DESTINATION GUIDES > COUNTRIES

Spain

The exuberance of the Spaniards and the glorious predictability of the summer weather have been attracting refugees from northern Europe's damp and clammy lands for decades, but Spain is much more than the Costa del Sol and warm English beer. It is drenched in the historical pageantry of empire and conquistadors, the artistic legacy of Goya, Velázquez, Picasso and Dalí, and the romance of Don Quijote, Papa Hemingway and the International Brigades...

Where to Go

ALICANTE

The resort city of Alicante (pop. 261,000) is jammed most of the year with foreign tourists enjoying the warm weather and beaches. Other attractions include the imposing Castillo de Santa Barbara (perched on a hill, it commands a good view of the coastline), the Explanada de Espana (the promenade along the harbor) and the old Barrio de Santa Cruz (the part of town that preserves some of its ancient past). The surrounding province of Alicante includes the Costa Blanca resort region and such popular towns as Benidorm, Altea and Denia. 225 mi/360 km southeast of Madrid.

AVILA

Enchanting Avila, a wonderful 1,000-year-old city, is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. The surrounding region, known as the Tierra de Cantos y de Santos (Land of Songs and Saints), is associated with Spain's great Christian mystics, San Juan de la Cruz and Santa Teresa de Jesus.

Avila's main attraction is its medieval wall, which measures 1 mi/2 km in circumference and completely encircles the old part of town. The ramparts have nine gates and 88 towers, many topped with stork nests. Walk along the top of the wall or stroll around the outside. Just inside one gate is the Convent of Saint Teresa, with a small church built over the saint's birthplace. Avila also has interesting narrow streets, an intriguing cathedral and the Real Monasterio de Santo Tomas (the summer home of Ferdinand and Isabella).

If possible, plan an overnight stay at the Nacional Parador Raimondo de Borgonia, a palace-turned-hotel. (We recommend dropping by and soaking up the atmosphere at the parador even if you can't spend the night.) 55 mi/85 km west of Madrid.

BARCELONA

A visit to any Barcelona gift shop will immediately alert you to the city's number-one icon: the huge, fantastic and unfinished church of Sagrada Familia. It's a good symbol for the city and not just because it looks flashy on a postcard. Like the church, Barcelona takes traditional ideas and presents them in new, even outrageous, forms. And like Sagrada Familia, the city's continuous bursts of building and innovation give the impression that it's a place that's still being conceived. Both cathedral and city can be tough places to get a handle on, and yet their complexity is invigorating rather than forbidding: They shouldn't be missed.

Judging by the large numbers of travelers bustling in and out of the city, not too many people are missing Barcelona. Since the city hosted the Summer Olympics in 1992, it has been on the hot list of European destinations. Such popularity may make it harder to land a hotel room, but it has only added to the sense that Barcelona is a place to be, as much for its energetic, cosmopolitan character as for its unusual attractions.

Sooner or later, you must take a walk down La Rambla, Barcelona's famous thoroughfare, so you may as well make it sooner. It's a good introduction to the city, and it will put you in good position to see other nearby attractions. If you head northeast from La Rambla, you'll enter the twisting, ancient streets of the Barri Gotic (Gothic Quarter). Find your way to the Cathedral as you explore the district. Nearby is the Museu de la Historia de la Ciutat (City History Museum). The Barri Gotic also holds several other treasures, so you may want to plan more than one day in the area. The highlights are Museu Picasso and another church, Santa Maria del Mar. It's fun just to amble through the streets, however, especially in the evening, when you can sample the district's many restaurants and bars.

You'll need at least a day to take in the prime stops on the modernisme tour—perhaps more accurately called the Gaudi tour—which will take you into the Eixample district. Begin at Mansana de la Discordia, on Passeig de Gracia, where you can get an exterior look at three adjacent buildings built by the three best-known architects of the movement. One of the buildings, Casa Amatller (Passeig de Gracia 41), contains the Ruta del Modernisme office, where you can get maps, brochures and a pass for discounted admission to the other major modernisme sights. Next, head a few blocks north to La Pedrera, Gaudi's amazing apartment building, which now houses several museums. Plan at least two hours to see them and to walk around among the rooftop sculptures. From the roof, you'll be able to see the spires of Sagrada Familia in the distance, and that's your next stop. (You can walk there in a leisurely half-hour jaunt or catch the Metro blue line at the Diagonal Station near La Pedrera.) Close out the day at Gaudi's incredible church. Be sure to go up in the spires for a vertigo-inducing look at the church and the city. A visit to Gaudi's Parc Guell, on the northern side of the city, is also in order, though you will probably have to fit it into another day.

Montjuic, the promontory rising southwest of the city center, merits a day of its own. Both the Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya and Fundacio Joan Miro are found on Montjuic, as are several lesser attractions, including Poble Espanyol (a "theme" attraction with shops and restaurants), the Olympic stadium and Pavello Barcelona. Just strolling around this green area is pleasant, with some nice views over the city. Figure your route ahead of time, however, as Montjuic covers a lot of territory and the attractions are widely spaced.

Given its other artistic leanings, it's not surprising that the performing arts are also well represented in Barcelona. Theater has always enjoyed great vitality in the city. Companies enjoying tremendous popularity include Dagoll Dagom, Els Comediants and La Fura dels Baus, who came to international attention in the spectacular 1992 Olympic opening ceremony. All offer the sort of spellbinding, multidisciplinary spectacles that leap over language barriers. None of these companies has a set schedule or theater venue, however, so watch for listings in the newspapers and entertainment guides.

In dance, Cesc Gelabert and Lydia Azzopardi's Companyia Gelabert-Azzopardi calls Barcelona home. It too has an infrequent performance schedule. Watch for listings. The Liceu Orchestra and Chorus stages well-known operas and concerts at Gran Teatre del Liceu, a plush showplace on La Rambla that was rebuilt in the late 1990s. For tickets, call Servicaixa at 902-332-211.

For orchestral music, Orquestra Simfonica de Barcelona i Nacional de Catalunya (OBC) performs October-May with concerts usually staged Friday-Sunday. Phone 93-247-9300. The Orfeo Catala choir performs at the stunning modernista landmark Palau de la Musica Catalana—which is reason enough to attend. Both OBC and Orfeo Catala tickets are available from Tel-Entrada. Phone 902-101-212.

One unique dance performance that should not be missed is the sardana, Catalonia's national dance. Participants link hands in a large circle and do intricate steps (it looks a lot like the dance performed by the Whoville residents in the How the Grinch Stole Christmas movie). Informal sardana sessions take place every Sunday around noon in front of the Cathedral and in the evening (around 7 pm) in Placa Sant Jaume. The dancers are accompanied by a traditional band called a cobla, and you're welcome to join in the circle if you wish.

Barcelona has always had a reputation as a party town. It's still true, though the emphasis now has more to do with trendy designer bars than seedy sailor dives (though the rougher places are still there, should you wish to find them). Like other parts of Spain, Barcelona's club scene hits its peak in the wee hours and doesn't end until morning—many dance venues remain open until 5 am, while quieter bars close around 1 or 2 am.

