DESTINATION GUIDES > COUNTRIES

Ecuador

Don't plan on rushing through Ecuador: You'll need some time to appreciate the remarkable collection of landscapes, animals, plants and people that are found in each part of the country. (You'll also find that the transportation system often prevents you from rushing anywhere.)

The most remarkable species of birds and animals are found on the Galapagos Islands, which lie more than 600 mi/970 km offshore. Marine iguanas, giant tortoises, sea lions, boobies, pelicans, even a few penguins -- it was these island residents that inspired Charles Darwin to form his theory of evolution.

Back on the mainland, the Andes Mountains (also known as the Sierra) are home to the capital city, Quito, which has some of the finest colonial architecture in the Americas. The mountains are a sight in themselves -- two chains of snowcapped peaks known as the Avenue of the Volcanoes (a name coined by the great German naturalist and explorer Alexander von Humboldt). In the smaller towns and villages of the Sierra, you'll see the descendants of Inca peoples, many of whom wear distinctive clothing and hats that identify them as residents of a particular area.

East of the Andes is the Amazon basin (or Oriente). This interior jungle region, cut through with rivers and streams, offers a fine opportunity to see the flora and fauna of the rain forest and to visit Amazonian tribes. West of the Andes are the coastal lowlands and Ecuador's largest city, the port of Guayaquil. That area is very hot and humid most of the year. Ecuadorans flock to the beaches of the Pacific coast, but these aren't as attractive or interesting to foreign visitors as are the Sierra and the Oriente...

Where to Go

AMAZON BASIN

East of the Andean highlands, Ecuador becomes jungle—a place of lowland rain forest cut by hundreds of waterways. Though the Amazon River itself is farther east, in what's now Peru, the major rivers of eastern Ecuador, especially the Napo, are tributaries of the Amazon. Ecuadorans often refer to the region as El Oriente—the East. It offers adventurous travelers some great opportunities to experience the rich plant and animal life of the tropical rain forest. Among the thousands of living things found there are hundreds of species of birds (macaws, parrots, toucans), anacondas, monkeys, piranha, jaguars, caimans (crocodiles), freshwater dolphins, mahogany trees, giant kapoc (or ceiba) trees and many varieties of palms.

Like rain forests the world over, the Oriente is rapidly being diminished, and the oil reserves found in the region have greatly speeded this process. As a result, visitors have to travel far into the wilds to get to pristine areas that are still rich in wildlife. We recommend at least a four-day trip, although travelers who want a quick, inexpensive look at the jungle can catch the bus to Misahualli and take one of the local river or hiking tours.

We also recommend visiting the Oriente as part of a guided tour: Public transport is sporadic and in some places nonexistent, and having the expertise of a knowledgeable guide will add a lot to your visit. Even on a tour, you're likely to spend a full day traveling to the jungle from Quito—by air and then overland—and a full day returning. Much of your journey will be spent on a boat (usually large canoes with outboard motors): Rivers are the principal form of transportation in the Oriente.

You can choose from a variety of tour experiences that run the gamut in terms of comfort and expense. At the upper end of the scale are several remote but well-appointed jungle lodges that come complete with meals and nature guides. Also comfortable, though a bit more affordable, is the Flotel Orellana, a boat operated by Metropolitan Touring that's located on the Aguarico River. It sleeps 48 passengers and serves as a base for guided explorations into the Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve. Flotel passengers have the option of spending one night at a rustic jungle lodge should they choose to leave their cozy cabins behind.

If possible, choose a tour that gives you the opportunity to spend a lot of time within the rain forest: The jungle becomes much more impressive once you leave the wide rivers behind you and pass into the wild tangle of greenery. In some areas, boardwalks have been built to keep you up out of the water and mud. Taking a ride in a nonmotorized boat along one of the smaller waterways in the Oriente is also highly recommended: It greatly increases your chance of seeing wildlife. If you make such a journey after dusk, you'll have the unforgettable experience of gliding through darkness surrounded by the sounds of the jungle. (Those flitting shapes darting past will likely be fishing bats.)

