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Guatemala

When you list its assets, Guatemala seems to be one of the best travel destinations in Central America: the stunning Maya ruins at Tikal, the well-preserved colonial city of Antigua, a vibrant indigenous culture, active volcanoes, highland lakes, exotic wildlife. But getting to these gems and safely enjoying them makes the country a challenge.

From the 1950s until the mid 1990s, the country's bloody civil war was a deterrent to travelers, though many of the major attractions were far from the areas of fighting. Since the war ended in 1996, there's been a spate of improvements in tourist accommodations and infrastructure: Luxury hotels have been built, roads have been upgraded and cruise-ship passengers have begun arriving at the country's two modern ports.

Despite these improvements, however, an increase in crime, including violent attacks targeting travelers, has made Guatemala more unpredictable -- and more dangerous -- than during the war.

We think Guatemala is an exceptional destination, but we don't take the risks lightly: We urge all visitors to be extremely cautious, and we strongly recommend, at least for the present, that you stick to the major tourist destinations and see them on a tour organized by a reputable operator.

Plenty of tours are available that take in the best of Guatemala, and the best of the best is Tikal: the greatest of the ruins left from the age of the Maya, whose accomplishments in the fields of medicine, mathematics and astronomy are a source of national pride and universal awe. We think Tikal is one of the most impressive ruins in the world (in a class with places like Machu Picchu in Peru or the Valley of the Kings in Egypt). Frankly, Tikal alone is worth the trip...

Where to Go

ANTIGUA GUATEMALA

Founded in 1543, Antigua (Old) Guatemala was the capital of Spain's Central American confederacy and the third most important city in the Americas (after Mexico City and Lima, Peru) in the 1500s. It was devastated by an earthquake in 1773, however, and subsequent earthquakes persuaded the government to relocate the capital (now Guatemala City).

The city can be seen on a day's excursion from Guatemala City, but it deserves more time. Some visitors—we're among them—prefer to use this colonial gem as their base for touring the country (instead of the capital): It has a large English-speaking community, a wide range of accommodations, upscale and medium-priced restaurants, espresso bars, delicious baked goods and, for nightlife, jazz clubs and a disco.

Antigua's cobblestone streets and its preserved churches, convents and mansions built in the 1500s and 1600s are what make it special (it was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979). Both the government and private sector continue to work on the restoration of the city's historic buildings. The Santo Domingo Monastery, founded by Dominican monks in 1642, has been beautifully restored and is now a hotel (Casa Santo Domingo) filled with antiques and artwork. Guests can watch archaeologists excavate a convent in the gardens.

Among the museums in town are the Antique Book Museum and the Santiago Museum, which contains colonial arms, costumes and works of art. Other highlights include San Carlos de Borromeo University (founded in 1681); Casa Popenoe (a restored Colonial mansion); the Santa Catalina Arch (and clock); and La Merced (a large yellow-and-white church). You should also take some time to admire the houses, which are painted in a variety of pastel colors and draped with bougainvillea.

Antigua is also the place to go in Guatemala if you want to learn to speak Spanish: About 60 schools in town offer intensive classes. Some courses include lodging with Guatemalan families. Visitors can also study various arts and crafts (backstrap weaving, drawing, painting, ceramics, photography, etc.) at the Art Workshops in La Antigua Guatemala, which are operated by a group of U.S. artists.

The city is especially interesting during Semana Santa (Holy Week), just before Easter. Indigenous groups and other city residents perform religious and folkloric traditions. Statues of Christ on the cross are carried through the streets, which are covered with colored sawdust designs. If you plan to visit for the festival, be sure to reserve a room at least six months in advance.

South of Antigua are two volcanoes—Pacaya Volcano and Agua Volcano—that are sometimes visited by travelers. Because of the danger of robbery in these areas, we strongly recommend that you avoid them. Of the two, Pacaya is the more popular: Numerous daytrips from Antigua and Guatemala City travel there, giving visitors the opportunity to see an active volcano, including lava flows. The sight isn't worth the danger: Bandits have made frequent armed attacks on tour groups, and the ash and rock that rain down can also be dangerous. 20 mi/32 km west of Guatemala City.

CHICHICASTENANGO

Also known as "Chichi," Chichicastenango is usually a sleepy town with cobblestone streets, but on Thursday and Sunday it hosts a well-known market that attracts thousands of Amerindians and large crowds of tourists. It's the most hectic market in Guatemala, but nowhere else in the country will travelers have such easy access to traditional culture as they will in Chichi. Plan on spending at least a couple of hours there.