Try to set aside one evening for a stroll through the Barri Gotic and see what bars and bodegas the twisting streets lead you to. In warm weather, you'll find that lots of outdoor plazas of the quarter become extensions of the surrounding bars, and performers such as jugglers and musicians often stop by to put on a quick show. Those looking for a little more excitement will find the clubs of Port Vell and Vila Olimpica not too far away.

There are more options outside the city center. In general terms, the farther you go away from the sea, the more upmarket the scene. A young, affluent crowd hangs out in bars and clubs around Santalo and Placa Francesc Macia, while Tibidabo, with its wonderful views over the city, offers an incomparably elegant setting.

BASQUE REGION

Taking its name from the Basque people who live there, this region is located in the northeastern corner of Spain and extends across the border into France. (It's also known as Pais Vasco in Spanish and Euskadi in the Basque language.) The Basques are thought to be descendants of the earliest inhabitants of the Iberian Peninsula, and their very complex language, Euskera, is quite distinct from Spanish and most other European tongues. The Basques have always displayed a strong regional identity. Since the 1700s, they've lobbied for greater self rule, even outright independence from Spain. At times, this struggle has become violent: A Basque separatist group, ETA, has been involved in terrorist attacks. Such incidents have rarely involved tourists, however.

This picturesque area is rough and cultured at the same time. Several days could be spent there driving through the mountain landscape. The cities of Bilbao and San Sebastian are part of the Basque Region.

BENIDORM

Located on the Costa Blanca, Benidorm was a quiet little village with beautiful beaches until the 1960s. The beaches are still there, but the advent of mass tourism and cheap charter flights from England and Germany have given this town a good shaking up: Now it's more akin to a party hot spot than a sleepy fishing village. Concrete apartment blocks clutter the town, and British pubs are crowding out the tapas bars. If you like this type of beach resort, then you'll love Benidorm. If you're primarily interested in a calmer beach vacation with old-style Spanish culture, look elsewhere. 30 mi/50 km north of Alicante.

BILBAO

Set on the banks of the Nervion River in northeastern Spain, Bilbao (pop. 369,000) is the largest city in the Basque region. It used to be primarily an industrial center, with looks to match, but that's beginning to change.

The main catalyst is the futuristic-looking Guggenheim Museum, built in 1997. Designed by architect Frank Gehry and devoted to modern art, the museum's curving metallic walls have made it one of the most celebrated architectural designs of the 1990s. It's the cornerstone of a major redevelopment of the city's waterfront, formerly the site of factories.

Museum goers may also enjoy seeing the Museum of Archaeology and Ethnology (Roman, prehistoric and Iberian exhibits). Other places of interest in the city are the 14th-century Gothic Church of Santiago and Ensanche Park. 200 mi/325 km north of Madrid.

BURGOS

A medieval Gothic cathedral has been drawing pilgrims and visitors to Burgos (pop. 160,000) since 1221. We've seen few examples of Gothic architecture as good as this, and none better (the church is deservedly on UNESCO's list of World Heritage Sites). The town also has a well-preserved Gothic quarter near the cathedral. After walking through the neighborhood's streets, stroll the beautiful riverside promenade—the way is lined with outdoor cafes and shaded by sycamore trees. Be sure to see the larger-than-life equestrian statue of El Cid, the Spanish national hero who once lived in Burgos. Allow a half a day in the city. 130 mi/210 km north of Madrid.

CADIZ

On the southern tip of Spain, the port city of Cadiz (pronounced CA-deeth) has been active since the days of the Roman Empire, when its dancers were famous throughout the Mediterranean region. Today, the city (pop. 154,000) is primarily a departure point for ferry boats to the Canary Islands. Cadiz also boasts the liveliest Carnival celebration in Spain (with the possible exception of Tenerife in the Canary Islands). We suggest a maximum of one night. 305 mi/490 km southwest of Madrid.

CANARY ISLANDS

These islands boast a fair, springlike climate year round. Visitors flock to the islands' casinos, golf courses, tennis courts and natural wonders, including fairly good beaches of white, gold and black sand. We suggest staying at least three nights on any of the following islands:

Fuerteventura—This is the island to go to if you're looking for seclusion, great diving and white-sand beaches.

Gomera—This island, Columbus' last stop for supplies before sailing to the New World, has a laid-back lifestyle, balmy climate, fresh fish and no pollution. While on Gomera, attend Asuncion Church, where Columbus heard mass prior to sailing, and see Torre del Conde, a national monument erected in his honor. Gomera is the least accessible of the major islands in the Canary chain (it has no airport), but ferry service is available from the south side of Tenerife. Very hilly, lush and quiet, it's a nice change from the bustle of the other islands. Garajonay National Park is on Gomera, a place of gorges, hills and forests. Handicrafts can be found in Gomera's main town, San Sebastian. Don't expect much in the way of entertainment on the island. Go instead to appreciate its unspoiled natural beauty.

Gran Canaria—The most-visited island, Gran Canaria is very popular year round with package-tour visitors from other European countries. Gran Canaria offers golfing, yachting, a wide variety of shopping, casinos and great beaches. Las Palmas (pop. 342,000) is the principal city. Despite its poetic name, it's a rather unattractive seaport, although it does have Vegueta, the interesting old quarter. Gran Canaria has the most hotels of any Canary Island. The large numbers of tourists who go there mean that anyone looking for a quiet island getaway should look elsewhere.

Hierro—The smallest island in the Canary chain, Hierro is served by air from Tenerife once a day. Volcanic in nature, Hierro has many verdant valleys and hillsides. The tiny island has few tourist facilities—it's only for those who really want to get away from it all.

Lanzarote—This is our favorite Canary Island, with its white-, black- and gold-sand beaches, 300 volcanoes and a lazy feel in the air. Lanzarote can be a great place to rest—although it has become rather touristy, with new hotels and residential developments popping up like mushrooms to accommodate some 850,000 visitors annually. If you're feeling active, you can ride a camel at the Montana de Fuego (Fire Mountain). There are fine caves, art galleries and museums and a charming vista overlooking the little island of La Graciosa. The late painter Jorge Manrique contributed a lot of grace and flavor to the place. His works range from the interior design at the airport to the revival of many public buildings and preservation of the local architecture. Timanfaya National Park has lava and mineral formations.

La Palma—The greenest and lushest of the Canary Islands, La Palma is fairly small, with very few beaches, a circumstance that has held mass tourism at bay—sun seekers tend to go to the other, larger isles. La Palma is interesting for its pretty towns and steep, rugged geography. Be sure to drive to the summit of Taburiente for a view over the massive volcano (the largest volcanic crater on any of the islands). Some of the mountainous terrain is preserved as part of Caldera de Taburiente National Park, which is filled with Canary pines. It also contains springs, camels to ride and heather growing wild—it's really beautiful. Cigar smokers should take advantage of the high quality, inexpensive hand-rolled cigars that can be purchased everywhere (the cigar-rolling technique came by way of Cuba in the last century). Butterfly lovers will want to make their way to Palmitos Park to see Europe's largest tropical butterfly house. The park is also home to more than 1,500 exotic birds representing 230 species.