The Amazon Basin also offers the opportunity to learn about some unique human communities: Several Indian groups in the region continue to practice elements of their traditional lifestyles, though they do make use of modern tools like guns and boat motors. Some have become active in the movement to conserve Ecuador's rain forest—their traditional hunting grounds. Not all communities welcome visits from outsiders, but others are finding tourism to be a valuable source of income. One of these is the Cofan community. They've created the Cofan Social Center, which serves as a kind of living museum that explains their way of life. Visitors see a traditional Cofan dwelling, witness demonstrations of hunting and cooking practices and take a jungle walk with a Cofan guide who identifies medicinal plants and their uses. As with most museums, there's a gift shop, this one offering handicrafts (blow guns, necklaces, string bags) made by members of the community. Another tribe active in tourism is the Achuar, who operate the Kapawi Lodge and Ecological Reserve.

AMBATO

This modern city (pop. 140,000) south of Quito was rebuilt following a 1949 earthquake—little evidence of the colonial era remains. Ambato, however, is a good place to buy Salasaca Amerindian tapestries and other handicrafts (Monday is the main market day, with smaller ones on Wednesday and Friday). Sights include the Quinta de Mera (historic home), the local museum and the relaxing Parque Juan Montalvo (named after the Ecuadoran political essayist). The city hosts the Fruit and Flower Festival during the last two weeks of February (fruits, flowers, bullfights, street dances and general festivities). Visitors can take excursions to Chimborazo (at 20,700 ft/6,310 m, it's Ecuador's highest peak); the Fauna Production Reserve (15,000 acres/6,100 hectares of native flowers and plants); and the nearby town of Banos. Ambato is 75 mi/120 km south of Quito.

ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES

Ecuador has several ruins left by the Incas or other Amerindians. The principal Inca site is Ingapirca. Others include Rumicucho, near Quito; La Tolita, near Esmeraldas; and Tomebamba in Cuenca (most of the ruins in this old provincial capital have been built over, but some can be seen at Avenida Todos Santos). The ancient Valdivia culture (dating from 3200 BC) left remains at Real Alto, San Isidro (excavated mounds) and Santa Elena—all of which are located in the coastal area northwest of Guayaquil. Santa Elena is notable for having the world's oldest known cemetery (dating from 5000 BC). Inside Machalilla National Park is the Agua Blanca site. (Artifacts from most of these places are best seen in museums in Guayaquil and Quito, with the exception of Ingapirca.)

Ecuador's sites, however, are less impressive than those in Peru (few have standing walls).

BANOS

Set in a verdant, mountainous region, Banos is a wonderful place to relax—if Tungurahua Volcano is not erupting. Banos was evacuated in late 1999 because the volcano was ejecting ash and rocks, damaging surrounding farms and businesses. Scientists say further eruptions are possible; check conditions locally before attempting to visit the area.

Among the area's draws are several natural springs. Several places around town offer a chance for a good, long soak (be forewarned: the water ranges from ice cold to uncomfortably hot).

The lovely scenery around Banos is the area's other main attraction, and there are several ways to enjoy it. Good hiking trails ascend the hills above the town (check locally about the safety of the routes, especially if you're not traveling in a group: Some robberies have been reported). Mountain biking and horseback riding are also popular, with the largely downhill bike ride from Banos to Puyo (45 mi/70 km) being especially popular—take a bus to get back to Banos. If you don't want to stray far from Banos, shorter trips to the scenic bridge, Puente San Francisco, or the nearby waterfall, Cascada Ines Maria, can be made by horseback, taxi or even on foot.

White-water boating is also possible on several rivers in the area. There are plenty of tour operators in Banos that can help you arrange these excursions. Tour operators can also arrange trips to the rain forest of the Amazon Basin and volcano-climbing expeditions, including a trek up the active, ice-covered Tungurahua, where crampons (and a reputable tour guide) are required.

