its beautiful garden containing large Zuniga sculptures, peacocks and flamingos.

In the Centro (downtown), look for the Palacio de Cortes (Palace of Cortes), a medieval fortress directly in front of the zocalo, or Plaza de Armas. (The conqueror of Mexico went to Cuernavaca for R&R just as today's Mexico City residents do.) The Palacio's museum has displays of the history of Mexico, plus murals by Diego Rivera. Also worthwhile are the Jardines de Borda (Borda Gardens), Ave. Morelos Centro 103. Be sure to walk around the main cathedral downtown, which was built in 1529. It's at Avenida Morelos, at the corner with Hidalgo (directly in front of Borda Gardens). Behind the cathedral is the Brady Museum, an unusual home housing antiques and art objects collected by Robert Brady, who lived in the house until his death in 1986. 50 mi/80 km south of Mexico City.

ENSENADA

The college guy at the next table in Hussong's Cantina is tossing back tequila shots followed by beer. Nearby, three margarita sippers—on their third round—are trying to sing along with the mariachis. Over in the corner a local in a cowboy hat, known as the lasso man, is doing rope tricks ("tipping is permitted," he suggests).

We've heard it said that Ensenada is a city built around a bar. While that's not precisely true, Hussong's has enticed revelers to Ensenada since 1892—a date that's easy to believe once you see the legendary cantina's tumbledown clapboard exterior and scarred wooden floors. And it's true that most tourist dollars are spent by U.S. party goers who drive south or arrive on cruise ships out of Southern California. Another attraction is the low-key Mexican flavor of its reasonably priced restaurants, shops and hotels—all only 65 mi/104 km south of the U.S. border.

Visitors soon find, however, that Ensenada isn't as scenic as some other Mexican resorts: The closest decent beach is a 15-minute drive away, and sporadic development in response to tourism has created a mishmash of shopping plazas, some of which remain half empty.

Still, the lack of palm-lined coves and colonial architecture hasn't kept people away. You can visit a cantina or two and stroll through the lively waterfront fish market, where the makings of Ensenada's exceptional seafood meals are found. Be sure to stroll through the main shopping district, Avenida Lopez Mateos, which has been spruced up with new sidewalks, refurbished storefronts and new, ornate streetlamps. You can also enjoy good wine from the beautiful Guadalupe Valley outside the city.

Stroll six blocks inland from Avenida Lopez Mateos on Avenida Miramar to tour the Santo Tomas Winery—Baja California's oldest. It's open for tours Monday-Saturday at 11 am, 1 pm and 3 pm; Sunday at 11 am and 1 pm. US$2. Ave. Miramar 666. Phone 174-0836.

Across Avenida Miramar from the winery is La Esquina de Bodegas, a wine shop, cafe and folk-art gallery located in one of the winery's renovated buildings—a good place to pick up a bottle of the local wine.

Ensenada's other wineries are located outside town.

We urge you to stop at the Riviera del Pacifico, a handsome white structure built in the 1930s as a gambling palace. The building is the only architectural site in the city worth making a special effort to visit, and it is beautiful. Built by Mexican and U.S. investors, the complex still evokes the Prohibition era, when Hollywood stars flocked to the gambling dens of Baja. Today, the white stucco building topped with red tile is the city's civic and cultural center, housing meeting rooms, a small museum and a library. You may want to stroll around inside to admire the old murals, painted ceilings and tilework—artifacts of Ensenada's most glamorous era. Daily 9:30 am-2 pm and 3-5 pm. Boulevard Costero at Avenida Riviera. Phone 176-4233.

For a good view of the city and the bay, take a taxi to El Mirador, the scenic viewpoint on Chapultepec Hill. You might also want to see a little of the beautiful coastline north and south of the city. La Bufadora, a blowhole in the cliffs of Punta Banda, is a 30-minute ride south, past several miles of olive groves. Pay attention to where you stand there—the water pounding into the rock spouts up with a loud swoosh, drenching nearby onlookers with a powerful spray.

Heading south on the sidewalk malecon beside the bay (parallel to Boulevard Costero), you'll pass through the Window to the Sea Park, with its enormous Mexican flag fluttering in the sea breeze. The unobstructed view of the bay is especially gorgeous; on clear days you should be able to see Punta Banda, a long point jutting into the water to the south. The malecon also passes by Plaza Civica, which has sculptures of Mexican heroes Benito Juarez, Miguel Hidalgo and Venustiano Carranza (locals call it Three Heads Park).

Ensenada has no beaches within the city limits. The waterfront is taken up by commerce, and the sand is coarse and dirty. Don't even think of swimming there—the water gleams with oil slicks. The best beaches are north and south of town, well out of walking distance. If you're determined to swim and sunbathe, hire a taxi to take you south to Estero Beach, which is good for swimming and bodysurfing. The trip to Estero Beach takes 15 minutes and costs about US$10.

Another beach to consider—if you have transportation—is Rosarito Beach, about 45 minutes north of Ensenada. Once a small seaside village, it's grown into a city of more than 100,000 residents. The town has one of the best beaches in the area, about 5 mi/8 km long, and dozens of hotels. The highlight is the Rosarito Beach Hotel, built in the same era as the Riviera del Pacifico in Ensenada. (You can arrange for horseback riding in front of the hotel.) The surf is too rough for water sports—be sure to check out the waves before you dive in. You have several dining choices, including the hotel's cavernous dining room and the Beachcomber Bar overlooking the beach. You could easily spend the entire day at Rosarito Beach.

GUADALAJARA

The former capital of New Galicia rises up majestically over the Valle de Atemajac. Guadalajara represents the essence of Mexicanness: traditional, conservative ideas imbued with the spirit of its nearly 500 years of history expressed in a contemporary, cosmopolitan city. The capital of the state of Jalisco, with the second largest population in Mexico, is the place of residence of an industrious, friendly people that have striven to build one of the most attractive, comfortable and richest cities in Latin America.

Guadalajara, set in a fertile valley in the foothills of the Sierra Madre Occidental enjoys an exceptional year-round climate together with the benefits of one of the country’s largest hydrological networks. The wealth of this city, which has always played a key role in Mexican history, is evident in the strength of its manufacturing industry, which mainly produces consumer goods, and its intense cultural life.

The boost that this city received with the mandate of Nuño Beltrán de Guzmán for its foundation on January 5 1532 gave it an edge that has lasted until the present. It was raised to the status of a city as early as 1542. The University of Guadalajara and the first printing press were both founded in 1792, a fact that would mark the course of science and culture in the Jalisco capital. A few years later, in 1805, construction began on what is now the Hospicio Cabañas. The War of Independence, the ups and downs of the Reform, the revolutionary outburst of 1910 and the Cristero rebellion were passionately experienced by this city.

The Guadalajara of today, together with three other municipalities that warrant special mention in themselves –Zapopan, Tlaquepaque and Tonalá, is a large city with enormous avenues, impressive monuments, dozens of squares overflowing with trees and plants, colorful markets, crowded malls and a continuous sense of activity reflected in the dozens of people strolling up and down the wide pavements and pedestrian precincts. At every step, there is a place to stop and enjoy this city which appears to have been drawn by hand.

Unlike other cities with more specific features, Guadalajara is an urban complex that offers visitors a variety of options for their enjoyment. It boasts everything from museums that reflect Mexico’s diversity; districts that have managed to preserve the flavor of tradition; monuments and buildings that lend each part of the city its distinctive atmosphere; districts that house several nationalities, linked by the growth of the city to parks that encourage contact with nature, in short, all the benefits and comforts of a modern, elegant, functional city.