The market starts at the steps of the 400-year-old Santo Tomas Church and covers a large area in front of it. Shop for such local handicrafts as pottery, weavings and wooden masks—and be prepared to bargain. The vendors are not circus barkers, though: They bargain quietly and politely in order not to disturb the people praying and lighting candles.

In fact, we found the religious activities taking place on Sunday more interesting than the buying and selling. In the morning, costumed prayer men perform religious ceremonies on the church steps while white clouds of copal incense fill the air. (You can use the side entrance to the church, where locals light candles on the floor and pray, but you should refrain from taking photographs there.)

You can visit Chichi as a day trip from Guatemala City or Antigua, but we suggest you arrive the day before the market and spend the night. If you get up early, you can watch hundreds of families pouring into town from the surrounding villages, bringing their produce and wares. And you'll get to watch the show before the tour buses roll in and the crowds get heavy.

Chichi's other big attraction is the Shrine of Pascual Abaj, on the outskirts of town. It's another place where local people regularly make sacrifices and give offerings. (According to a legend, Pascual was a poor hunchback who brought good fortune to a man who aided him.) If a ceremony is taking place while you're there, you can observe and take pictures, but you may be asked for an offering (a few quetzals will usually suffice). Even if there is no ceremony, the walk to this site is pleasant and the views of the city are lovely. 50 mi/80 km northwest of Guatemala City.

CHIQUIMULA

This town (pop. 42,570) is worth a stop to visit the Sanctuary of Esquipulas, an important pilgrimage church known for its Black Christ statue. It's often seen as part of a trip to the Copan ruins in neighboring Honduras. Chiquimula is 65 mi/105 km east of Guatemala City.

COPAN

Though it's located in Honduras, Copan is very close to the Guatemala-Honduras border, so it's often visited by tours operating out of Guatemala City and Antigua. A Maya capital from the 5th to the 9th centuries AD, Copan is one of the largest and most impressive of all the Maya centers discovered so far. It consists of pyramids, temples and stone pillars, or stelae, with exquisite carved likenesses of ancient Copan kings. While Tikal in Guatemala is the largest known Maya site and is easier to get to, Copan shouldn't be missed by anyone interested in the Maya civilization. The ruins are accessible by road from both Honduras and Guatemala—be aware that, if it rains, the road may be washed out.

The Maya built Copan in one of the most beautiful areas of Honduras, on the banks of the Copan River in a fertile valley with a near-perfect climate (elevation is 2,100 ft/640 m above sea level). There is evidence that the city's demise was brought on by overpopulation and deforestation: Overuse of the land may have rendered it unable to support the large population.

One of the highlights of Copan is the Rosalila Temple (named for its rosy red color), found almost intact under a later temple. An exact replica, painted in the same red, yellow, green and white colors as the original, is in the Maya Sculpture Museum, near the main entrance to the park. (The original temple can't be visited and is considered too sacred and fragile to be moved.) In addition to the Rosalila replica, the Sculpture Museum now houses some of the original stelae from the park that were being destroyed by ground moisture and fluctuations in temperature. Though you may be tempted to bypass the museum for more time at the ruins, don't do it: We found the museum one of the most rewarding parts of Copan.

Copan's Hieroglyphic Staircase contains perhaps the longest hieroglyphic text in the world. Although its 63 steps are covered with a canvas roof, the 1,200 glyphs are still in danger from the combination of moisture and the salt in the stones. Eventually they must be removed and treated in order to preserve them. The steps once led up to a small, thatched-roof temple, though the temple is now gone.

Plan to see the beautifully preserved and restored ball court. Its acropolis was eroded by the adjacent Copan River, revealing a cliff face 120 ft/37 m high in which a number of earlier levels of building can be distinguished. Another highlight is Altar Q, a box-shaped altar in the west plaza, which has sculptures of all of Copan's rulers sitting on glyphs representing their names.

The excavation of Copan, which started in the 1930s, continues. Only a fraction of the ruins have been unearthed, but as jungle growth is cleared away and more mounds are excavated, even more wondrous things may appear. Archaeologists have identified the remains of Copan's founder, K'inich Yax K'uk' Mo', or Sun-Eyed Green Quetzal Macaw, deep in the center of the massive Acropolis. Another site, El Sitio de las Sepulturas, is a rare example of fully restored residential dwellings of nobility and priests. Further excavation is expected to reveal a great deal about the daily life of nobles and others who lived with them.