In Banos itself, stop and try some of the taffy (called melcocha) made in the storefronts along the streets—you can watch as candy makers pull the warm, gooey stuff over large wooden pegs built into the walls of their shops. Famed Ecuadoran guitar-maker Jacinto Guevara practices his craft in Banos. (Another village known for its guitar-makers is San Bartolome, 130 mi/210 km south of Banos, 20 mi/30 km southeast of Cuenca.)

If you get a chance, visit Banos in October and December, when the streets come alive during the town's two religious festivals: The first honors the Virgin of Holy Water (the namesake of the local church, Santuario de Nuestra Senora de Agua Santa); the second celebrates the date the town was appointed seat of its canon. The fiestas are a splash of music, dancing, processions and fireworks. 80 mi/130 km south of Quito.

COTOPAXI NATIONAL PARK

At 19,345 ft/5,895 m, Cotopaxi is said to be the highest active volcano in the world (though, as with most things "highest," there's some debate about that claim). Whether you get close to the summit or not, the view of its perfectly shaped, snow-covered cone is stunning—if you get a clear day. The national park protects a large area surrounding the peak, and it's home to wild horses, deer, some captive llamas and several rare species you'll probably never lay eyes on, including puma and Andean condors.

Those with climbing experience and a couple of days to devote to the outing can ascend to the summit. Others can find hiking trails in the park, including one that follows the shore of Lago Limpiopungo, a small highland lake that sits at 12,465 ft/3,800 m. If you're in reasonably good shape and the altitude doesn't wipe you out, consider climbing up to the Jose Ribas Refuge, where mountaineers begin their expeditions to the top. Take the road until it ends at a dirt parking lot just below the snow line. From there, you have a 650-ft/200-m climb up to the refuge, which doesn't sound bad until you try to hike up the steep path in the very thin air. Plan on an hour going up, and wear hiking boots for the snow. At the refuge (15,748 ft/4,800 m), you can have a snack, pretend you're a mountain climber, then head back down.

The park has a small museum on its geology and animals. There's not a lot there, but it's worth a stop to see the stuffed Andean condor that's on display—it's huge, with an 8-ft/2.5-m wingspan, and this is supposedly a small one. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, you can visit the ruins of a remote Inca fortress. Cotopaxi makes for a good day trip from Quito, though you can overnight at a hotel (there are two near the entrance) or camp within the park (rustic cabins are available). 35 mi/55 km south of Quito.

CUENCA

Panama hats are the trademark of Cuenca, Ecuador's third-largest city (pop. 272,000)—the misnamed toppers were first made in the Cuenca area and are still produced there. The town has an Old World, Spanish colonial feel—flower boxes on windows, wrought-iron balconies, red-tile roofs, cobblestone streets and a lively market (open Thursday, with a smaller market on Saturday). It's also a center for arts and crafts—many of the things sold in Quito and Guayaquil come from this area. Among the sights are several cathedrals and convents.

The best archaeological exhibits are at the Museo del Banco Central, which also displays old photos and has changing art and other shows. The Museo de Las Conceptas is housed in the Convent of the Immaculate Conception and is Cuenca's most famous religious art museum.

Plan two nights to see the town, but add two more days if you're going on to Ingapirca, the country's principal Inca site. Be aware that the trip is a grueling three hours each way, and the site is not as impressive as the Inca ruins in Peru. Don't bother visiting the site if you are continuing onto Peru, but do make the trip if it's your only chance to see Inca ruins—the masonry is amazing.

Other side trips can be made to the villages of Sigsig and Gualaceo—good crafts, a Sunday market and a church (in Gualaceo) with a stained-glass window portraying Jesus in a panama hat—or to the stark, rugged National Park of Cajas, a 71,000-acre/28,800-hectare park with more than 200 glacier lakes and good trout fishing. 80 mi/130 km southeast of Guayaquil.