GUANAJUATO

Founded in 1548, Guanajuato was one of the first strongholds of Spanish culture in Mexico. Today, it's a beautiful colonial-style state capital and university town. Revenue from silver mining financed its superb architecture, which has a distinct Spanish flavor. Several silver mines lie nearby, including the Valenciana mine. The Valenciana church and the former home and gardens of the count of Valenciana are also worth seeing. (His home is now a restaurant and home-furnishings store.) Museums in the town include the birthplace of Diego Rivera (it displays works by him and Frida Kahlo, as well as excellent temporary exhibits), the Museo del Pueblo and the Museo Iconografico Don Quixote (everything you ever wanted to know about Miguel Cervantes and his famous character). Also worth some time is the Alhondiga de Granaditas, a massive grain-storage facility that is now a state-funded history museum.

The center of town is built at the bottom of a steep canyon, so the streets are winding and best explored on foot. Be sure to see Callejon del Beso (Street of the Kiss), which is said to be so narrow that two people can kiss by leaning out the windows of facing buildings. The Subterraneo, an underground street that replaced an old sewer system, runs beneath the city.

The Cervantes Festival, held the first two weeks in October, features dance, theater, opera and musical groups from all over the world (accommodations should be reserved far in advance). 220 mi/350 km northwest of Mexico City.

GUERRERO NEGRO

Usually, this town in Baja California is visited for only one reason—it's near Parque Natural de Balena Gris (Gray Whale National Park). From November through March, gray whales breed near the shores of Scammon's Lagoon. Take binoculars if you go there, and pay the small fee for one of the boat tours—it's worth it to get out closer to the whales.

Another destination in the area is San Ignacio (a small oasis town 90 mi/145 km to the southeast) and the nearby San Ignacio Lagoon, home of the "friendly whales." For whatever reason, many of the whales there seem better disposed toward humans and some will even swim close enough to be petted. Puerto San Carlos on Magdalena Bay (farther south on the peninsula) is another great spot for whale watching. Local tours are available. There are also cave paintings nearby, accessible only on horseback. 375 mi/600 km south of San Diego, California.

HUATULCO

Don't let the colonial-style architecture fool you—most of Huatulco is just slightly more than a decade old. The brainchild of Mexico's tourism agency, the country's newest resort along the Pacific coast hopes to balance tourism and environmental preservation. About 70% of Huatulco (pronounced wah-TOOL-koh) has been set aside as an ecological reserve, and all new construction adheres to strict codes: no buildings taller than six stories and plenty of open space and natural vegetation in between.

The result, so far, is impressive. No, you're not going to find ancient ruins there, but you won't be overwhelmed with glitzy high-rises and rowdy crowds either. What you'll discover in the Bahias de Huatulco are nine gorgeous bays and 36 golden-sand beaches, many of which are strewn with craggy boulders and ringed by pristine coral reefs.

It's not surprising, then, that cruise ships have begun stopping at Huatulco as part of their sailings along the Mexican Riviera. Myriad water sports as well as eco-adventures to nearby coffee plantations and dense tropical forests mean there's something for most visitors to do—in addition to simply relaxing in deluxe seclusion.

Huatulco doesn't offer much in the way of historical landmarks—most of the buildings date back to the mid 1980s. But if you're not in a rush to get to the beach, you could easily spend a few hours exploring the villages that make up the resort area.

Santa Cruz is the original fishing village. You can stroll around its shady plaza and visit the Mercado de Artesanias for pottery, silver and leather goods. The busy marina is the departure point for small boat trips to nearby bays and beaches.

About a mile inland from Santa Cruz (a brief taxi ride) is La Crucecita, Huatulco's "downtown." Everything is new, though it looks like an old Spanish-colonial village. The town square, Plaza Principal, is a pleasant place to stroll and to people-watch—just find a shady stone bench or outdoor cafe. Several shops specializing in Oaxacan crafts are nearby, as are restaurants and bars that tend to liven up at night. (Most of the resort employees and construction workers live in or near La Crucecita.) Take time to visit the Lady of Guadalupe Church on the plaza. A huge painting of the Virgin of Guadalupe covers the entire cupola of the church. (The painting has been nominated for the Guinness Book of World Records because of its size.) The main luxury hotel district, Tangolunda, is 3 mi/5 km east of Santa Cruz.

Huatulco has a lot to offer nature lovers. Coral reefs surround its nine bays, making the snorkeling and scuba diving excellent. Its jungled countryside affords numerous opportunities for land exploration as well. Bird-watchers will want to visit the small lagoon behind the beach at Bahia Cacaluta, which attracts a wide variety of waterfowl and other birds.

If you'd rather hike into the mountains, several companies offer hiking tours to areas inaccessible to autos. You can also take an all-terrain vehicle (ATV) tour into the jungle, where you'll see tropical vegetation and maybe even iguanas, armadillos and white-tailed deer. A three-hour ATV tour costs about US$60 for two people.

Adventuras Piraguas, on Calle Flamboyan in La Crucecita, offers three levels of trips on the Copalita River—floating, intermediate and whitewater—in rafts, canoes or kayaks. A day-long trip costs about US$90 (half day US$50), including transportation. The season runs July-February, with the best time being September-November (the rainy season). Phone 587-1333.

If you're more interested in agriculture, you can learn how coffee beans are harvested and processed at one of the several coffee plantations in the Pluma Hidalgo area. A half-day tour costs about US$60. Be aware that the road up to the plantation is very winding, but it offers wonderful views of the lush, mountainous terrain and can be combined with a side trip to waterfalls. Servitours in Santa Cruz can arrange a tour for you. Phone 587-1211.

The biggest dilemma you'll face in Huatulco is: Which beach? With 36 to choose from in nine different bays, it's no easy decision. The good news is that almost all of them are clean and have golden sand and clear water. And some are accessible only by boat. The surf ranges from calm to dangerously strong.

If you don't feel like venturing far, you can relax at the small beach near the harbor in Santa Cruz. The water is calm and clean, but the beach is not as picturesque as some of the others. La Entrega, another beach close to the harbor, is popular with beginning snorkelers because of its calm water, coral reefs and marine life. As a result, the beach can get crowded. Several seafood palapas line the shore, convenient for a lunch break (snorkeling equipment and jet skis are available at some of them).

Bahia Cacaluta isn't as crowded as La Entrega, and it offers good snorkeling and scuba diving around a small island. Be aware that visibility isn't as good during the rainy season and that there can be an undertow at times. Behind the beach is a lagoon, where you can enjoy bird watching. Both La Entrega and Cacaluta can be reached by taxi or lancha, small boat. (Taxi fare should be less than US$5; you'll have to negotiate a price for the boat ride.)

La India, surrounded by a large coral reef in Bahia Chachagula, is accessible only by lancha, but it is considered by many to be Huatulco's most beautiful beach. (It's usually visited as part of a bay-hopping tour.)

The largest bay in Huatulco, Tangolunda is also home to the deluxe hotel district. But all beaches are federal property, so anyone can swim there. Be aware that Tangolunda has pounding surf—it can sound soothing while you're lying on your towel, but it's exhausting if you're in the water. If the water is calm enough for snorkeling, don't miss Montosa Island—it has a volcanic rock bottom. (Accessible only by lancha, prices vary.)

Organo and Maguey beaches both offer good snorkeling and scuba diving—the water is clean and calm. There's a lot of vegetation in this area. Maguey has restaurants, but it's less crowded than La Entrega. Organo's beach is undeveloped—there are no restaurants or bars. If you're looking for peace and quiet, this is a good place. Both beaches can be reached by lancha for about US$25.

San Agustin has calm surf, which makes it an excellent swimming beach. It also has the area's largest coral reefs and the remains of a sunken ship, which means it's ideal for snorkelers and scuba divers. However, it's the farthest bay from Santa Cruz (about 30 minutes by car over a very bumpy dirt road), so you may want to limit your time in San Agustin if you intend to see much else in Huatulco. Visits there are usually included in catamaran tours of area bays.