Although the ruins take only a few hours to see, the nearby town of Copan Ruinas is a tranquil place to relax for a few days. Check out the Regional Museum in town, where objects found in a tomb discovered in 1989—three scepter pinnacles, two large jades and a shell containing congealed human blood—are on display. There are also several smaller archaeological sites in the area as well as hot springs and waterfalls. Activities include hiking, river "tubing" and horseback riding. 85 mi/140 km east of Guatemala City.

GUATEMALA CITY

Officially founded in 1776, Guatemala City is the capital of the country and the largest city in Central America (pop. 3,200,000 and growing). It lies in a large valley dominated by the Agua Volcano. It has a crowded and noisy old section that is almost impossible to drive through, but the other side of the city is modern and dynamic, with shopping malls, luxury hotels and new convention and financial centers. As with most large cities in the developing world, it has sprawling shantytowns.

"Guate," as it is known locally, has plenty to fill one full day of sightseeing, and several day trips can be made from there, including one to nearby Antigua. Start with a visit to the Museo Ixchel, which is dedicated exclusively to the collection and preservation of the colorful costumes and weavings of Guatemala's indigenous communities (allow about two hours). If you're planning to spend time outside the city, stop and look at the giant relief map of Guatemala in Minerva Park. (Note that Belize is portrayed as an integral part of Guatemala. This is because Guatemala did not recognize that country's independence until 1991. Newer maps no longer show Belize as part of Guatemala.)

Along with the Museo Ixchel, one of the country's most impressive museums is the Museo Popol Vuh, which has an excellent collection of Maya artifacts and contemporary folk art. If you have enough time, visit the Museum of Archaeology and Ethnology to see archaeological displays.

But don't miss the National Palace, on the north side of Plaza Mayor in Guatemala City's historic center. Built in the 1940s, it served as offices for the president before it was converted into a museum. Murals by A. Galvez Suarez depict Guatemala's conquest by the Spaniards and the death of Tecun Uman, a famous Maya warrior. Many cultural events take place in an adjoining amphitheater.

If you are not visiting the market at Chichicastenango, then stop by the Central Market, one block from the plaza behind the cathedral. It contains every kind of handicraft made in the country and every kind of goods you can buy at Chichi, but it isn't as much fun. As in any crowded place, watch your pocket or purse: It's thick with thieves, and some carry weapons.

Be sure to stroll around the Plaza Mayor, which is a typical example of a large Spanish Colonial plaza. In the late afternoon and on Sunday, throngs of people go there to walk and socialize. Guatemala City's most upscale restaurants and nightclubs are in Zones 9 and 10, known as the Zona Viva. Zone 11 contains the Tikal Futura Complex—a convention and expo center, a shopping mall, an entertainment center and other facilities. If you go there by taxi, you'll feel like you're entering the developed world. Many of the nightlife spots are attached to European- and U.S.-chain hotels.

Note: Be especially careful in Guatemala City, which has a serious problem with crime. Armed attacks have occured in Zone 1 (around the Plaza Mayor) and the Central Market, many in broad daylight.

LAKE ATITLAN

We think Lake Atitlan, with its enchanting backdrop of three volcanoes, is one of the most beautiful lakes on Earth—well worth a two-night visit. In the morning, the lake (a caldera—a collapsed volcanic cone) is smooth; by noon, it's choppy; and in the late afternoon, it can get very rough. The scenery (volcanoes and waterfalls) surrounding the lake is impressive, as are the 12 little villages ringing it (each named after one of the apostles). What we especially like about the Atitlan area is the strong Maya influence in the people, dress and food.

Many visitors stay in the village of Panajachel, a well-developed tourism hub on the lake. Plenty of hotels and restaurants can be found there, but it's a tad run down, slightly overpriced and very touristy. (We think some of the pristine beauty of the lake was destroyed when the Hotel Barcelo del Lago built a wooden platform along the beach: It can turn into a very noisy playground at times.) Panajachel used to have a reputation as a haven for New Age seekers and pot-smoking global drifters, but that image seems to be fading. A lot of wealthy U.S. citizens and Guatemalans now have homes there. The first week of October, when Panajachel honors its patron saint, St. Francis, with special festivities, is an especially good time to visit.