ESMERALDAS

This coastal city (pop. 141,000) can be used as a base to visit nearby destinations. Esmeraldas itself is, in a word, awful—it's dirty and crime-ridden, rip-offs abound, and there's a serious malaria problem during the rainy season. And while its beach is large, the proximity of a naval harbor fouls the water. Accommodations at the nearby beach resorts of Atacames are very basic (i.e., seawater in the bathrooms), but the beaches are good (more deserted beaches can be found near the tiny island port of Muisne). The Atacames beaches are among the most popular with young travelers, although they are not as attractive as the beaches in the Caribbean. Also, there is a serious crime problem along the beaches—don't walk them alone, even in daylight. 110 mi/180 km northwest of Quito.

GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

The Galápagos archipelago is renowned for its unique and fearless wildlife and has become a mecca for natural-history enthusiasts. Here, you can swim with sea lions, float eye-to-eye with penguins and stand beside a blue-footed booby and ogle as it feeds its young. The archipelago spreads out over 50,000 sq km (19,500 sq mi) of the Pacific Ocean some 1000km (620mi) west of Ecuador and is comprised of 13 main islands and six smaller ones. The landscape is barren and volcanic but has a unique haunting beauty. The highest point in the chain is the 1707m (5600ft) Volcán Wolf on Isla Isabela. The islands' renowned bird and marine life includes albatrosses, penguins, boobies, turtles, giant tortoises, iguanas, sea lions, whales and dolphins.

Ecuador claimed the Galápagos Islands in 1832, just three years before their most famous visitor, Charles Darwin, dropped anchor on the Beagle and stepped ashore and into history. For the next century, the islands were inhabited by a few settlers and were used as a penal colony, the last of which closed in 1959. The archipelago became a national park in 1959. Today, the park is protected from haphazard tourism by strict limits on where visitors are allowed to go, and all visitors are obliged to be accompanied by a certified naturalist tour guide trained by the national park service. The islands currently receive an average of 60,000 visitors per year. The entrance fee to the Galápagos has increased dramatically to US$100, payable upon arrival, in cash only.

A visit to the islands is expensive; a high season flight from Ecuador and a week cruising the islands will set you back at least a four-figure sum. Boat trips to the Galápagos can be arranged from Guayaquil, but it's a hassle and will seldom save you any money. Flights to the islands are much easier to arrange and leave daily from Quito and Guayaquil for the Isla Baltra airport, which is about two hours by public transport from Puerto Ayora, the archipelago's main town, on the central island of Santa Cruz.

GUAYAQUIL

This tropical seaport (Ecuador's largest city) is a place you'll probably want to leave about three hours after you get there. Guayaquil (pop. almost 2 million) does have some interesting sights, but crime and inadequate infrastructure are discouragements (as is the smell that will strike you when you first arrive—it smells like what it is—a big, tropical seaport). Among the sights are the Cathedral and the Church of San Francisco, the Municipal Museum (includes shrunken heads), the Ecuadoran House of Culture and the Parque Bolivar (ornamental gardens and huge land iguanas).

An afternoon walk along the promenade of the broad and murky Guayas River is enjoyable, but be careful when walking in the Penas neighborhood: The wooden buildings are beautiful, but the streets can be dangerous. The best time to visit Guayaquil is during the city's fiesta (9 October), which combines with Columbus Day (12 October) for several days of festivities. You can escape the city by staying in the nearby resorts of Salinas and Playas, though both are very popular and crowded. 175 mi/275 km southwest of Quito.

MACHALA

Machala (pop. 111,000) lies in the banana-growing region on the coast south of Guayaquil. This agricultural boomtown is usually just a stopover on the way to or from Peru, though banana enthusiasts should spend some time at the banana festival in September. 75 mi/120 km south of Guayaquil.