Be aware that on some beaches you may be approached by vendors selling baskets, jewelry and handmade hammocks. (Bargaining is expected, and you can usually get a better deal on hammocks from a vendor than you can get in one of the stores—just make sure you want a hammock.) If you don't wish to shop while sunning, a polite "no thank you" is usually enough to discourage vendors.

ISLA MUJERES

Although it has been discovered by tourists, this sleepy island and fishing village has managed to retain its tranquil atmosphere. Long a haven for divers, anglers, escapists and adventurers, the small (5 mi/8 km long by 0.5 mi/0.8 km wide) island lies 8 mi/13 km off the northeastern tip of the Yucatan Peninsula. It can be reached by small ferry for a day of snorkeling—outlying coral reefs are teeming with fish—or explored by rented bicycle, motor scooter or golf cart as its own destination.

Beautiful, white-sand beaches on the northern and western sides of the island are popular hangouts for swimmers and sunbathers, who gather under bright umbrellas. The beaches are lined with palm-thatch restaurants and rental places offering water toys, kayaks and snorkeling gear. The town center is just four blocks by six blocks and boasts a few excellent folk-art boutiques selling high-quality pottery, wood carvings and weavings that surpass those in nearby Cancun. Unlike Cancun, it is really quiet at night—apart from seasonal discos, a few music bars and the rare music festival.

Those who snorkel (but don't dive) will probably enjoy Garrafon underwater park, at the south end of the island, where several varieties of brightly colored fish swim along a small coral reef. Unfortunately, snorkelers often outnumber sea life. The entrance fee includes use of the pool, sea platforms, kayaks and palapas (thatch-roof huts). Playa Garrafon de Castilla features a snorkling area and a pen where you can swim with nurse sharks. Experienced divers may enjoy "The Cave of the Sleeping Sharks," a cave 65 ft/20 m below the surface where the mixture of salt and fresh water makes resident nurse sharks groggy and slow. (Go at your own risk—no wild animal's behavior is 100% predictable.)

No one, however, can swim with the sea turtles, which are cared for by marine biologists at the Isla Mujeres Turtle Farm. Isla Mujeres is a hatching ground for the turtles, who come ashore to lay eggs every year May-September. The eggs are kept safe from predators, and newly hatched turtles are placed in tanks until they are released into the sea by local schoolchildren. 3 mi/5 km north of Cancun.

IXTAPA/ZIHUATANEJO

This set of twin cities is anything but identical. If your idea of vacation heaven is a round of golf on a lush, green course, followed by a leisurely lunch of lobster bisque and, perhaps, champagne, Ixtapa is calling your name. But if you'd rather poke through an outdoor Mexican market and then amble over to the beach where fishermen are mending their nets, it's as easy as going 4 mi/7 km down the coast to Zihuatanejo. The lobster there might be in your tacos (washed down with plenty of cold cerveza).

Sightseeing in Ixtapa is limited to admiring the beaches and tropical flowers. (It's primarily a corridor of luxury beach hotels surrounded by lush foliage.) Zihuatanejo, on the other hand, is full of charming neighborhoods and side streets that are a treat to explore. If you stroll along Zihua's Paseo del Pescador, consider stopping at the Museo Arqueologico (between Guerrero and Juarez). It has a permanent display of artifacts and ceramic figurines from the area's pre-Hispanic cultures. The only notable feature downtown is a church, Iglesia de la Virgen de Guadalupe.

Isla Ixtapa is a bird-watcher's haven, home to many species. To get there, you can take a skiff from the Zihuatanejo pier or from Playa Linda.

Ixtapa's broad beaches, with their panoramic views, are great for strolling and enjoying big waves. The smaller beaches of Zihua have gentle waves that softly lap the sand.

The main Ixtapa beach, Playa del Palmar, is a 2-mi/3-km stretch of white sand fronted by big hotels. Our favorite beaches are small but absolutely lovely and lie just west of the town: Playa San Juan, Playa Casa Blanca and Playa Cuatas. A little farther up the coast, Playa Linda offers genuine peace away from the crowds. The wonderful beaches of Isla Ixtapa can be reached by skiffs stationed at Playa Linda (US$3.50 round trip) or Zihuatanejo's pier (US$11 round trip).

The pretty centerpiece of Zihuatanejo Bay is Playa la Ropa, named for clothing that drifted ashore long ago from a shipwrecked vessel. (It's a short taxi ride there, or a 30-minute walk.) Closer to town, the smaller Playa la Madera (wood beach) gets its name because local wood was once exported from it. The beach is about a 10-minute walk south of town, along a footpath carved into the rocks that begins just beyond the museum.

Playa las Gatas resembles a tropical lagoon—its hewn-stone breakwater keeps waves to a minimum. Located south along the far end of Zihuatanejo Bay, Playa las Gatas can be reached by water, via skiffs that run there regularly from the Zihuatanejo pier. A round-trip ticket costs about US$3.50.

LA PAZ

La Paz (pop. 200,000), the capital of Baja California Sur, lies near the southeastern tip of the peninsula. Although it's a port city with only adequate beaches, it does have great diving and snorkeling and some of the best sportfishing on the peninsula. La Paz also hosts a lively (and popular) Carnaval celebration each year just before Ash Wednesday (reserve a hotel far in advance if you plan to see it). While in town, visit the cathedral, the Museum of Anthropology and the malecon, a waterfront sidewalk bordering playgrounds and restaurants on the sand.

La Paz is also the terminus of two ferries, from Mazatlan and Topolobambo, and the departure point for trips to Espiritu Santo Island. We recommend going there to explore the wilderness and the many caves along the beaches that were once used by Indians. The island is also a great place for snorkeling, kayaking and camping. At the sea pinnacles called El Bajo, you can scuba dive with hundreds of seemingly docile hammerhead sharks. (This is not a recommendation—only experienced divers should attempt it, and then at their own risk.) Back on the Baja Peninsula, some of the finest less-developed beaches in Mexico lie to the northeast of La Paz, around Pichilingue—Balandra, Tecolote and Coyote (you need a car to get to them, and only Tecolote has restaurants and watersport equipment rentals). 725 mi/1,165 km south of San Diego, California.

LOS CABOS

When nature blends sky blue with navy blue, sculptures from the bottom of the sea come up to observe the spectacle and stay there for centuries, admiring the magnificent scenery. Los Cabos keeps watch over this gorgeous paradise that does everything in its power to help visitors enjoy the wonders of nature. The most popular stretch of the nearly 33 km. tourist and nautical corridor lies between Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo, an area regarded as one of the country’s major tourist complexes.

Los Cabos offers first-rate tourist service, including top quality hotels and condominiums, superb golf courses, marinas and restaurants. Wonderful facilities are available for fishing, swimming and sailing. Playa Chileno is ideal for diving, while the area between Cabo San Lucas and Cabo Pulmo is perfect for surfing.

In addition to being one of the most beautiful beach destinations in the country, Los Cabos is renowned for its sports fishing, since the junction between the Sea of Cortés and the Pacific Ocean produces an abundance of fish such as grouper, dorado, amberjack, marlin and sailfish, among others. Finally, you can’t leave without seeing the wonderful, unusually shaped Punta Balandra, one of Los Cabos’ distinctive landmarks.

Winter attractions including watching the whales reach the waters of the Pacific from the western beaches of Cabo San Lucas. Nature enthusiasts will enjoy Sierra de la Laguna, a mountain range rising up in the north of the Los Cabos region, which is home to a vast number endemic species of flora and fauna.

Los Cabos is located just 152 km outside of La Paz, the capital of the state of Baja California Sur; take Highway 1 which joins up with Highway 19. You can also reach Los Cabos via Pichilingue on two ferries from Mazatlán and Topolobampo, or fly in from the La Paz International Airport and continue your journey along the highway.