Tenerife—Another popular island, Tenerife, the largest of the Canaries, has both flat areas (covered with banana plantations) and mountainous areas. The volcanic Mt. Teide, the centerpeice of Teide National Park, is the highest mountain on Spanish territory at 12,000 ft/3,660 m. It soars above much of the island. Take a tour or drive to the summit and then switch to cable car for the final ascent to the crater rim. The northern side of the island is green and tropical, while the southern side is dry, with near-desert conditions. Tenerife's largest city is Santa Cruz, where you'll find a wide variety of tourist accommodations and activities—including what we think is one of the best Carnival celebrations in Spain (on par with the one in Cadiz). The local wine, the famed malvasia of Shakespeare's time, has pretty much disappeared—the tourist trade lured too many locals out of the vineyards. Also visit Puerto de la Cruz (Tenerife's second-largest city) for its restaurants and shopping. A botanical garden is nearby.

CIUDAD REAL

This city and the region that surrounds it is best known as the Land of La Mancha, popularized by Don Quixote (indeed, there are windmills in the dry plains surrounding the city and in a number of towns in the region). Visit the cathedral, the Church of San Pedro (Byzantine decorations on the facade), the statue of Miguel de Cervantes and Puerta de Toledo (Moorish building). Don Quixote began his wanderings in the nearby town of Puerto Lapice. Other towns in the area worth visiting include Campo de Criptana (several windmills), Consuegra (several windmills and a castle), Villanueva de los Infantes (note the coats of arms) and Almagro (with a Dominican convent and a 17th-century theater, the Corral de Comedias). Ciudad Real is 100 mi/160 km south of Madrid.

CIUDAD RODRIGO

Near the Portuguese border, this old military post and walled city is well worth a two-night visit. Set on the banks of the Agueda River, Ciudad Rodrigo is a fun town to explore: See the eight city gates, walk through its narrow and winding streets and tour the 12th-century cathedral and 15th-century Palacio de los Castro (a beautiful home). Stay at (or at least visit) the Parador Nacional de Enrique II, a castle that's been converted into a hotel. If you're there during Carnival, you can watch the fighting bulls run through barricaded streets. 150 mi/240 km west of Madrid.

CORDOBA

Once called the Athens of the West, this walled Andalusian city was a great center of learning under the Moors. This legacy has left the city (pop. 300,000) with a rich heritage. The 8th-century Mezquita, once Islam's grandest mosque (now a cathedral), is one of the great sights of Spain. The combination of Moorish and Catholic splendor in the interior is enough to make you giddy. Outside the Mezquita is the winding maze of the Jewish Quarter, with charming patios and bright windowboxes. Other sights include the Roman Bridge, the Alcazar (Moorish fortress) and Medina Azahara (Moorish ruins). Plan an overnight in Cordoba. (If you stay in one of the pleasant hotels across from the Mezquita, be aware that the sonorous cathedral bells will ring on the half hour—all night.) Also be prepared for persistent fortune-tellers who will greet you in the streets with a rose and an offer to read your palm. 185 mi/300 km south of Madrid.

COSTA DEL SOL

The Sun Coast has some of the finest beaches in Spain. This famous area stretches 105 mi/170 km along the Mediterranean from Motril (east of Malaga) to Gibraltar. Once a pleasant playground, today's Costa del Sol has, in our opinion, been overdeveloped and overrun by tourists, especially those arriving on package vacations from northern Europe. Expect lots of high-rise condominiums and hotels and a wide selection of golf courses, tennis clubs, casinos, discos and outdoor cafes. Deep-sea fishing and sailing are popular in the waters off the coast. The towns of Malaga, Marbella, Mijas, Nerja and Torremolinos are part of the Costa del Sol.

The tourist region has also spread inland to include some splendid lakes and several quaint fishing and agricultural villages with cobblestone streets and whitewashed houses surrounding town squares (flowers on every windowsill, too). The Costa del Sol is also relatively close to Seville, Granada and the White Villages of Andalusia. Try to visit one or more of these on a day trip or, better yet, on an overnight excursion. (Be forewarned, however: You may not want to go back to the Costa del Sol after you've experienced Andalusia's more sublime character.) The Costa del Sol is 260 mi/420 km south of Madrid.

CUENCA

Cuenca is known for its Hanging Houses, which perch precariously on high cliffs overlooking a river, and for its many modern art museums, including the Spanish Abstract Art Museum. Set inside one of the Hanging Houses, this magnificent museum offers works of Spanish abstract artists and sculptors, Gothic murals and other items. Plan three hours in Cuenca. It's also a good place to shop for ceramics. 100 mi/160 km east of Madrid.

EL ESCORIAL

This mountain town just outside Madrid contains the 16th-century Royal Monastery of El Escorial, which was built as a summer retreat by ascetic Philip II. The monastery-cum-palace, which can be seen in a whirlwind two-hour tour, boasts one of Europe's finest tapestry collections. It also houses sculptures and paintings (including portraits of Spanish royalty) by Spanish and Italian masters. After seeing the portraits, visit the actual tombs of Spanish monarchs. All the kings of the last 500 years, from Charles V to Alfonso XIII, are buried at El Escorial.

Also in town is a fascinating cathedral, with spires 860 ft/260 m tall. Nearby, Valle de los Caidos (Valley of the Fallen) is a monument that supposedly honors those who died in the Spanish Civil War, but actually celebrates dictator Francisco Franco. Allow half a day to visit El Escorial. 25 mi/40 km northwest of Madrid.

ELCHE

This city (pop. 182,000), usually seen as an excursion from Alicante, is famous in Spain for being the site of the discovery of a statue of a woman's head (La Dama de Elche) carved in approximately 500 BC. No one knows its exact origin or whom it represents. The original is in Madrid at the Archaeological Museum, but a copy remains in Elche. This town is also noted for its hundreds of old date-palm trees (descended from trees planted by the Moors). These trees, seen all over the city, are so well regarded that two of them have been specially designated the "royal" trees, their fruit relegated to the reigning monarchs in Madrid. 220 mi/355 km southwest of Madrid.

EXTREMADURA

The Land of the Conquistadores is located along the Portuguese border. The vast majority of Spain's New World conquerors and explorers came out of this harsh region to win an empire for Spain. Today, it's not unusual to travel for great distances through Extremadura's largely empty landscape then suddenly encounter a castle that was built by one of the conquistadores after he had returned with his loot. While the region is rarely visited by tourists, it has several towns of interest.

Merida is known, above all, for its well-preserved Roman theater and aqueduct. Founded in 25 BC, the city holds many other fine Roman ruins, including an amphitheater, bridge, temple and triumphal arch. Caceres is a picture-perfect Gothic town that retains much of its medieval character.

To explore the region's conquistador heritage, seek out the following towns: Medellin, birthplace of Hernan Cortes (conqueror of the Aztec Empire and creator of Mexico); Trujillo, where Francisco Pizarro was born (conqueror of the Inca Empire and founder of Peru); and Jerez de los Caballeros, birthplace of Nunez de Balboa and Hernan de Soto, European explorers of the Pacific Ocean and Mississippi River, respectively. Another town worth seeing is Guadalupe, where Columbus received the official orders for his first voyage.