MANTA

A busy harbor set on the central Pacific coast, Manta (pop. 136,000) offers the Banco Central Museum (ancient Amerindian artifacts), an old wooden church and a picturesque fishing harbor. The surrounding countryside has pristine beaches, backed by lush, rolling hills covered in orchards and cotton plantations. Nearby Portoviejo offers Casa de la Cultura, a museum. Don't go out of your way to see it, but Manta does merit a few hours if you happen to be driving along the coast. 80 mi/130 km northwest of Guayaquil.

OTAVALO

Market day in Otavalo (pop. 22,000) is a must for any traveler to Ecuador. Every Saturday, Amerindians from the surrounding villages gather to sell produce, livestock, woolen goods and other handicrafts. The market is well known by tour groups, so don't go expecting to be the only tourist, but do go: Otavalo is a truly unique Ecuadorean experience.

The people are a sight in themselves. The men of the area dress in traditional white pants, blue or gray ponchos and felt hats and have their hair braided in long pigtails; the women wear white blouses with black sashes and skirts and lots of gold-colored necklaces. You're likely to see other distinctive outfits, as well, as people from surrounding regions also come to Otavalo to buy and sell goods.

There are several components to market day, some geared to the local inhabitants, some to the many travelers who visit Otavalo. It all begins at dawn, when the animal market gets under way out on the edge of town. We found this the most interesting part of the market activities: As the sun comes up, the large, vacant lot is transformed into a place of squealing pigs and lowing cattle and hundreds of Indians milling about as they size up the merchandise or try to make a sale.

By 9 am, the activity moves to the hundreds of handicraft booths spread through the downtown. The center of the action is the "Poncho Plaza," but vendors extend out for several blocks in all directions. Almost any craft item produced in Ecuador can be found in Otavalo, but the specialties are the colorful textiles (blankets, ponchos, sweaters, tapestries, hand bags) produced in the area. Other good bets are musical instruments (charangos and zamponas—pan pipes), ceramics and hats (panama and felt). Be aware that pickpockets and petty thieves are active in the market: Keep a close accounting of your valuables.

Plan on getting to the handicraft market early (try to overnight in the area and arrive before 10 am, when the tour groups descend on the place and the market gets very crowded). Be sure to bargain. Start at about 20%-25% below the initial asking price and go from there. Haggling is possible even if you have trouble with Spanish numbers: Bring a paper and pen to write the figures down. (Many of the vendors carry calculators to make the process easier.) If you can't make it to Otavalo on Saturday, you'll find a smaller selection of craft booths on other days, as well, especially on Wednesday. A large number of permanent craft shops and galleries are also located on the downtown streets near the Poncho Plaza.

If you still have energy after shopping, stroll through the food markets (one near the train station, one at Calle Jaramillo and Juan Montalvo). Like the animal market, these are attended more by the local people than by travelers, but that's what makes them such interesting places to visit. You're likely to see women balancing baskets of produce on their heads, lots of live chickens and tables full of colorful foods—whole pigs, exotic fruits, piles of grains and vegetables.

Try to arrange one or two extra days to enjoy the small villages and beautiful countryside around Otavalo. Tour companies in Otavalo run guided excursions to the villages. Some of the tours visit the workshops of local weavers and other artisans. Among the nearby towns are Cotacachi (known for its fine leather goods), Peguche (musical instruments), Iluman (home of the Inti Chumbi handicraft coop) and Agato (weavings produced on traditional backstrap looms by master weaver Miguel Andrango).

Spend some time at one of the beautiful mountain lakes in the area. Lago San Pablo is right outside Otavalo (you can hike there), and is large enough for boating—inquire at the Puertolago hosteria. Laguna de Cuicocha and the Lagunas de Mojanda are a little farther afield, but easily seen on day trips. Las Casacadas de Peguche (the Peguche Waterfalls) are another popular destination for hikers from Otavalo.

Bicycling can also be a great way to spend part of a day: We particularly enjoyed a three-hour excursion in which we paid a taxi to drop us off at a high mountain pass on the Selva Alegre Road. From there, it was an easy downhill ride to Otavalo with plenty of scenic vistas along the way (volcanoes, farms and lots of curious Indians).