MANZANILLO

On the Pacific coast, halfway between the U.S. and Guatemala, Manzanillo (pop. 124,000) is very slow in developing, which is part of its charm. It also can be unbearably hot in the summer. A resort popular with Mexicans, it's packed on weekends and holidays. The area encompasses two large bays, Manzanillo Bay to the south and Santiago Bay to the north, separated by the Santiago Peninsula, where many hotels are located. The town is on the south end of Manzanillo Bay, and there's not much to see there. The wide beaches on the bays are the big attractions. Deep-sea fishing is excellent November-May.

Side trips may be made to the largely undiscovered coast to the south and to Barra de Navidad, an hour's drive north of Manzanillo, which has good surfing beaches and a lagoon (and a huge resort). 130 mi/210 km south of Guadalajara.

MAZATLAN

Mazatlán always has surprises in store. Its multiple, complex nature make boredom impossible. Wandering through the city and its historic center, sunbathing on its magnificent beaches, traveling to the islands using every imaginable form of transport, and gazing at the horizon from hills such as El Faro and El Cerro de la Nevería, enjoying one of the most elaborate regional seafood cuisines, participating in the carnival, sailing or sport fishing are some of the things that have made Mazatlán famous the world over.

Just south of the Tropic of Cancer, Mazatlán is the most important port on Mexico’s Pacific Coast. Full of contrasts, this city is one of the country’s oldest tourist resorts and the site of one of the world’s three major carnivals, comparable only to those in New Orleans and Rio de Janeiro. But that’s not all. Mazatlán is an attractive, hospitable city that has everything: excellent cuisine, extensive beaches with state-of-the-art water sports facilities and an unusual degree of cultural and architectural richness for a coastal resort.

The region now occupied by Mazatlán has been populated since long before the Spanish conquest. Nuño Beltrán and Francisco de Ibarra subdued the local indigenous groups and then divided up the vast plots of land on the coast between themselves. The Spaniards called it Mazatlán Island, in honor of the three islands facing the bay. During the colonial era, it was a major port from which ships laden with gold set off for Spain on long journeys round Cape Horn. The early 19th century saw the arrival of Germans, Italians and North Americans that gave the city a cosmopolitan spirit that it has preserved to this day. Despite being overrun by pirates, gold prospectors and invaders, Mazatlán managed to retain both its pride and its hospitality.

Mazatlán, located in the south of the state of Sinaloa, on the Pacific Coast, is a city with a 17 km shoreline under a brilliant sun, with a rainy season in summer followed by a long dry period. Its marine fauna and sea birds make Mazatlán ideal for nature lovers. The islands facing the wide bay and Crestón Island, the site of the world’s highest lighthouse (157m above sea level) are two of Mazatlán’s distinctive symbols, together with its spectacular sunsets.

MERIDA

The capital of the Yucatan, Merida (pop. 700,000) is a charming colonial city in a tropical locale and one of the conquistadores' first strongholds in New Spain. Having been built over a Maya settlement beginning in 1542, Merida retains a strong Maya influence even today: Many people still speak the language, and women dress in white huipiles, long sacklike dresses with lacy hems and elaborate embroidery.

The city has good shopping, fine restaurants and hotels, and a couple of nice squares and markets, as well as friendly people. There are three main reasons to visit Merida: First, to try tasty Yucatecan dishes such as huevos motulenos (fried eggs on crisp tortillas, served with peas, ham and black-bean paste) and cochinita pibil (pork seasoned with the Yucatecan spice achiote, wrapped in banana leaves and cooked overnight in an open-pit barbecue). Second, to use it as a base for touring Uxmal, Chichen Itza and other Maya ruins. And third, to take part in "Sundays in Merida," when the streets of the old city are closed to traffic, and the downtown plaza fills with food booths and native craftspeople selling their wares at excellent prices (look for hammocks, baskets, pottery and guayaberas).

Other Merida sights include the Cathedral de Saint Idelfonso (one of the oldest in North America and graced with grand domes and gorgeous rose windows), the Governor's Palace, the Church of Jesus, several plazas (where free evening concerts often take place) and the Anthropology and History Museum (with impressive Maya artifacts, paintings and jade carvings).

Bird-watchers should make the trip to Celestun (60 mi/100 km west of Merida), where there's a biosphere reserve that's home to more than 300 species of birds. A local estuary is one of only a handful of breeding grounds for pink flamingos. Visit September-April to see the spectacle of thousands of flamingos taking flight over the water. It's best to rent a boat early in the morning. Merida has a small airport with daily flights from Mexico City, Cancun and other cities. 720 mi/1,160 km east of Mexico City.

MEXICO CITY

Mexico City, the City of Palaces, the ancient capital of the Mexica empire and the jewel in New Spanish Viceroys’ crown, is today one of the biggest, most complex and most beautiful cities in the world. The mere size of the urban spread makes it a city among cities.

Mexico City is a modern, cosmopolitan city situated in an old lake basin that is surrounded by volcanic mountains. The different cultures that inhabited the city during the course of the centuries left an interesting architectural legacy that comprises many different styles. Firstly, there are the pre Hispanic remains that tell of the greatness of the civilizations that settled on this land before the arrival of the Spaniards. Mexican art can be seen on the ruins of the Templo Mayor (The Great Temple), the site where the monolith of the goddess Coyolxauqui was found.

The architects that arrived from Europe during the colonial period applied and shared their knowledge of baroque, neoclassic and other styles of art that were combined with the indigenous styles to create an architecture that is quite unique in all the world. Works such as the Metropolitan Cathedral, palaces, mansions and an endless number of sober, sumptuous churches adorn the central area of the city now called the Historic Center; these extraordinary types of buildings can also be seen in some of the picturesque towns and villages such as Coyoacán, San Ángel, Tlalpan and Xochimilco that used to be the outskirts of the city but have now become incorporated into the built up areas; in spite of this, they still maintain their provincial atmosphere. Later, after Mexico became an independent country, new districts of the city were built in a Frenchified style and in the art deco and colonial Californian styles.

Modernism was characterized by magnificent skyscrapers that sprung up in districts such as Polanco, Anzures, Del Valle and Santa Fe. The advantage of a mega-city such as Mexico City is that it offers the visitor all sorts of entertainment possibilities during the day and at night. Avenues like Avenida Insurgentes are true axis of fun and recreation and has spots that cater to all tastes. Mexican culture in all its manifestations can be admired at the large number of quality museums that can be found in many different parts of the city. These have displays and exhibitions of art and culture ranging from the pre Hispanic (the National Museum of Anthropology) to the Vice Regal (the Franz Mayer Museum) to the modern (the Museum of Modern Art), as well as Mexican traditions as can be seen in the Frida Kahlo Museum.

There are also plenty of possibilities for those who want to leave the city and enjoy nature. You can visit the volcanic mountains in the south of the city or the mountain valleys to the west and enjoy the quesadillas (melted cheese in tortillas) that can be bought at the food stalls located in the shade of the forest trees that form part of the National Parks and Ecological Reserves. To the east, the traveler can admire the snow-capped volcanoes of Popocatepetl and Iztaccíhuatl, just as the Indians, Conquistadors and general population of the city did over the centuries.

MONTERREY

Monterrey (pop. 1,108,000) is the industrial and cultural capital of northern Mexico. In recent years, it has devoted some of its iron and steel profits to beautifying itself—with proud results. Much activity centers in the Gran Plaza—the strikingly renovated downtown area. There, you'll find the cathedral, the Zaragoza Plaza, the excellent Mexican History Museum and the Contemporary Art Museum (works by cutting-edge modern artists from Latin America—don't miss it). Colon Market and the Zona Rosa (a center for shopping and nightlife) are just west of the Gran Plaza. At the Cerveceria Cuauhtemoc complex you can explore the Museo de Monterrey art gallery as well as take a brewery tour. Transportation around the city is easy, thanks to the "Metro" rail system—another point of pride for Regiomontanos, as the residents call themselves.