Extremadura is particularly recommended for those who might be traveling by car to or from Portugal or who just want to see a part of Spain that's very rustic and relatively unaffected by tourism. A new bridge spans the Guadiana River, making it easier to go from Spain to Portugal's Algarve coast. (Be sure your car has air-conditioning if you're crossing Extremadura in the summer, however: This is hot country.)

FIGUERAS

Located near the border with France and just inland from the Mediterranean, Figueras is famous as the hometown of surrealist painter Salvador Dali. The town's Salvador Dali Museum is a must-see and one of the most popular museums in Spain. Dali designed it himself, and it echoes his bizarre and flamboyant personality (the loaves of bread adorning the exterior give you an early indication of what's in store). There are lots of paintings, but we were more interested in the exhibits the artist designed especially for the museum: coin-operated mechanical displays, elaborate room-sized installations, a Cadillac filled with plants and more. Dali's crypt is one more part of the puzzle. Even people who hate art museums will enjoy this one—kids especially.

Those who want to get more Daliesque should put a fish in their suitcase and head to nearby Cadaques, where Dali lived for much of his life. It's a beautiful, upscale resort town on the Mediterranean, somewhat removed from other coastal cities (you get there by way of a hair-raising ride over steep mountain roads). Dali's house in the Port Lligat area is open to visitors and has plenty more wacky stuff. Figueras is 365 mi/585 km northeast of Madrid.

FORMENTERA

This attractive Balearic Island has salt marshes, orchards, farmers and fishermen. Reached by ferry from the island of Ibiza, Formentera is very small and quiet, with no high-rise tourist developments marring the landscape. The inhabitants seem to prefer a slower pace and want to keep it that way. 300 mi/475 km southeast of Madrid.

GIBRALTAR

This British colony (pop. 31,000) is grafted onto a steep, rocky Spanish hillside at the mouth of the Mediterranean Sea. It merits at least a half-day's visit. The Rock, which has been British since 1704, is only 2 mi/5 km long, but it has several attractions, among them St. Michael's Cave (outfitted as a hospital during World War II, it's now an auditorium), the Gibraltar Museum (historical displays from the Stone Age to the present) and a 12th-century Moorish castle.

Be sure to read the tombstones at the town graveyard—many of the British sailors killed during the Siege of Gibraltar (1779-83) are buried there. Also climb or take the cable car to the top of the Rock to see the view from Europa Point. At the halfway station, you'll meet the Barbary apes, Europe's only wild apes. There is also a laser show depicting famous battles for the Rock. If you tire of Spanish cuisine, stop in a pub and get an order of steak-and-kidney pie or fish-and-chips (the contrast may revive your interest in Spanish food). Gibraltar is so cramped for space that the airport runway is crossed by a main road—signals stop traffic long enough for airplanes to land. 310 mi/500 km south of Madrid.

GIRONA

A small but ancient city, Girona dates back to the Roman era and provides a welcome break from the surrounding Costa Brava seaside resorts. Its narrow medieval streets and alleyways lead to staircases that climb to churches and houses. Visit the 11th-century cathedral and Jewish Quarter, and walk up the Carrer de la Forca, an ancient street. Also see the pastel-colored houses beside the Onar River, and browse among the shops in the medieval section of town (surrounding the cathedral). 360 mi/575 km northeast of Madrid.

GRANADA

Probably the main reason to go to Granada (pop. 254,000) is to visit the magnificent Alhambra, built by the Moors in the 13th century. The complex of palaces, fortress and gardens is simply not to be missed—plan to spend the better part of a day touring it. During warmer months, the palaces are open at night. Viewing the Court of the Lions by moonlight is one of the great experiences in the world—something you'll remember for the rest of your life. You'll understand why the last Moorish ruler in Granada was said to have wept when he was forced to leave the Alhambra.

While you're in town visit the Albaicin (the old Moorish section—but watch out for pickpockets and purse snatchers) and the Royal Chapel (the tombs of Ferdinand and Isabella are in the magnificent cathedral). Also worth seeing is the Monastery of the Cartuja, a church in fascinating Spanish rococo style. The Sierra Nevada ski station is 20 mi/35 km away in the nearby mountains and has good skiing, decent hotels, restaurants and equipment rental shops. Granada is 225 mi/360 km south of Madrid.

GUADALAJARA

In the city of Guadalajara (pop. 80,000), set on a high plateau above the plains of Castile, you'll find the Church of Santa Maria de la Fuente (with beautiful Moorish doors) and the 15th-century Palacio del Infantado, masterfully carved out of stone. The palace also has a fine-arts museum and library of ancient manuscripts. Visit Guadalajara on a day trip from Madrid. 30 mi/50 km northeast of Madrid.

IBIZA

Though it can be on the dirty side in places, the Balearic Island of Ibiza (pronounced ee-BEE-tha) will appeal to those who like an informal atmosphere. Increasingly, we limit our visits to off-season—Ibiza is flooded with tourists in the summer, and among those who have discovered the island are the notorious lager louts (who see their vacation as a time to stay drunk in a foreign land instead of at home). The island also draws a large number of gay visitors. Nightlife, especially in the glitzy discos, is a big part of the Ibiza experience. The island has whitewashed coastal villages, pine groves and quite good beaches. 290 mi/470 km southeast of Madrid.

MADRID

If it's your first visit to Madrid, you may wonder when anything gets done. Madrilenos, as the city's residents are called, seem to spend most of their time eating, drinking and enjoying life: Their long lunches are legendary, they spend their evenings hopping from tapas bar to tapas bar, and eventually—sometimes as late as midnight—they get around to eating dinner.

The cynics in Spain think this breezy approach to life has something to do with Madrid's main industry—government. But don't confuse Madrilenos' appreciation for living with a bureaucratic, slothful or superficial nature. They love passion and drama, from El Greco's mystical paintings to the mournful beauty of flamenco to the intense pas de deux of matador and bull. If you pause to listen to the troubadours as you're walking the narrow streets of old Madrid, or you observe a man as he bows to kiss a lady's hand, you'll discover the soul of both the city and the nation.

Though Madrid is best known as a museum city, we suggest you begin your visit by getting to know the city's interesting old section. Start with Calle Mayor and Plaza Mayor, which are lined by beautiful and historic buildings (plan several hours for this section). Then visit the Palacio Real, the royal palace, with its own art treasures and crown jewels. Plaza de las Cibeles and Puerta del Sol are two major intersections, each with fountains, monuments and shops. As you walk the streets, you never know what you'll find around the next corner—a festive tapas bar, a wedding party spilling out of a medieval church, a pack of meandering troubadours. The most indelible sight you see is likely to be a spontaneous one.

Then, set aside some time for Madrid's museums—a lot of time. Days could be spent in the halls of the Prado alone. Housed in an 18th-century building, the Prado features the works of Rubens, Goya, El Greco, Bosch (including his masterpiece The Garden of Earthly Delights), Velazquez, Titian and many others. Madrid's famous contemporary art museum is the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia. Its centerpiece is Picasso's enormous antiwar (and anti-Franco) masterpiece, Guernica. The fabulous, and now public, works of the Thyssen collection are displayed at the Villahermosa Palace. Other artwork can be seen at the 16th-century Convent of the Descalzas Reales, a cloistered convent in the heart of downtown Madrid that's known for its collection of religious art, tapestries and wood carvings. (Don't miss the rather bizarre collection of infant Jesus dolls wearing baby clothes made by nuns.)