Santiago Atitlan is a great day trip, especially for the boat trip across the lake. The town is the home of the Tuztuil, who maintain their Maya religious practices and are renowned artisans. Just before Easter, they celebrate with a god called Maximon, whose effigy is paraded through the streets, doused in rum and given a lit cigar and a fedora for his head. Maximon is said to represent the life force, and he's definitely the life of the party. 40 mi/65 km west of Guatemala City.

LIVINGSTON

A small coastal town on the Gulf of Honduras, Livingston is special because it's inhabited by English-speaking Caribbean blacks (known as Garifunas), who have a culture very different from that of Maya-Spanish Guatemala. In effect, Livingston is a little bit of Belize within Guatemala (but never say that to a Guatemalan!).

The laid-back atmosphere attracts drifters from around the world, but that may be changing. Livingston is being developed at a rapid pace: Several luxury hotels have opened. It's a great starting point for guided boat excursions on the Rio Dulce ("sweet river"), which passes through jungle and into Lake Izabal, where manatees live. You'll see wildlife (a lot of monkeys) and hot springs, as well as beautiful vacation homes. Livingston can be reached by boat from Puerto Barrios. 140 mi/225 km northeast of Guatemala City.

POPTUN

In northern Guatemala's Peten region (south of Tikal), Poptun is known for the Naj Tunich Cave, which has erotic Maya paintings and an underground hot-springs pool suitable for swimming. Though it can be a rewarding destination, we don't recommend a visit until conditions are safer in northern Guatemala. (Though Poptun is on the road between Guatemala City and Tikal, we recommend flying to the north rather than driving.) Even in the best of times, the cave isn't for those who tire easily: It's in an isolated, inhospitable, demanding jungle. 150 mi/240 km north of Guatemala City.

PUERTO BARRIOS

This Caribbean port city (pop. 338,000) is where you catch the ferry to Livingston, but it has no beach and very little of interest for most people. It does have a wonderful old hotel, the Hotel del Norte, with huge verandas and a classic early-20th-century Caribbean restaurant. The rooms are basic, but the place is atmospheric and charming in a way that few hotels are. You can also park a rental car at the hotel if you take the boat to Livingston. 150 mi/240 km northeast of Guatemala City.

PUERTO SAN JOSE

This Pacific coast town was Guatemala's principal seaport before Puerto Quetzal was built just down the coast. It's now a rather run-down place, but there are beaches nearby at Iztapa, Puerto Quetzal and Chulamar. Until recently, the area lacked modern facilities, but a Radisson Hotel has opened on the black-sand beaches at Chulamar. The area is hot and humid most of the year and sand fleas can be a problem on the beach. Swimming in the ocean can at times be dangerous because of riptides.

San Jose is a base for sportfishing trips. From October through December, large sailfish and dorado lure anglers looking to test their skills. Catch and release is practiced, though: Guatemala has laws prohibiting the possession or shipment of billfish.

If you travel to the San Jose area from Guatemala City, you will pass through Escuintla (pop. 75,440). It sits in a rich farming and cattle-raising area. There's not much to do there, except enjoy the lush tropical vegetation. San Jose is 55 mi/90 km south of Guatemala City.

QUEZALTENANGO

The second largest city in Guatemala (pop. 250,000), Quezaltenango is also known as Xela (SHAY-la). Once a Maya city, today it has lovely cobblestone streets and lots of Neoclassic architecture. It's a good place to buy Maya handwoven products and learn Spanish—it has several language schools for those who want a more thorough immersion than Antigua can offer. It is also known as the coldest city in Guatemala, so take a jacket (Quezaltenango is 7,650 ft/2,330 m above sea level).

Sights include the Municipal Theater, the city market and Central America Park, a beautiful square with a cathedral and museum. Concerts and folkloric dances often take place there. A special handicrafts market is held the first Sunday of the month. Tour operators frequently package Quezaltenango with a trip to Chichicastenango and Lake Atitlan.