Nearby Chipinque Mesa commands a great view of the area. Day trips can be made to Cascada Cola de Caballo waterfalls (about 55 mi/90 km northwest); Garcia Caves (30 mi/50 km south), which are reached by cable car from the foot of a mountain; and Huasteca Canyon, an impressive gorge 23 mi/43 km southwest of town. 150 mi/240 km south of Laredo, Texas.

MORELIA

The capital of the state of Michoacan, this scenic town was built by conquistadors in the Spanish style. Declared a national monument, Morelia is well worth visiting to see the architecture (much in pink stone), the cathedral, the State Museum and the Plaza de los Martires. Also visit the Casa de las Artesanias to see many of the local crafts—especially the green pottery—for which this area is known. Homemade candies derived from colonial recipes are another of the town's specialties, and you can sample them in local shops. Make arrangements at the kiosk in the main square to take a free walking tour of the historic central area (English-speaking guides available).

Just south of town is Santa Clara del Cobre (sometimes known as Villa Escalante), famous for ornate handmade copperware. 160 mi/260 km west of Mexico City.

OAXACA

The loveliest state capital in Mexico, Oaxaca (pop. 260,000) has ancient ruins, colonial architecture, distinctive food, one of the country's largest Indian markets and friendly, relaxed people.

Much of the city's tourist activity is centered in the main plaza, or zocalo. Shaded by towering trees and bordered on three sides by outdoor cafes and restaurants, it draws locals and visitors alike.

Oaxaca's central historical district is compact and walkable. A good place to start is Macedonia Alcala, a pedestrian street lined with galleries, restaurants, boutiques and gift shops. Must-see sights include the spectacular Santo Domingo church, five blocks north of the zocalo on Macedonia Alcala. Built between 1575 and 1608, the church is famous for the abundance of gold leaf on its interior walls and dome. The adjacent Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca occupies a building that once served as a convent. Among its notable exhibits are pieces of jewelry from some of the area's ancient tombs. Less dramatic but more important to local worshipers is the Basilica de la Soledad, keeper of the miraculous Virgin of Soledad in her trademark black cape. The church recently underwent an exterior facelift, and its large outdoor courtyard now hosts concerts and fireworks displays on holidays.

Along the tourist walkway, you'll also find the Museum of Contemporary Art. The Tamayo Museum features pre-Columbian pottery and is housed in the mansion of the famous Oaxacan painter Rufino Tamayo. It's located at Morelos 503.

You'll find a riot of color and activity at the two native Indian markets. The Benito Juarez market is a block south of the zocalo on Flores Magon, and the Abastos market, in the southwestern corner of the city, is especially interesting on Saturdays, when Indian farmers from outlying pueblos come into the city to sell their wares. Oaxacan markets have booths of flowers, food items, household goods and handicrafts. Look for embroidered huipil blouses, handwoven tapetes made with natural dyes, and black and green pottery. Another good area to shop is along 20 de Noviembre, a street south of the zocalo that is lined with street vendors and small shops.

Be sure to get out of town and visit the ruins of Monte Alban, set on a hilltop overlooking three agricultural valleys. Only 6 mi/10 km from downtown Oaxaca, this city-state was occupied from about 200 BC to AD 900. Some of the structures are closed to visitors because of earthquake damage in 1999, but the site boasts a nicely preserved ball court.

Mitla, located 27 mi/44 km from the city on Highway 190, consists of five groups of buildings built by the Zapotecs around AD 900 as a burial site and ceremonial center for priests. Its unusual geometric carvings and mosaics are especially impressive. Don't try to see Monte Alban and Mitla on the same day—you'll wear yourself out. You might want to stop at Yagul on your way to or from Mitla, however. Settled by the Zapotecs and later influenced by the Mixtecs, the ancient site built on top of a hill offers magnificent vistas of the Tlacolula valley.

Oaxaca's biggest local festival is the guelaguetza, an extravaganza of folk dances from different regions of the state, held on the last two Mondays in July. Reserve a hotel room well in advance for this. Another big occasion is the Night of the Radishes, a century-old contest in which farmers from surrounding villages create elaborate scenes from the tubers of radishes. On 23 December, everyone gathers in the zocalo to see the intricate carvings.

Allow at least three days for Oaxaca. 315 mi/500 km southeast of Mexico City.

PALENQUE

An impressive collection of Maya ruins dating from the 7th century, Palenque is located in the far southern tip of the country, near the Mexico-Guatemala border. Climb the tall Temple of the Inscriptions and then descend into the impressive, restored crypt of Maya king Pakal. Investigate other ruins to look at carvings and bas-relief. We consider Palenque well worth a visit, but it is extremely hot and humid in the summer. To avoid the worst of it, get an early-morning start. Some pleasant hotels are found in the village if you wish to overnight in the area.

If you have time, travel 60 mi/100 km south to the Agua Azul waterfalls. These turquoise cascades are one of Mexico's natural wonders (just try to ignore the tacky food huts dotting the lower end of the falls). You can swim there, but do so with care—several people have drowned. 300 mi/485 km southwest of Merida.

PARACHO

Famous throughout Mexico for its handcrafted classical guitars, this tiny village makes the majority of all guitars (and violins) sold in the country. The quality of its instruments draws musicians from around the globe. Fathers pass their knowledge about instrument making on to their sons—some families have made guitars for five or more generations. Walk the streets and peer into workshops to see how it's done. Every August Paracho hosts the National Guitar Fair, a celebration with music and dance. 190 mi/305 km west of Mexico City.

PATZCUARO

This town in the state of Michoacan is famous for a nearby lake, its fishermen and their butterfly-shaped nets. While in Patzcuaro, take a short walk up to El Estribo—a picnic site—for a beautiful view of the town and the lake beyond (take it easy—Patzcuaro is at 7,000 ft/2,135 m above sea level). In town, drop by the library (fresco by Juan O'Gorman), spend time in some of the small plazas and shop at the town's wonderful markets: Souvenir toy boats, serapes, straw items, copperware, lacquerware, sweaters and rebozos (shawls) are only some of the items for sale. If you are there on a Friday, visit the fish market.

Take some time to head to the lake to watch the fishermen catching whitefish. You can get a fishing boat to take you to Janitzio Island. We suggest you spend at least a day there. In the middle of the island there is a giant statue of Morelos, a hero of the fight for independence. Climb up inside for a good view of the island. Janitzio is world famous for its colorful Day of the Dead celebrations on 1 November, though it has lately been criticized for being too commercial. Book a room well in advance in Patzcuaro or Morelia if you want to take in the Day of the Dead festivities.

The Tzintzuntzan ruins are about 15 mi/25 km north of Patzcuaro (look for pottery there, especially the work of Manual Morales, and for embroidery). 200 mi/300 km west of Mexico City.

PLAYA DEL CARMEN

The fishing village of Playa del Carmen has long been known as the place where visitors caught the ferry to Cozumel Island or the bus to the Yucatan's famous Maya ruins. Few travelers, including those tendered to the ferry dock from passing cruise ships, took the time to look around. But the town affectionately known as "Playa" is changing quickly: New hotels, boutiques and restaurants are opening, and visitors are starting to recognize its merits: beautiful, sandy beaches and a funky, laid-back atmosphere.

Despite Playa's growing popularity, the pace remains delightfully slow. And the core of this pleasant town is still decidedly Mexican: During the day, the central plaza is full of local youngsters playing games, and in the evenings, it takes on a festive air as seemingly everyone in town gathers for a stroll. Musicians in sombreros ply the streets entertaining patrons at open-air restaurants.