The old colonial town of Ibarra (22 mi/35 km north of Otavalo) is a picturesque place to relax. Red-roofed, whitewashed houses line the cobblestone streets, which echo the clatter of horse-drawn carriages. The clacking of chisels can be heard at San Antonio de Ibarra—the nearby town is renowned for its wooden sculptures (but the quality varies greatly). To the south of Otavalo (20 mi/32 km) is the town of Cayambe, which is renowned for its cheese. Otavalo is 35 mi/75 km northeast of Quito.

QUITO

The capital and second-largest city in Ecuador (pop. 1,250,000), Quito sits high in the Andes with an elevation of 9,300 ft/2,835 m. The mountains (including the active volcano Mt. Pichincha to the west of the city that's been spewing ash recently) will probably be the first things that strike you about Quito. The next will be the air pollution, which is held in place by the mountains (Quito occupies a long, narrow valley). The smog is largely created by the hundreds of smoke-spewing buses—local and intercity—that pass through the city. Quito is Ecuador's principal transportation hub.

If you take a deep breath and dive into the haze, however, you'll find a sight that makes it all worthwhile. Quito's Old Town is a wonder—blocks and blocks of colonial architecture, some of it dating to the mid 1500s when the Spanish founded the city. (Before the Spanish arrived, Quito was an important Inca settlement, and before the Inca, other tribes lived at the site.) Vintage facades line the streets and large open plazas are surrounded by cathedrals and stately public buildings. It has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

As impressive as the exteriors are, the interiors of the buildings can be even more breathtaking, especially the churches. They gleam with gold—and it's real gold leaf—sometimes several tons of it—not gold-colored paint. Most of the standouts are located within a few blocks of one another. The Monastery of San Francisco is thought to be Quito's oldest church—construction began shortly after the city was founded in 1534. It's still the busiest, holding several masses a day, and we found the best (and most interesting) way to see the church was to enter when a service was taking place. The other option is to pay the entrance fee to see the Museum of San Francisco, where you'll be escorted past a lot of bloody religious art before you're admitted to the elevated choir at the rear of the church.

Just across the plaza and down the street is the Church of La Compania de Jesus, which has an intricately carved facade and one of the most ornate interiors in the Americas. From La Compania, turn down Calle Garcia Moreno and you'll pass El Sagrario (begun in the mid 1600s) and, right next door, the Cathedral Metropolitana (where independence hero Antonio Jose de Sucre is buried). Other prominent churches are Santo Domingo (begun in 1581, it has a decorative Moorish ceiling and a statue of the Virgin Mary given to the church by Charles V of Spain) and the Monastery of San Agustin (from the 1600s).

Several museums are located in the Old Town, including the Museo de Arte Colonial (endless depictions of the bleeding Jesus and some amazingly intricate wooden desks) and the Museo Municipal Abert Mena Caamano (colonial and modern art). We especially liked Casa Sucre, the beautifully restored home of the man who helped liberate Ecuador from Spanish rule. The displays of maps and weapons are interesting, but it's the house and its period furnishings that are the real attraction. Be aware that many of the museums and churches of Old Town are undergoing renovation: Some of them may be closed when you visit or have reduced hours. (If you find that a church is officially closed, try to stop back at a later time: Sometimes the doors are opened for a short time, and you may get a chance to walk around inside.)

As interesting as the architecture is, what we really enjoyed about the Old Town is that it's a busy, workaday place rather than a sterile historical park. It's full of shops and vendors, and most cater to Quito residents more than tourists. In fact, the whole place seems like one immense outdoor market (there's an incredible selection of shoes, in particular). Many of the vendors wear the clothing that's distinctive to their home village, making the streets Old Town something of a living cultural museum. Be sure to spend time on cobblestone La Ronda Street, the oldest in town.