Several day trips and excursions are available from Quezaltenango. Nature lovers will want to visit the Aguas Calientes de Georginas (these are sometimes not so much "hot" springs as lukewarm springs—they can be dirty, too—but the drive there is beautiful). Or head for Cerro El Baul National Park, overlooking the city. North of Quezaltenango are several villages: Salcaja, where you can visit the Church of San Jacinto (Tuesday is market day); San Cristobal Totonicapan, which also has a nice church (Sunday is market day); Totonicapan (Tuesday and Saturday markets); San Francisco el Alto (a Friday market that is quite good); Momostenango, where you'll see the Los Riscos limestone outcroppings (the town is known for wool blankets); and Nahuala, where you can get a good glimpse of typical village life.

Villages west of Quezaltenango include San Marcos (hot springs); Concepcion Chiquirichapa (wooden-furniture manufacturing); San Pedro Sacatepequez (lovely Indian-made clothing); San Martin Sacatepequez (baskets); and San Juan Ostuncalco (furniture manufacturing). Several hours north and west of Quezaltenango are the ruins of Zaculeu (a Maya religious center that was conquered by the Spanish in 1525) and the towns of Huehuetenango (a large market town), Chiantla (a nice local church) and Almolonga (try a bath in hot mineral water). Quezaltenango is 65 mi/105 km west of Guatemala City.

QUIRIGUA

A Maya site with many fine ruins, Quirigua is on the Motagua River. The highlight of the area is the collection of stelae (stone pillars with carvings) that stand in a clearing in the midst of the jungle. The tallest one in the Maya World is found there—30 ft/9 m high. We recommend seeing the site as part of an organized tour. Many of those available combine Quirigua with a visit to the ruins at Copan in Honduras (a two-day trip from Guatemala City), or combine Quirigua, Copan, the Rio Dulce and Livingston (a three-day trip). 145 mi/225 km northeast of Guatemala City.

TIKAL NATIONAL PARK

Tikal is one of the most impressive archaeological sites in the Americas. While totally different in architecture and setting from the Inca ruins of Machu Picchu in Peru, it is just as spectacular. Situated in the jungle of northern Guatemala, the ruins are part of the much larger Tikal National Park. The Maya structures occupy a large area (approximately 10 sq mi/25 sq km). So far, more than 3,000 palaces, temples, shrines, ceremonial platforms, ballcourts, plazas and residences have been mapped.

A tour of Tikal starts at the visitors center, where there is also a small museum. A 1-mi/1.6-km walk will take you to the Great Plaza, one of the most meticulously excavated areas. There, Temple I, known as the Temple of the Giant Jaguar, rises to 170 ft/50 m. An inspiring experience for those with stamina is to climb to the top of Temple I to watch the sunrise. The tallest standing temple in the Maya World is Temple IV in Tikal: 212 ft/64 m high.

Because this is a jungle area, it is usually hot and humid, although not unbearable. Wear a hat and lightweight clothing and take along insect repellent. Wear shoes with nonslip soles for climbing the stone steps and watch your footing on the uneven paths. If possible, plan to spend at least one night either in the park or in the vicinity: Seeing the ruins on a day trip doesn't do them justice. Lodges in the park are small and basic and frequently filled with archaeologists, so book early. For more luxurious accommodations, there's the Westin Camino Real hotel on Lake Peten Itza, about 35 mi/55 km from the park.

Driving to Tikal is possible but not recommended. It's a 310-mi/545-km drive from Guatemala City and usually cannot be done in less than 10 to 12 hours. Distance aside, driving through Peten province, as well as other parts of Guatemala, can be dangerous. We highly recommend flying into the airport at Flores and taking a bus or taxi to Tikal, 40 mi/65 km away. The airport at the ruins is no longer used. Tours are available from Guatemala City. 175 mi/280 km north of Guatemala City.

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History

The ancestors of the Maya gave up hunting, fishing and gathering at some point before 2000 BC and began growing crops. Corn was the reliable staple that allowed the great civilizations of what is now Mexico and Central America to develop, and the Maya inhabited a large area. Their greatest accomplishments were achieved from AD 250 to 800, though their civilization was still in existence when Europeans arrived in the early 1500s.

The Spaniards conquered the weak and divided Maya and took control of present-day Guatemala in 1524. During the colonial period, Spanish-born colonists held the reigns of power, but large groups of creoles (Spaniards born in the New World) and mestizos (those of mixed Spanish and indigenous heritage) also developed. At the bottom of the social hierarchy were those of pure Native-American or African heritage. The country gained independence from Spain in the early 1820s and became a republic in 1847.