One of the charms of Playa has been its modest scale: It's so small you can walk anywhere in a few minutes. For the most part, its chic new hotels, restaurants and cafes haven't disturbed the town's delightful coziness. But little Playa is growing, and the town's lovely beach is becoming sandwiched between some oversized seaside developments. To the south is the sprawling Playacar development, which includes three luxury hotels and a golf course (many of its facilities are open to the public). Farther south a cruise-ship dock at Puerto Calica is introducing the attractions of this stretch of sand along the Caribbean to thousands of day trippers.

Xcaret is a Disneyesque water-culture park about 6 mi/10 km south of Playa del Carmen. It's the type of place you'll either love or hate. And if you don't like crowds, don't go. There's plenty to see and do—especially if you go in the afternoon when most of the visitors have started tiring out. You can float through underwater tunnels that are connected to a lagoon, swim with dolphins (for an extra fee of US$60) and tour Maya ruins. Other features include a re-created Maya village with actors in traditional costume, a museum housing scale models of historic Maya sites, a botanical garden (with an orchid farm), two restaurants and a bar, lockers and thatched palapas for respite from the sun. Don't miss the reenacted Maya ball game. Be aware that you cannot use traditional sunscreens because they pollute the water and may harm the sea life. Entrance fee runs about US$39.

Approximately 10 mi/16 km farther south along the main highway is Xpu-Ha Eco Park, which was built around a beautiful chain of cenotes. The US$39 entrance fee covers the works: biking, kayaking, snorkeling, catamaran rides and a large food buffet.

Xel-Ha, another private park that lies 23 mi/37 km south of Playa, has a clear blue lagoon that was sacred to the Maya and is visited by huge, beautiful parrot fish. There used to be great snorkeling in the lagoon, but the snorkelers seemed to outnumber the fish during our last visit. It's still a beautiful place for sunbathing, reading and jumping in the gorgeous lagoon for a dip. If you go, don't miss the floating bridge and nature walks. And as at Xcarat, sunscreen is not permitted. Masks and fins can be rented at the park; a snorkel is included in the entrance fee (US$19).

Nature lovers might also want to visit the Xaman-Ha Aviary, which is located within the Playacar resort. The aviary houses hundreds of birds in a tropical forest setting. Entrance fee runs US$6.

Beautiful, sheltered beaches stretch north and south of the ferry dock in Playa del Carmen. They are especially enjoyable because the water is so calm. The resort hotels along the waterfront will generally allow nonguests to use their facilities. The long stretch of sand between the Pelicano Inn and Blue Parrot Hotel is one of the best beaches that you can walk to from the center of town. Just head north on Avenida 5, turn right at Calle 8, and walk toward the water.

About 2 mi/3 km north of Playa del Carmen, off Highway 307, is Punte Bete, a palm-fringed white-sand beach that is a lovely place to swim and snorkel. An attractive beachside resort, Coco's Cabanas, has a collection of bungalows facing the beach with a swimming pool, showers and a restaurant. Day visitors are welcome. Helmut's is a good place for lunch there. (The area's nude beach is a bit north of Punte Bete.)

PUEBLA

The guardian of the eastern gateway to Mexico City, Puebla has played an important role in the nation's history: The only victory of Mexican forces over foreign invaders took place there when Maximilian's French Foreign Legion was defeated on 5 May 1862 (now celebrated as Cinco de Mayo throughout Mexico).

Puebla has more than 60 churches (including its grand 16th-century cathedral) and a "secret convent" (it was active after convents and monasteries were outlawed in 1857). It's known for palm-leaf crafts, tiles, pottery and mole poblano, a rich chocolate and chili sauce that was first prepared there.

Start your visit at the Amparo Museum, which covers 30 centuries of Mexican history and has a modern audiovisual system that allows visitors to listen to explanations in a number of languages (be selective—there are 18 hours of narration). Museo Bello contains an impressive collection of colonial-era art, and Santa Rosa Convent is fascinating for its enormous tiled kitchen and museum of local crafts. Just strolling the city's streets is a treat: Many buildings are covered in gorgeous tiles, and shops display an irresistible array of Puebla's famous hand-painted talavera pottery.

Puebla is often used as a base for visiting nearby Cholula, the site of Tenanapa Pyramid. Extensive tunnels give visitors a good view of its interior. 80 mi/130 km east of Mexico City.

PUERTO ANGEL

This small fishing village (pop. 3,500) has managed to remain an oasis of tranquillity and understatement precisely because of its isolation from mainstream tourism development. The hippies who frequented this "underground" destination in the 1960s and 1970s have been replaced by a few European backpackers and middle-class tourists seeking a laid-back, out-of-the-way beach destination.

There is not a lot to do in this town, but that's the appeal: This is a place where it's easy to forget what day it is. People relax under palapas on the beach, sit in streetside cafes or lounge in hammocks, drinking cerveza, eating fresh seafood and watching small wooden fishing boats putter in and out of the cozy harbor.

There are two main beaches, Playa Principal (along the town's main street) and Playa El Panteon (accessible by a stone walkway and visible from the harbor). Swimming is good because of the rocky outcroppings that form a sheltered bay. Several even more secluded beaches are accessible by boat. Playa Zipolite, just a few miles from town, is beautiful for strolling or sunbathing, but we don't recommend swimming there: The undertow is often dangerous, no lifeguards are on duty, and drownings are not uncommon. Beyond Zipolite lies Playa Mazunte, famous for its turtle museum and sanctuary. (Sea turtles come ashore in June to lay their eggs.)

A few first-class hotels and many low-to-moderately priced ones can be found in town. Puerto Angel is mainly for visitors who don't want posh surroundings and don't need to be pampered but who aren't into roughing it, either. 110 mi/175 km south of Oaxaca.

PUERTO ESCONDIDO

Until the late 1920s, this attractive town by the sea (pop. 30,000) was just a small fishing village, inhabited by native Indians. In 1928 Puerto Escondido was developed as a port for coffee plantations in the nearby mountains. Tourism didn't come into the picture until adventurous surfers discovered the town's perfect crescent-shaped bay some years ago. Things haven't been the same since.

In many ways, the town lives up to its name, which means "hidden port." It retains the feel of a sleepy coastal village, with fishermen repairing colorful nets and locals riding burros along sandy side streets. The international surf-bum set adds to the laid-back atmosphere and contributes a certain cosmopolitan edge. Puerto Escondido hosts two surfing competitions each year, one during summer and another in November.

Playa Zicatela, on the south side of town, is considered one of the top five surfing destinations in the world. New hotels and restaurants are springing up there and changing the formerly rag-tag surfing beach into a more touristy area. Note: The undertow and giant waves at Zicatela can be dangerous. There are lifeguards, but only experienced swimmers should take to the waters. There are calmer, safer places to swim closer to town.

In fact, Puerto Escondido has seven beaches. Fishing boats intermingle with tourists and merchants along the in-town beaches, Playa Marinero and Playa Principal. These are lined with open-air restaurants, shops and hotels. Farther north, accessible by boat or taxi, are several secluded coves ideal for swimming and snorkeling. The small beaches of Playa Manzanillo, Playa Angelito and Playa Carrizalillo are less crowded. The northernmost beach, Playa Bacocho, is also dangerous for swimming.

Inexpensive to moderately priced hotels are found in town along the Adoquin, in the Zicatela area and in outlying neighborhoods. Surf bars (blasting Bob Marley tunes) and funky cafes (serving spirulina yogurt shakes and vegetarian omelettes) dot the Adoquin. Nightlife action there typically begins about 11 pm.

If you tire of the beach and surf action, take a boat tour of Lagunas Chacagua National Park, east of Puerto Escondido. The mangrove-lined lagoons there are rich in bird life (egrets, hummingbirds and kingfishers). 90 mi/145 km south of Oaxaca.