We recommend going to the Old Town only in the daytime. Even then, you should be careful and keep valuables hidden—pickpockets, bag slashers and camera snatchers ply their trades there. One place you should definitely not go on foot is El Panecillo, the hill directly south of Old Town that's crowned by the large Virgin of Quito statue. Walking the streets that lead to the top is an invitation to be mugged. If you want to take in the view from El Panecillo, hire a taxi to drive you.

Outside of Old Town, Quito is modern and does not possess the beauty of the colonial section (in places, it seems like a study in the many unattractive things that can be done with concrete). What's usually referred to as "New Town" or the Mariscal Sucre is where most visitors stay. It's home to a large selection of hotels, restaurants, money-exchange houses and upscale souvenir shops. Also in the New Town is the Casa de la Cultura, a must-see attraction: It contains the Banco Central archaeological museum, an attached art museum, a vast musical-instrument museum, an indigenous-clothing museum and a modern-art museum. If you have time for just one, make it the archaeological museum: It has an amazing display of works produced by Inca goldsmiths, as well as lots of ancient pottery and detailed dioramas of life in Ecuador's pre-Columbian civilizations.

While Quito is not a late-night city, you can find some nightlife in the New Town. (Note, however, that the center of New Town can be dangerous after dark: Don't walk the streets alone.) There are expatriate bars and nightclubs, penas (clubs with traditional Andean music), some multilingual bookstores, cafes and galleries. A colorful ballet folklorico show entitled Jacchigua is presented twice a week (usually Wednesday and Friday evenings) at the Casa de la Cultura.

Plenty of markets dot the area near Quito—good places to buy Ecuadorean crafts. Some of the markets outside town require setting aside at least a full day, so plan accordingly. Market day is Saturday in Otavalo and Riobamba and Thursday in Saquisili (one of the best markets in Ecuador).

One of the best times to visit Quito is during its fiesta (technically 6 December but celebrated most of the week), when the city is enlivened by parades and street dances. The month of August is dedicated to the arts, and it seems every park and alley in Quito is jammed with musicians and artists.

RIOBAMBA

Like Otavalo, Riobamba (pop. 148,000) is filled every Saturday with woolen blankets, pigs and produce. The market, frequented by Amerindians from the neighboring villages, sprawls through several town squares and streets. If you want a break from the bustle of the market, head to the Museum of Sacred Art (paintings, sculptures and jewelry), housed in the old Convent of the Sisters of the Conception. The city itself has some fine old buildings and pretty views of the surrounding peaks. It also makes a good base for visiting Chimborazo. The market starts early, so an overnight stay is recommended. 100 mi/165 km south of Quito.

SANTO DOMINGO DE LOS COLORADOS

This lowland city (pop. 104,000) is near the home of the Colorado Amerindians. These Amerindians get their name from their unique appearance: They rub red dye on their skin and hair (colorado means "colored red"). The native dress is also unusual, but seldom worn. (They "dress up" for tourists, but otherwise wear conventional—that is, Western—clothing.) To visit them, hire a taxi from Santo Domingo. Birders will also find the region particularly attractive: It is home to nearly 400 species, including the aracari, blue-tailed trogon, Esmeraldas antbird and Guayaquil woodpecker.

Santo Domingo can be visited on a very long day trip from Quito, but it's better to spend a night. (Bear in mind that the road from Quito can be impassable during the rainy season.) The town's hotels are not especially appealing, but there are haciendas in the region that are good bases for birding. 50 mi/80 km west of Quito.

THE EQUATOR

The equator, which passes through northern Ecuador, is usually visited from Quito. The best place to "see" the equator is at Mitad del Mundo (Middle of the World). It marks the spot on the equator where an 18th-century French expedition tested Newton's theory that the Earth bulged in the middle, which it does (each member of the expedition is honored with a small marker at the site). The equator monument itself is a 90-ft-/27-m-high building crowned by a large metal globe. Ride the elevator to the top, where you get some nice views of the surrounding hills from an observation area. Inside the tower, there's an ethnographic museum with exhibits on different groups that populate Ecuador. We found the museum interesting, but be aware that the signs are only occasionally in English.