The recent political unrest can be traced to a 1954 coup -- assisted by the U.S. Central Intelligence Agency -- that turned out a democratically elected leftist government. A series of military or military-influenced governments then ruled the country with a heavy hand and resistance became armed and organized. In response to growing popularity of guerrillas among the landless indigenous people in the 1960s, the army unleashed a campaign of terror in which thousands of people were killed and entire villages were massacred. In late 1996, the civil war ended when a series of agreements were signed between the Guatemalan government and guerrilla insurgents. Over its 36-year history, the war claimed the lives of an estimated 140,000 people.

Since the 1996 peace treaty, relations are better between the Maya and the Ladinos (as those of mixed Spanish and Amerindian descent are known).

The business climate also has improved, but poverty remains widespread in Guatemala, which is Central America's most populous country with about 13 million people. More than half of them are Maya (the largest indigenous population in the region), who still live in small farming villages, growing corn and beans as their ancestors did. They are world famous for their intricate handmade textiles of brilliant reds, yellows and purple. Most speak a variant of the Maya language -- in remote areas of the highlands, you might hear more Maya than Spanish, even though Spanish is the country's primary language.

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Dining

There's a wide variety of food available, from U.S.-style fast food in Guatemala City to the indigenous dishes served in the countryside (featuring chicken, pork, lean beef, corn, avocado, zucchini). Among the local specialties are pollo asado (grilled chicken), chuchitos (tamales) and frijoles con arroz (beans and rice). In the capital, you can also find Chinese and Latin American restaurants. (Latin American food is spicier than most European cuisines, but not as hot as Mexican food.) Local food offers the best value. We particularly enjoy the 1930s-style luxury of a meal at the Hotel Pan American in Guatemala City, complete with waiters in native costume and a piano player (and it's cheap). Another favorite is the Hacienda de la Sanchez in Guatemala City, an excellent steak house that serves handmade tortillas. Zona Viva, "the lively zone" (Zones 9 and 10 -- near the airport in Guatemala City), is where many of the larger, luxury hotels are located and excellent restaurants and entertainment can be found there, in both the hotels and the surrounding neighborhoods.

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Shopping

The vivid colors and unusual textures of Guatemalan arts and crafts have made shopping a major activity for visitors. The country's craftspeople spread out their wares on blankets and over kiosks along many roads and at most intersections. The two largest markets are the daily Central Market in Guatemala City and the Sunday and Thursday market in Chichicastenango.

Weavings are by far the most popular purchase. They come in a wide variety of sizes -- if a wall hanging of a Maya ruler wearing a headdress of snakes doesn't quite fit your home decor, look for tablecloths and napkin sets in rainbow colors. You'll also see handmade wool rugs adorned with the glyphs of the Maya calendar and colorful cases for your glasses that you can hang around your neck. Another woven product, the cotton string hammock, is useful and easy to stuff in a suitcase to take home. If you like ceremonial masks, you'll find them in shops in Antigua and Panajachel and especially in the market at Chichicastenango.

Generally, you'll find high quality in even the smallest items; in fact, we think Guatemala's textiles are among the finest expressions of native art in the world. Even without bargaining (a common practice in the markets), prices are cheap, compared with the work involved. Little is known of the history of Guatemalan textiles, an art that has been passed down from generation to generation. Patterns woven into an individual's clothing can identify the village they are from and sometimes even reveal marital status and the number of children they have.

In Antigua, you'll find beautiful and unusual jewelry in the Jades factory. You can also shop for paintings that depict the traditions, customs, daily life and scenery of small communities in which the artists live.

Although Guatemala is not really noted for pottery, you'll see it, especially figures of angels holding doves (careful, they break easily).

Don't try to ship anything home. Postal service in the country is unreliable at best. Be aware that the local shops recommended by tour operators, taxi drivers or your ship's port lecturer generally pay for the privilege.

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Climate

The best time to visit is November-April, when there's less rain. It's always cooler in the mountains (usually in the 60s F/15-22 C) and hot and humid in the lowlands (especially on the Pacific coast). Tikal can be very hot in the summer (in the 90s F/33-37 C and humid), but take a sweater and long-sleeved shirt for the evenings and a jacket for Guatemala City. In September, when tropical storms move in from the Caribbean, it can rain for days on end.

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Health

Medical care is limited. Serious medical problems requiring hospitalization and/or medical evacuation to the U.S. or Europe can cost thousands of dollars or more. Doctors and hospitals often expect immediate cash payment for health services.