PUERTO VALLARTA

Protected by the second largest bay in the American continent, Bahía de Banderas, with over 40 km of golden beaches in the center of the Mexican Pacific and surrounded by the majestic mountains of the Sierra Madre Occidental lies Puerto Vallarta, a paradise whose special charm is due to its blend of colonial and cosmopolitan features.

The best way to enjoy Puerto Vallarta is to wander through Viejo Vallarta, with its traditional cobbled streets, white-walled houses, wrought-iron balconies and red tiled roofs; visit the Templo de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe, with its unusual dome, a replica of the crown worn by Empress Charlotte in 1860; admire the original murals by the artist Manuel Lepe in the Palacio Municipal; walk along the jetty with its esplanade of bronze statures and wide variety of shops with something for everyone; explore the galleries displaying contemporary Mexican art; sample the varied gastronomy in one of its open-air restaurants while gazing at a beautiful sunset or enjoy a traditional Mexican evening complete with folkloric ballet.

To the north lies Marina Vallarta, the largest sports port in Mexico that attracts luxurious yachts and sailboats from all over the world and is surrounded by deluxe hotels, shopping malls and golf courses. Next to it, in the state of Nayarit, is Nuevo Vallarta, the most recent tourist resort in the bay.

In Puerto Vallarta you will find more than one way of recharging your batteries, since there are hundreds of opportunities for recreation, particularly water sports such as diving, sailboat regattas, fishing, skiing and Jet Skis as well as gentle boat rides round the bay to watch dolphins, turtles and humpbacked whales, just some of the natural attractions that make this one of the world’s favorite destinations.

SALTILLO

Saltillo (pop. 570,000) lies in a magnificent scenic region of canyons and mountains. The downtown area, which is built around two plazas, has maintained its colonial charm. Plan to visit the Cathedral of Santiago there.

Parras de la Fuente (95 mi/155 km west of Saltillo) is where Pedro Domecq brandy is distilled from locally grown grapes (it's said to be one of the best-selling brandies in the world). Take time to stroll the cobblestone streets and enjoy the 16th-century atmosphere. Just north of town you'll find the first winery established in the Americas (ca. 1590s), now called Casa Madero. Saltillo is 50 mi/80 km southwest of Monterrey.

SAN BLAS

Founded by the Spanish in the 16th century, this small Pacific Coast town lies between Mazatlan and Puerto Vallarta. San Blas will interest get-away-from-it-all travelers who don't care for an Acapulco-type tourist resort but who still want to spend time in the water. The winter months are when bird-watchers will want to visit: Thousands of migratory birds can be seen then (more than 400 species have been observed in one season). Very tropical and laid back, it's really enchanting (you'll be able to see why it once interested the British as a possible trade center).

Though lovely, the town is not for those who demand comfort. And don't confuse it with the San Blas farther north, in Sinaloa. San Blas is in the jungle, so take plenty of insect repellent to ward off mosquitoes and jejenes, the local version of no-see-ums (biting gnats). The jungle boat trips are especially good, with morning being the best time to see animals. Nearby Las Islitas on Matanchen Bay has the best beaches in the area and has long, gentle waves that appeal to surfers.

Santiago Ixcuintla (25 mi/40 km north) is a fascinating place to learn about Huichol Indian culture. The town itself is not very attractive, but it's home to Suzanna Valdez's Center for Survival of the Huichol Indians. The center includes a library of the Huichol's ancestral designs and a workshop where members of the tribe learn traditional crafts as well as ways to incorporate other methods into their work. It is also a hospital, and the money visitors spend goes toward helping the Huichol people. We recommend going any time except June and July, when the town is an inferno and when Suzanna Valdez is gone. There is an adequate motel at the edge of town. Alternatively, stay in San Blas and drive over for the day. 140 mi/225 km northwest of Guadalajara.

SAN CRISTOBAL DE LAS CASAS

A beautiful colonial city, San Cristobal is a fascinating place to see elements of Mexican culture that can no longer be found in other locales. The market is the best place for people watching, especially to see Maya women dressed in traditional garb—embroidered blouses and tunics and long dark skirts. (Always ask permission before photographing them.)

Those with a strong interest in Maya culture will want to visit the Na Bolom Institute, founded by the late Gertrude Duby Blom, an authority on the Lacandon people. The town also has intriguing colonial architecture and churches and one of the best traditions of brocading and weaving in the country. It's also the best place to buy amber in Mexico: Chiapas is one of a few places in the world that mines this precious resin. The city's two Spanish-language schools are well regarded.

Side trips to such fascinating Indian villages as San Juan Chamula and Zinacantan are possible. 40 mi/65 km east of Tuxtla Gutierrez.

SAN LUIS POTOSI

Despite its industrial leanings, San Luis Potosi (pop. 669,000) has gloriously preserved colonial architecture (churches and civil buildings) in the downtown section. It's also home to the National Museum of Masks, which displays examples of the masks that play a large role in Mexican culture. Some people love this town; others can't see what all the fuss is about. On Good Friday, San Luis has an annual Procession of Silence that is reminiscent of medieval Spain. The town also hosts arts and dance festivals in spring and summer. 225 mi/375 km north of Mexico City.

SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE

Founded in 1542 as a way station for wagon trains, San Miguel de Allende is popular with U.S. and Canadian retirees, artists and writers. The town's centro zone is a national monument, so changes to its beautiful buildings and cobblestone streets are restricted. Take time to admire the carved-wood doors on homes lining the narrow streets. San Miguel de Allende has become somewhat touristy, however, with many art galleries and T-shirt shops filling those lovely buildings.

The influence of foreign residents has resulted in a bilingual community blessed with language schools, art institutes and cultural activities, including an annual winter arts festival, a world-famous chamber-music festival (early August), a jazz festival (late November), and frequent concerts and lectures. The town still retains its authentic Mexican flair with many fiesta days and dances. Strollers and mariachi players fill the town square at night.

San Miguel de Allende and nearby Dolores Hidalgo (25 mi/40 km north) together are the birthplace of the Mexican War of Independence. Padre Hidalgo and Ignacio Allende conspired—in both towns—the insurrection that started the 1810 revolution. The month-long September festivities include many parades, fireworks, processions, speeches and even a Pamplona-style running of bulls through the town square. 180 mi/290 km northwest of Mexico City.

TAXCO

Taxco (pop. 99,000) has had an interesting history. Shortly after Cortes conquered Mexico, it was the site of the first Spanish mine, and a rich one it was, yielding both gold and silver. The initial lodes played out, but in the 1700s, another big silver vein was opened. Lavish buildings built during the boom years include Santa Prisca Cathedral. Beginning in the 1930s, a U.S. citizen pioneered a thriving industry: the production of silver jewelry. Today it's still a great place to shop for fine jewelry.

Taxco is a beautiful town with white stucco buildings, geraniums and steep cobblestone streets. It's become a popular destination for U.S. travelers: Mexicans joke that they, too, would vacation in Taxco, if only they spoke English. Visitors not in top physical condition will huff and puff going up and down the town's hills. Many people see Taxco as they drive through the Sierra Madre while traveling between Mexico City and Acapulco. 100 mi/160 km southwest of Mexico City.

TEOTIHUACAN

One of the most interesting and accessible archaeological attractions in the country, Teotihuacan was already ancient and deserted when discovered by the Aztecs centuries ago. Its exact origins remain unknown (the Aztecs gave it its name, which means "the place where men became gods"). Most visitors go to see the Pyramid of the Sun, the largest monument and the tallest pyramid in Mexico, measuring 690 ft/210 m high. Other major structures are the Pyramid of the Moon, the Citadel and the Temple of Quetzalcoatl, and there's also a museum dedicated to the site. Plan a full day for the visit: We recommend arranging a guided tour (English available)—most will give good information and will still allow visitors plenty of time to explore on their own. Along the outskirts of the ruins are many stalls where you can buy jewelry and crafts (the pottery only looks ancient, by the way). A few hotels are very near the site. 30 mi/50 km northeast of Mexico City.