It's quite possible to get museumed-out in Madrid. If this happens, take a rest at one of the many beautiful parks and lakes in the city. One of the nicest parks we've seen anywhere is Retiro Park, near the Prado. We like to rent a rowboat and glide among the swans that rule the park's small lake.

When it comes to the performing arts, Madrid compares well with the rest of Europe's capitals. The city has a fine lineup of national and international classical music offerings—quality performances, new ensembles and an array of halls with clean sound and lovely surroundings. Madrid is also Spain's top showcase for the fusion that, for the past few years, has been evolving between modern dance and flamenco, the country's own traditional art form. The city is also the best place for zarzuela, a home-grown style of operetta that's often described as comic opera.

You can obtain tickets easily enough for most events from the box office or from ticket brokers. It's a good idea to call the venue for information about advance ticket sales, as they usually contract out this service to different ticket brokers. Most venues also sell tickets on the day of the show up to 30 minutes before the performance.

Madrid is a nocturnal city: There's almost more to do in the wee hours than in the daytime, and traffic jams at 4 am aren't unusual. Some clubs stay open past breakfast time. During the summer months, terraza bars spring up along busy Calle Castellana in front of Plaza de Colon and Plaza de Cibeles and are open until early morning. Cafe theaters provide a variety of shows, and you can readily find live music, from flamenco to salsa. Flamenco, especially, is very important in Madrid. In this genre are some 60 classical songs and dances, some of them performed solo, some in groups, some with instrumental accompaniment, some a cappella. The dancing includes much swirling of skirts and stamping of heels.

From about 9 pm on, young people flock into the area of Bilbao-Malasana: There's plenty of rock 'n' roll, hip-hop, punk rock and other sounds to delight the independent music fan. Also, visiting the bars of the Chueca and Malasana districts or down south on Calle Huertas could easily fill every night of your stay.

MALAGA

Almost in the center of the Costa del Sol, Malaga (pop. 512,000) is actually three cities—old, new and "scenic" Malaga. It's slightly on the touristy side, and the beaches, at least in Malaga proper, are dreadfully polluted. (The better ones, still not great, are farther west, from Torremolinos to Sotogrande.) Still, the area's scenery keeps it popular. Visit the 16th-century cathedral (note the wood carvings) and the remains of the 12th-century Moorish fortress Alcazaba. Nearby are a Roman amphitheater and the Gibralfaro, the ruins of a Moorish castle. Pablo Picasso was born in Malaga and his house can be visited. It contains a large collection of the artist's engravings. See the botanical gardens, then stop at a bodega (wine cellar) to taste the Malaga wine. Save some time to shop on Calle Larios.

From mid January to mid February, several fiestas are celebrated. There are also international yachting regattas, golf tournaments, motorcycle rallies, the Round Andalusia Bicycle Tour and horse and boat races. Easter week features an eight-day fiesta (much better than the fiestas offered in January and February), including bullfights, a fair, a parade and, of course, huge crowds. If you're not going for a special event, Malaga can be seen in one or two nights. If you've seen other major Spanish cities such as Madrid, Seville, Barcelona or Granada, you may want to skip Malaga completely. 260 mi/420 km south of Madrid.

MALLORCA

Mallorca (pronounced my-YOR-ka), the largest of the Balearic Islands, is also the most popular. It draws a lot of visitors from the colder climes of Europe, though it retains a bit more of its traditional flavor than the Costa del Sol, another package-tour haven.

Palma de Mallorca is the largest (pop. 325,000) and most cosmopolitan city in the Balearics. In spite of its worldliness, winding alleyways can still be found in Palma. The city's best attractions are an impressive Gothic cathedral, the Old City, Bellver Castle, the Convent of St. Francis and Palacio Vivot.

Try to make a journey away from Palma to get a better feel for the island. It has lots of windmills dotting the hills. One destination is Valldemosa, a picturesque highland village. It's the home of La Cartuja (a former monastery) and the nearby La Granja working museum. George Sand and Frederick Chopin stayed at Valldemosa in the winter of 1838, and Chopin wrote some of his familiar piano pieces there.

If you are looking for a more out-of-the-way village, try Petra, the birthplace of Fray Junipero Serra, the 18th-century Franciscan missionary who founded the chain of Spanish missions and settlements along the California coast. 345 mi/ 555 km east of Madrid.

MARBELLA

In a glorious setting at the foot of the Sierra Blanca Mountains, the Costa del Sol town of Marbella (pronounced mar-BAY-ya) shows evidence of having been a Roman, Moorish and Andalusian city. It's a popular vacation spot for wealthy Europeans and Arabs, and a modern Arab flavor is clearly evident. Its narrow streets, lined with whitewashed buildings, now experience traffic jams, but it still has fantastic shopping and restaurants, good nightlife and several acceptable beaches in and near town. Newly built fountains and thousands of recently planted trees grace the seaside promenade. Its major fiesta occurs in the middle of June.

Along the coast just south of Marbella is the jet-set resort of Puerto Banus (a small port full of yachts and expensive sailboats). The promenade is lined with restaurants, bars, outdoor cafes, expensive boutiques and arts-and-crafts stores. Go for lunch or dinner or simply to have a drink and people watch. An alternative excursion is Estepona, which has a yacht harbor and lots of nightlife. 280 mi/450 km south of Madrid.

MELILLA

This Spanish enclave lies on the northern coast of Morocco. Although today it's a backwater, Melilla (pronounced may-LEE-ya) was founded as a Phoenician trading post and has been in Spanish hands since the late 15th century. Visit the older section called Medina Sidonia and the municipal museum. Ferries arrive from both Malaga and Almeria. 360 mi/580 km south of Madrid.

MENORCA

One of the Balearic Islands, Menorca has good sandy beaches and a relaxed atmosphere. Unlike Mallorca and Ibiza, Menorca has escaped the worst of mass tourism and continues to be a relatively low-key destination—it's the last of the Balearics to choose if you're looking for a party spot, but a great place to rest and relax. Scattered villages and pine groves dot the island. 425 mi/680 km east of Madrid.

MIJAS

Mijas (pronounced MEE-hahs) is a picturesque Costa del Sol village with a distinctly Arab feel. Visit its ancient bullring and the Lady of the Rock Church (carved into a hillside rock). Donkeys can be hired to transport you around the town. 270 mi/435 km south of Madrid.

MURCIA

This quiet city (pop. 319,000) is off the beaten track, but rather interesting if you're in the area. The city, inhabited since Roman times, was briefly the capital of its own kingdom. See the cathedral and Bishop's Palace and several historic churches. The Provincial Archaeological Museum includes Roman and Punic displays. Don't miss the Museo Salzillo, which displays fascinating religious figures at Easter. 220 mi/350 km southeast of Madrid.

NATIONAL PARKS

There are 10 national parks in Spain (including four in the Canary Islands). Each is quite different, ranging from desert to mountains. The parks on the mainland are best seen by rental car. There are numerous smaller parks and wildlife reserves, but the major parks not covered elsewhere in the report are as follows:

Aigues Tortes y Lago de San Mauricio—This park sits in dramatic mountainous scenery (the Pyrenees) near the border with Andorra. Great for hiking, skiing and mountain climbing.