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Basics

- Capital City: Guatemala City
- Dial Code 1: 502, country code
- Economy: Agriculture (especially coffee cultivation), tourism, manufacturing.
- Language Description: Spanish, various Maya dialects.
- Passport/Visa U.S.: Citizens of Canada and the U.S. need passports but not visas. Proof of onward passage and sufficient funds are required by all. Reconfirm travel document requirements with your carrier before departure.
- Population: 12,974,361
- Religion: Christian (Roman Catholic, Protestant) and traditional Maya.
- Time Zone: 6 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time (-6 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is not observed
- Tipping Overview: Tip 10%-20% in restaurants if a gratuity has not already been added. Taxi drivers are usually not tipped.
- Voltage Requirements: 110 volts
- What to Wear: Guatemala is a conservative country where shorts are reserved for beach resorts or the swimming pool. Women should dress modestly when visiting churches and historical sites. In the cities and highlands, spring clothing and a light jacket for cool evenings should serve you well. When visiting the archaeological sites and beaches wear light-colored cotton clothing -- long pants (both men and women) and a long-sleeved shirt -- and comfortable shoes with nonslip soles. During rainy season, waterproof, light-weight rain gear is more practical than an umbrella.

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Do's and Don'ts

Do ask before photographing the Maya people—particularly children. A few travelers have been attacked while taking pictures of youngsters because locals thought they might be kidnappers. (Tales of outsiders stealing children are widespread in Guatemala.)

Do leave a tip if you stop to listen to a street performance on a marimba, which looks like a large xylophone. The national instrument of Guatemala can be played by as many as nine people. Tips are the musicians' livelihood.

Do be aware that the wastebasket you'll find in some rest rooms is a none-too-subtle request for you to throw toilet tissue in the basket, not in the bowl, because of narrow pipes.

Do watch your step while exploring Maya ruins. Staircases leading up to many of the sites often are missing a few steps. Also, when walking on wooded or grassy paths, watch out for roots that can catch your foot or uneven ground that can send you tumbling.

Do be prepared for the heat, sand fleas and flies if you're headed into the jungle. Wear light-colored clothing and lather on the insect repellent

Do read up on the history of the Maya before visiting Tikal and other sites in Guatemala. A little background will greatly enhance your visit.

Do keep your eyes out for the resplendent quetzal, Guatemala's national bird, with its gaudy red and green plumage. You won't see it in zoos: This rare bird dies if held in captivity.

Do carry a photocopy of your passport at all times. It's against the law not to, and police at roadblocks will ask to see it. Keep your actual passport in a secure place, such as your hotel's safe.

Don't argue or offer resistance if you're stopped at a roadblock, whether military or otherwise. Vehicles that don't stop at roadblocks are often shot at. People who cooperate with armed robbers are usually not harmed.

Don't expect everyone to speak Spanish. In some valleys, Maya languages (including Quiche, Kekchi and Cakchiquel) predominate.

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Passport & Visa

Citizens of the following countries require a visa:

Required by all except the following for stays of up to 1 month:

- nationals of EU countries, Australia, Canada, Japan and US;

- nationals of Andorra, Argentina, Belize, Brazil, Chile, Costa Rica, El Salvador, Honduras, Israel, Liechtenstein, Mexico, Monaco, New Zealand, Nicaragua, Norway, Panama, Paraguay, San Marino, Switzerland, Taiwan, Uruguay, Vatican City and Venezuela for touristic visits of up to 1 month;

- nationals of Bahrain, Czech Republic, Iceland, Kuwait, Philippines, Poland, Saudi Arabia, Slovenia and South Africa, only if entering Guatemala by air (provided they obtain a Tourist Card at the airport);

Note:

Nationals of Andorra, Argentina, Austria, Belgium, Chile, Denmark, Finland, Germany, Israel, Italy, Japan, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Monaco, The Netherlands, Norway, Sweden, Switzerland and Uruguay may extend their visit to 3 months by written agreement.

Exit Permit:

Required by all except holders of a tourist card, those nationals declared visa exempt by the immigration authorities, and passengers staying for less than 30 days. Cost: Q2.50.

Citizens of the following countries require a passport: required by all.

IMPORTANT: we cannot held responsible for the correctness of this information.

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© Copyright: John Nelson