TEPIC

Nayarit's state capital, Tepic (pop. 305,000) is set amid several volcanoes. The city's other attractions include several museums (one that's housed in an 18th-century house) and a 10-ft/3-m cross made of hay outside a former convent (it's said to have displayed miraculous powers of healing since the 17th century). 115 mi/185 km northwest of Guadalajara.

TEPOTZOTLAN

Tepotzotlan is home to the church of St. Francis Xavier—now the National Museum of the Viceregal Period. The church defines the overembellished churrigueresque style and houses religious paintings, statues, parque pictures and antiques dating from the colonial period. 22 mi/35 km north of Mexico City.

TIJUANA

This thriving city (pop. 1.2 million) can easily be seen as a day trip from San Diego, California (a trolley goes from downtown San Diego to the border). To get to downtown Tijuana, you can either catch a bus at the border or simply walk across the bridge and then take a cab. Tijuana has a wealth of shopping opportunities (everything from arcades displaying tacky souvenirs to fine folk-art shops), two bullrings, all categories of hotels and good nightlife.

The Tijuana Cultural Center, a multimillion-dollar showcase displaying exhibits about Mexico's people, events and culture, is well worth a visit. The center's Museum of the Californias provides a great overview of the Baja California peninsula and includes interactive exhibits, replicas of Baja's most important missions and dioramas of desert flora and fauna.

Families can spend some time at the Mundo Divertido, an amusement park with rides, children's activities and frequent entertainment by Mexican bands and dance troupes. In addition to the shopping, there's an active restaurant-and-bar scene on Avenida Revolucion that caters to U.S. college students and other young revelers. Watch where you go at night—some areas and certain bars take an ugly turn after dark. 16 mi/26 km south of San Diego, California.

TOLUCA

This town (pop. 666,000) is best known for its Mexico Cultural Center. The complex contains the Museum of Anthropology and History, the Museum of Popular Culture and the Museum of Modern Art. Also of interest is the Cosmo Vitral, a botanical garden in an old market building noted for its stained-glass panels. Several Indian villages near the city of Toluca offer a wide range of handicrafts: Metepec for pottery, Tenancingo for wood and palm furniture and Almoloya for beautifully decorated tablecloths and handmade rugs. We recommend chauffeur-driven tours to these villages because they're difficult to locate. 45 mi/75 km west of Mexico City.

TULA

The site of engaging Toltec ruins, Tula has several temples topped by pillars, as well as large stone carvings of warriors. There's a small museum at the entrance to the site. In town, visit the colonial-era Franciscan monastery and church of San Jose. 45 mi/70 km north of Mexico City.

TULUM

The only major Maya city built next to the sea, Tulum enjoys a spectacular setting, perched on a bluff above the Caribbean. The city was still inhabited when the first Spaniards arrived, and it was said to be larger than Seville at that time. What remains today, however, is a rather small collection of buildings, at least when compared with Maya sites like Chichen Itza. Many of the ruins are roped off to keep people from damaging them. Nonetheless, the ocean setting is lovely. A beach at the foot of the cliff adds to the picture-postcard quality of the area. Tulum is a convenient day-trip destination from Cancun and Cozumel. 80 mi/130 km southwest of Cancun.

TUXTLA GUTIERREZ

Tuxtla (pop. 435,000) is often overlooked because it's a modern town in a somewhat primitive area. But we find the city to be very pleasant: It has an excellent regional museum (with both pre-Columbian and colonial exhibits) and a good zoo (with animals found in the state—jaguars, ocelots, spider monkeys).

Some 15 mi/24 km northeast of town is El Sumidero, a wild canyon that can be seen from a boat on the Grijalva River (it departs from a dock 7 mi/11 km east of town). Nearby ruins include Bonampak, famous for its intimate, colored murals, and Yaxchilan, the city of the Maya Jaguar kings (both are accessible by charter plane). Tuxtla is also the jumping-off point for trips to the Piedras Negras ruins of Guatemala (there are also several ruins, as well as a city, by this name in Mexico). 430 mi/690 km southeast of Mexico City.

URUAPAN

Often seen in conjunction with a visit to Morelia and Patzcuaro, Uruapan (pop. 265,000) doesn't seem to have much to offer on the surface. What's hidden is what makes it interesting. In 1943 Paricutin Volcano rose up outside of town (a farmer literally watched it grow in his cornfield). Before it was finished forming, it had wiped out two villages. You can visit the area, but bear in mind that the dirt road ends 4 mi/7 km from the volcano. Guides with horses can be hired to take you to the site, where you'll see a church spire sticking out of the cooled lava—and that's it. Two lovely waterfalls, Tzararacua and Tzararacuita (smaller and better for swimming), lie about 6 mi/10 km south of Uruapan. 200 mi/325 km west of Mexico City.

UXMAL

Uxmal (pronounced OOSH-mal—"thrice built," in the Mayan language) started to flourish in the 7th century AD (though many changes were made over the following 300 years). Be sure to visit the Pyramid of the Magician (according to Maya legend, it was built overnight), the Nunnery quadrangle, the House of Turtles and the Governor's Palace (note the 20,000-plus stones carved to look like lace, guarded by a stone jaguar). Don't miss the sound-and-light show in the evening (check upon arrival for times). 60 mi/100 km south of Merida.

VERACRUZ

On the Gulf of Mexico, Veracruz (pop. 457,000) is a good place to go for Caribbean atmosphere (marimba music echoes through the streets at night), colonial architecture (though, as a port, the city has its share of ugly container facilities) and good seafood. The beach is not the draw there—the sand, volcanic in origin, is gray, and there is little surf. The zocalo, or main square, is one of the most animated and raucous in the country. Attractions include historic forts (San Juan de Ulua and Baluarte de Santiago), a naval museum and an impressive aquarium.

Jalapa (or Xalapa) lies 75 mi/120 km northwest of Veracruz. The Anthropology Museum there, one of Mexico's finest museums, has archaeological displays, pre-conquest sculpture, pottery and some of the giant heads created by the Olmec. A small museum beneath Juarez Park features work by Diego Rivera. 265 mi/425 km east of Mexico City.

ZACATECAS

This silver-mining town (pop. 120,000) founded in 1546 was a major city of Spain's New World empire, and today it's a jewel in the crown of Mexico's colonial cities. Wealth from area silver mines was used to create buildings with delightful colonial architecture, many of which you can explore on your own. The pink-cantera (stone) cathedral, with its intricate carved-stone facade and striking interior, is an outstanding example of churrigueresque architecture.

Zacatecas' several museums include the exceptional Pedro Coronel Museum, which includes works by Chagall, Picasso, Goya and Daumier, as well as exhibits of Chinese, Indian, Japanese and—surprisingly—Tibetan art. Another museum showcases the town's native-son artist, Francisco Goitea. A museum donated by Rafael Coronel (Pedro's brother) displays 3,700 hand-carved masks, mostly from Mexico.

After a day of museums, drop by the Hotel Quinta Real, even if you're not staying there. It was built around the beautifully paved (now restored) Plaza de Toros San Pedro, among the oldest bullfight arenas in the Americas. The central market has been restored to a pristine state and contains upscale boutiques (some sell beautiful silver jewelry). You can also take a cable-car ride across the city; it ends at La Bufa, a peak outside of town that has a nice view. (Avoid the cable cars if there's high wind, however.)

El Eden is a former silver mine that has been renovated and opened to visitors, who descend into the mine via elevator and take tours riding an open flatbed coal car (not for the claustrophobic). The nearby Convento de Guadalupe has religious paintings. 190 mi/320 km northeast of Guadalajara.

© Copyright: John Nelson