Cazorla—In the province of Jaen, this nature park and hunting reservation has nice mountains and lots of wildlife, including boar, deer and the Spanish ibex.

Covadonga—Spain's first national park (founded in 1918), Covadonga is set in the spectacular mountain range, the Picos de Europa. Attractions include a chapel and a large religious shrine.

Donana—Europe's largest bird reserve and national park, Donana is located on the Atlantic near the Portuguese border (southwest of Seville). Millions of birds stop there on their winter migrations.

Ordesa—This park near Huesca in the Pyrenees has beautiful mountain scenery.

NERJA

Perched on a cliff, Nerja is a popular international Costa del Sol seaside resort. It has excellent beaches, though in our opinion not as nice as those farther south along the coast. Visitors can avail themselves of the rowboat facilities, clear water and isolated coves. Like so many areas of the Costa del Sol, Nerja attracts many English and Scandinavian emigres, who settle in villa complexes, apartments and retirement villages.

A nearby attraction is La Cueva de Nerja, a vast stalactite cave that resembles an underground cathedral. Traces of Paleolithic-era paintings, as well as stone weapons and tools, have been found inside. Special music and dance performances are sometimes held in one of the caves. 10 mi/16 km east of Malaga.

OVIEDO

Located in the northern province of Asturias, Oviedo (pop. 195,000) has several historic buildings, including the outstanding Gothic cathedral and the attached Camara Santa, an earlier church built in 802. Also worth visiting are Oviedo's Asturian churches, which also date from the 800s. Among them are Santa Maria del Naranco and San Miguel de Lillo, both on the Monte del Naranco overlooking the city. The city also has an archaeological museum with a good collection of ancient sculptures. 230 mi/370 km northwest of Madrid.

PAMPLONA

Also known as Iruna (its Basque name), Pamplona is a prosperous, devout and usually conservative town of 179,000. The city is set in a pretty, hilly part of the province of Navarra, near the border with France, and has several nice plazas and a cathedral decorated with beautiful stained glass.

The town's sedate personality gets turned upside down during the fiesta of San Fermin that runs 6-14 July each year. Immortalized in Hemingway's The Sun Also Rises, the fiesta's most famous event is the running of the bulls. Each morning at 8 am, the brave, foolish or drunk take to the narrow, barricaded streets to run alongside six fighting bulls. Less dangerous (but still exhausting) are the other activities that run the full week of the festival: parades of giant figures, maurauding bands, fireworks, endless dancing and lots and lots of drinking.

If, like us, you can only handle a day or two of such merriment, try to make it to the first day or two of the fiesta. The celebration that explodes at noon on 6 July is an incredible sight (plan to be soaked by champagne). If you hope to stay in the city, accommodations should be booked at least a year in advance—be sure to get a room facing away from the street because the noise is relentless. 195 mi/315 km northeast of Madrid.

PICOS DE EUROPA

This mountain range in Asturias is a great place for hiking. The Cares Gorge Trail, 15 mi/24 km long, passes through a towering limestone gorge on a path hewn out of rock. On this and many other trails, you can see mountain goats, golden eagles and sometimes Pyrenean desmans (moles), chamois and wild boar. Accommodations of some sort can be found in most area villages. In summer, take a hat, good walking shoes and sunglasses, as it's hot and the sun's bright. 205 mi/330 km northwest of Madrid.

PONTEVEDRA

Located on the Atlantic coast in far northwestern Spain, Pontevedra is an unspoiled town of ancient cobblestone streets and stone houses that's good for a day of exploring. Wander around the Zona Monumental (old quarter), see the Museo de Historia, which includes an interesting collection of rare jewelry. Be sure to enjoy some fish and wine at a local bar. 290 mi/465 km northwest of Madrid.

SALAMANCA

Originally a fortified Roman camp, this historic university town (pop. 163,000) with narrow cobblestone streets and buildings carved from a unique golden stone is an architectural delight. The town used to be a summer resort for Madrid's wealthiest families, and it retains an air of propriety. Plaza Mayor, surrounded by four-story buildings with baroque ironwork, is one of the most beautiful in Spain (and, until 150 years ago, the site of bullfights). Outdoor cafes surround the square, and the streets that lead from it have great shopping (especially clothing and shoe boutiques). Visit the side-by-side Romanesque Catedral Vieja and the Gothic Catedral Nueva ("New" Cathedral—built 1513-1733), as well as the 15th-century Casa de las Conchas (the House of Shells—covered with skillfully carved seashells, grillwork and coats of arms).

The focus of the town, however, is the university, which was founded in 1215 by Alfonso IX. The 16th-century facade is a virtual flea market of decoration. According to legend, those who spot the frog on one of the three carved skulls the first time they look will always have good luck and be married within the year. Salamanca hosts a weeklong fiesta in September that includes parades, outdoor music, street dancing and bullfights. 130 mi/210 km northwest of Madrid.

SAN SEBASTIAN

This beautiful Basque city (pop. 170,000) is picturesque, expensive and one of the most fashionable spots to spend the summer in Spain. The town sits on three hills ringing a crescent bay called La Concha (the Shell). The beaches are packed with sun bathers in the summer, and the town takes on a wonderful, festive atmosphere. For a break from the beach, visit the Old Town, which is filled with Spanish bars, restaurants and fishmongers (be sure to try the excellent Basque cuisine). In September, the town also hosts one of Europe's finest film festivals. San Sebastian makes a good base for day trips into the surrounding region. 220 mi/350 km northeast of Madrid.

SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA

In the Middle Ages, Santiago de Compostela was the third most important religious pilgrimage site after Jerusalem and Rome (according to legend, the apostle James is buried there). Today, it recalls its glory with the Fiesta de Santiago held every year on 25 July and the Holy Year Jubilees, celebrated every year that the fiesta falls on a Sunday. Bordering the town square is an 11th-century Romanesque- and baroque-style cathedral (which contains the tomb of the apostle). Also on the square is the Town Hall and the Hostal de los Reyes Catolicos, a great parador built by Ferdinand and Isabella. Be sure to see the view of the town from Heradurra Park.

Santiago makes a great base for exploring Galicia, the surrounding region. Galicia is very different from the rest of the country—it could be mistaken for Scotland or Ireland. Bagpipes, misty fields, rocky cliffs, stone villages, a different language (Gallego, akin to Portuguese) and a strong Gaelic/Celtic influence are the more obvious similarities. Galicia is known for the quality and variety of its excellent seafood dishes. Specific destinations include the Pontevedra, Vigo and La Coruna (45 mi/75 km to the north, on the coast), a modern town that has the Hercules Tower, the only operating Roman lighthouse left in the world (it dates from the Celtic period).

The Transcantabrico, a narrow-gauge luxury train, makes a weeklong trip from Santiago to San Sebastian and back again, with bus tours into local towns and villages. If possible, take the train at least one way for spectacular scenery. The entire Galicia area is charming, feels authentic and is seldom visited by North Americans. Plan to spend about four days there. 300 mi/485 km northwest of Madrid.

SEGOVIA

A perfectly preserved Roman aqueduct is the fitting symbol of this 2,000-year-old city: It's full of structures from the past performing the duties of the present, including many shops, restaurants and hotels housed in ancient buildings. The 1,800-ft/550-m aqueduct provides water for most of the city's fountains. Elsewhere along the winding streets you'll find a 16th-century cathedral, monuments—look for the statue of the Roman wolf suckling Romulus and Remus—and several monasteries. It was at Segovia's Alcazar that Isabella was crowned queen. The throne room in the castle has a magnificent handcrafted gold-leaf and ivory ceiling. Segovia is a very pleasant city and an easy day trip from Madrid. 45 mi/70 km northwest of Madrid.

SEVILLE

Spend at least two nights in Seville (pop. 659,000) to absorb its captivating atmosphere. It's full of twisting, narrow streets overhung by balconies, grand churches, beautiful gardens, squares and parks. Already a major trading center when the Romans conquered the Iberian Peninsula, it became the most important city in Spain during the Spanish colonial period, when it had a monopoly on trade with the Americas.

The city's cathedral is one of the world's largest in the Gothic style—trying to get a sense of its size (or to get a picture of the building) is difficult because it's hemmed in by so many other structures. Try to see it at night, when it's lighted. Inside, four statues hold up a casket that's said to contain the remains of Christopher Columbus, though that's a matter of some contention: The city of Santo Domingo in the Dominican Republic also claims to have the explorer's bones. Attached to the cathedral is the Giralda, a tower that once served as the minaret for the mosque that occupied the site before the Cathedral was built. You can climb a series of interior ramps to the top of the tower—it offers a superb view of the city.

Just across from the cathedral is the entrance to the Alcazar, the magnificent royal residence that dates to the 1300s. It shows the exquisite craft work of Mudejar artisans—Moors working for the Christian rulers that had conquered the area. In addition to the intricate details of the tile work, the Alcazar has an extensive complex of gardens graced by orange trees.

Adjacent to the cathedral and Alcazar is the old Barrio Santa Cruz. Once the city's Jewish Quarter, it's made up of twisting medieval streets and is the most picturesque part of the city. At night, Santa Cruz is a hot spot for bars and restaurants, and the hotels in the area make a good, central base from which to explore. Seville is the spiritual home of flamenco, and several clubs in the Santa Cruz district present performances. Another good area for nightlife is the Triana district, across the river from Santa Cruz and the cathedral. It runs along the water and has lots of eateries and pleasant bars. There, as elsewhere in Seville, restaurants take advantage of the warm, dry climate and place most of their tables outside. It's unusual to find a public square that isn't full of diners.

Thanks to Expo '92, Seville and its suburbs underwent multimillion-dollar improvements. Buildings and monuments were given a face-lift, and new highways and rail lines, including a high-speed line connecting the city with Madrid, now serve Seville and the surrounding area. The Expo '92 fairgrounds are on La Cartuja Island in the Guadalquivir River.

The city is justly famous for two festivals. Semana Santa (Holy Week) takes place just prior to Easter. It's an amazing display of elaborate parades with traditional floats and somber music. La Feria, which occurs during the last week in April, is a wonderful city fair, featuring plenty of food, fun and flamenco. 245 mi/390 km southwest of Madrid.

SITGES
This tiny but lively seaside resort is a 30-minute train ride southwest of Barcelona. A relaxed and casual attitude pervades: You can sip cafe con leche in shorts and T-shirt at its many cafes, and there are some excellent restaurants. Most visitors while away their days on the beach and their nights in the discos. The town is popular with gay and straight visitors from all over Europe and is gaining popularity with travelers from the U.S.

The Museu Cau Ferrat was the home studio of artist and writer Santiago Rusinol. It contains an eclectic collection that features the art of Rusinol's friends, including Pablo Picasso, as well as some lesser known works by El Greco. Next door, the Museu Maricel de Mar has paintings from medieval to modern and a large collection of ceramics and sculpture. The Museu Romantic offers a glimpse into the lives of the well to do in the 1700s and 1800s, with interesting furniture and a large doll collection. Two festivals of note take place in Sitges: Carnaval, usually in February, and Corpus Christi, on 6 June, when the streets are carpeted with flowers in different designs. 290 mi/465 km east of Madrid.

TARIFA

The windsurfing capital of Europe, Tarifa is on the southernmost tip of the Iberian Peninsula. Winds blow virtually every day of the year—trees have difficulty growing, but thousands of windsurfers love it. Tarifa is also an easy jumping-off point to Morocco. Ferries and hydrofoils make the round trip to Tangier daily (try to reserve tickets ahead of time). 325 mi/520 km south of Madrid.

TARRAGONA

Beautifully situated on a rocky hill overlooking the Mediterranean, Tarragona has enough to fill two or three days, though it can also be seen on a day trip from Barcelona. Naturally fortified, this strategic location was the home base for Roman troops that conquered the Iberian peninsula and later became an elegant and cultured Roman capital. Today, Tarragona boasts one of Spain's highest concentrations of Roman ruins.

A good place to start is the Passeig Arqueologic, a walking tour that encircles the northern half of the city, following a path between the Roman walls built in the AD 200s and British fortification walls from the 1700s. Roman columns and bronze statuary depicting Roman gentry are found all along this fascinating route. Other sights include an amphitheater and an aqueduct known as the Devil's Bridge that lies outside the original city walls (buses to the aqueduct depart regularly from the old-town area). About 20 minutes outside the city lies Arco de Bara, a Roman triumphal arch.

Several museums highlight the city's past. Museu Nacional Arqueologic provides an overview of the excavations that have taken place around town and has some lovely glass, pottery, jewelery and mosaics. Museu Diocesano offers religious artifacts and other beautiful church-related treasures. Casa Museu de Castellarnau is housed in a medieval mansion. The courtyard is the true draw, but there's a small collection of historical items, including Catalan furniture.

Tarragona is also a good place to relax on the beach, possessing a quieter atmosphere than some of the other seaside resorts in the vicinity. It is becoming increasingly industrialized, however, especially on the south side of town. 260 mi/420 km east of Madrid.

TOLEDO

This beautiful city on the Tagus River has a long history—Toledo was the capital of Roman Spain, center of the Visigoth kingdom, and manufacturing center of high-quality Toledo steel and swords (cheap imitations of which are still sold locally). Toledo is also where El Greco lived and painted. It's a great city to stroll through, as the strong Moorish, Jewish and Christian influences are evident in the narrow winding streets. It's one of the few old cities in Spain where a Jewish population still resides in its historic Jewish quarter.

Don't miss El Greco's home (now a museum) and the Museum of Santa Cruz (there are beautiful tapestries inside, but also note the bullet holes on the outside walls—they're from the Spanish Civil War). The Alcazar, which was restored by Franco after devastating damage during the Civil War, has been transformed into a military museum—an eerie, rather bone-chilling collection of arms and armor. During our last visit, they were piping in the theme song from Man of La Mancha, lending a surreal air to the place.

Some of the city's fine houses of worship include the vast, awe-inspiring Gothic cathedral, the Cristo de la Luz Mosque and the tiny Chapel of Saint Tome, which houses El Greco's The Burial of the Conde de Orgaz, which many consider his finest painting. In the Jewish Quarter, you'll find the 14th-century El Transito—once a synagogue, it now houses the Sephardim Museum—and the Synagogue of Santa Maria la Blanca.

Reserve some time to sit in a cafe in one of the squares (we enjoy Plaza de Zocodover) or stop in a local tavern. You can also tour the Toledo gold-jewelry factories, or if time doesn't allow this, you can at least pause to watch some of the goldsmiths in their shops. Toledo is especially beautiful at night, when the tour groups are gone and the narrow streets are lit by wrought-iron lanterns.

If you're there in the height of summer and the city is crowded with tourists, a nice refuge (or an overnight spot) is the Parador Nacional Conde de Orgaz, high on a hilltop over the city on a bend in the river. Though it's not right in town, the inconvenience is more than made up by the spectacular views from the terraces and the rear rooms (the vista is similar to the one portrayed in El Greco's famous View of Toledo). Most visitors see Toledo on a day's excursion from Madrid or while driving to Granada, but we suggest spending at least one night to absorb the atmosphere. 40 mi/75 km southwest of Madrid.

TORREMOLINOS

Many years ago, Torremolinos was as an old Costa del Sol fishing village set atop a cliff, with two long, wide sandy beaches, an old mill tower (for which the town is named), whitewashed houses and flowers. But that was before the advent of mass travel by air and the cheap package tour. Torremolinos was the first town on the Costa del Sol to be extensively developed for tourism and now looks considerably worse for the wear. If you're looking for peace and tranquillity and a quiet beach atmosphere, you won't find it in Torremolinos.

You will hear many languages being spoken in these parts (many Northern Europeans spend a month or two of the winter in this mild climate). Pubs, beer halls, cafes, smorgasbords and reflections of other international tastes mix with the local Spanish flavor. There are dozens of clubs, bars and discos for nightlife, and flamenco dance performances are easy to find. The nearby town of Benalmadena has yet more hotels and resorts. While in the area, you can visit the nearby towns of Ronda, Mijas, Malaga, Nerja and Marbella. 270 mi/430 km south of Madrid.

VALENCIA

Valencia is famous for food and revelry—it's the home of paella and Las Fallas, a weeklong fiesta in March that climaxes with the burning of hundreds of enormous papier-mache figures. This city of 753,000 is located in the fairly dry, rugged and hilly terrain that's perfect for growing Valencia oranges—in fact, citrus and other crops grown in the region make it the agricultural center of Spain.

Visit Valencia's historical museum and cathedral, its beautifully preserved Gothic area and Spain's largest indoor food market, which is filled with fresh produce, meats and fish. In summer, try paella in one of the restaurants along the beach. Near Valencia is the restored Roman theater at Sagunto. In 1993, the theater started offering musical and dramatic performances for the first time in nearly 1,500 years. Make Valencia an overnight stop, except during Fallas, when you need at least two nights. 190 mi/300 km east of Madrid.

VALLADOLID

The city where Ferdinand married Isabella and where Columbus died is rather prosaically set in the middle of a dusty plateau on the Pisuerga River. Though much of Valladolid (pop. 328,000) is modern and unattractive, it rates a visit for the sculpture museum (Museo Nacional de Escultura Religiosa) alone. Outstanding Spanish Renaissance works are on display there. History buffs can see the house where the discoverer of the New World passed on to the next world. The San Pablo church, Santa Maria la Antigua (Gothic) and the never-finished main cathedral are all worth a visit. The town also has diocesan, archaeological and East Asian (Japanese and Philippine) art museums. 100 mi/160 km northwest of Madrid.

VIGO

Vigo (pop. 275,000) is a historic port town in the far northwestern part of Spain. The picturesque Islas Cies, which protect Vigo from the sea, are the prime local attraction. Boats visit the islands June-September only. 290 mi/470 km northwest of Madrid.

WHITE VILLAGES

The pueblos blancos (white villages) of Andalusia can be visited along any number of routes, using one of the villages or perhaps the cities of Seville, Jerez de la Frontera or Cadiz as a base. They lie within the triangle formed by the coasts of the Atlantic (the Costa de la Luz) and the Mediterranean (the Costa del Sol) to the south and the Sierra de Algodonales to the north. These ancient whitewashed villages, most of Moorish origin, cling to the mountainsides in perilous splendor—they gleam like jewels from a distance. The roads winding through the region are narrow and terrifying, but the views are as breathtaking as any in Spain. There are 10 or so towns of note, but a few are standouts.

Ronda is probably the best town to base yourself in, because it's one of the largest in the region. Its setting is spectacular: The town is surrounded by mountains and split by a deep river gorge. The tall whitewashed buildings cling to the walls of the steep gorge, while a graceful arched bridge connects the two sides of town. Ronda also has one of Spain's oldest bullrings, built in 1784. A fascinating museum explains the town's important role in the development of the sport. Each year in early September, the town hosts a colorful fiesta and bullfight, with many participants wearing costumes in the style of the late 1700s: Reserve accommodations and bullfight tickets well in advance if you plan to attend.

To the west, the tiny town of Zahara winds up a rock pinnacle and overlooks a lake. Plan to take a few hours to stroll the steep streets, pausing in a cafe or restaurant to rest your legs. If you go all the way to the top of the outcropping, you'll get to explore a small fortress that was built by the Moors. The view is superb.

Arcos de la Frontera, west of Zahara, is arranged along a steep cliff (with an upper town atop it and a lower town beneath). It's also well set up for tourists, with a lovely parador in a former castle looking over a gorge (its bar affords great views of orchards, olive groves and vineyards spread on the plain below). We prefer to see Arcos on a daytrip rather than spending the night there, however: The squadrons of kids that buzz up and down the streets on mopeds get annoying after a few hours. Historic sites in town include the 16th-century Parroquia de Santa Maria (St. Mary's Parish Church), which boasts of the remains of St. Felix (on display in a glass case), and the Gothic Parroquia de San Pedro, perched on the edge of a cliff, which lost out to Parroquia de Santa Maria in a battle over which church would get the remains.

Continuing to the west, you'll reach Jerez de la Frontera (pop. 183,000). The town is most famous as the home of sherry (the anglicized version of the word jerez), and the wine cellars, or bodegas, can be visited (open on weekday mornings year-round, with the exception of August, when all are closed). The Real Escuela Andaluza de Arte Ecuestre (Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art) is a prestigious riding school that puts on exhibitions starring their prancing steeds, usually on Thursday at noon. The 11th-century ruins of the Moorish Alcazar are also worth a visit.

ZARAGOZA

Capital of Aragon, Zaragoza (pop. 586,000) is a must-see. Not only does it have Aljaferia, an 11th-century Moorish palace, but it also boasts two world-class museums, each housed in a restored palace: Museo Pablo Gargallo (dedicated to the sculptor) and Museo Camon Aznar (artworks). Roman walls, churches (such as Basilica de Nuestra Senora del Pilar) and other museums (including the Sacristy and Tapestry Museum and Museo Provincial de Bellas Artes) complete the picture. 170 mi/275 km northeast of Madrid.

© Copyright: John Nelson