Around the monument are several other attractions, including a scale model of Quito (complete with sound effects and day and night views), a mock colonial plaza and bullring, a planetarium and lots of gift shops. Be sure to buy some postcards and get them stamped at the special "Middle of the World" post office. The site is touristy but fun: If you want to have your picture taken on the equator (or, more accurately, on the yellow line that clearly marks the equator), this is the place. If not, it's probably not worth the half-hour drive from Quito. 14 mi/22 km north of Quito.

TRAIN RIDES

Ecuador is renowned for its scenic railroad routes, some of which plunge down the steep face of the Andes. The views are even more spectacular if you ride on the roof of the train, a hallmark of Ecuadoran train travel. At press time, several of the popular rail routes were still in operation, but be aware that schedules change frequently, and service is often canceled at the last minute: Check locally for the latest word.

One of the most spectacular routes runs from Riobamba down toward the Pacific coast. In the best of times, it continues all the way to Duran, across the bay from Guayaquil, but at press time, service was terminating at the town of Huigra (the tracks were out of commission farther west). The highlight of the trip is "the Devil's Nose," where the tracks switchback down a steep incline. The train usually runs Wednesday, Friday and Sunday, leaving Riobamba very early in the morning, around 7 am. (You may have to catch a bus on the far end of the route.)

A more dependable (though more expensive) option for riding the Devil's Nose is to take the two-day Expreso train excursion offered by Metropolitan Touring. It includes bus transportation from Quito to Riobamba, stopping at several sights along the way, and bus transfer back to Quito after the train ride. Sometimes the Expreso utilizes vintage train cars and sometimes an autoferro (a bus grafted onto a train chassis). The excursion runs several times a week.

Two other train trips leave from Quito: One goes to Riobamba, one to Cotopaxi National Park. At press time, the Quito-Riobamba route departed on Saturday mornings; the Quito-Cotopaxi train left on Sunday mornings.

Ecuador's other famous train ride ran from the Andean city of Ibarra to the coastal town of San Lorenzo. At press time, mudslides had put this route out of commission indefinitely.

Top

History

Ecuador's cultural heritage is as impressive as its physical beauty. The nation was part of the Inca empire until it fell to the Spanish conquistadors in 1534. In that same year, Inca general Ruminahui razed Quito to keep it from being captured by the invaders. Refounded as the colonial capital, Quito became famous in the 17th and 18th centuries as an art center -- there are no finer examples of Spanish colonial architecture, sculpture and paintings than those produced in Ecuador at that time. The old colonial center has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site because of its beauty.

Like the rest of South America, Ecuador underwent a period of turmoil as it attempted to cast off Spanish rule in the early 1800s. Independence was won by the armies of Simon Bolivar, with the key battles in Ecuador being won by Antonio Jose de Sucre, one of Bolivar's field marshals. Ecuador's former currency was named in honor of Sucre.) After unsuccessful federation with Colombia and Venezuela, Ecuador became an independent nation in 1830 and began the long, difficult road toward political stability. During this period, there wasn't much job security in being leader of Ecuador. In the first 95 years of independence (1822-1917), Ecuador had 40 presidents, dictators and juntas, and from 1925 to 1948, none of the 22 presidents or chiefs of state completed his term.

In 1942, as the result of a war with Peru, Ecuador lost a significant portion of its Amazon Basin territory. After numerous battles peace was finally negotiated in late 1998 that has eased tensions along the border. The country's economy continues to falter due to the low price of oil and catastrophic losses from flooding and volcanic eruptions, combined with government austerity programs.

Top

Dining

Quito and Guayaquil offer a wide variety of European, Asian and regional restaurants. In rural areas, foods are simple and adequate. Excellent seafood and fish are a good bargain along the coast. Try some locro (cheese/avocado/potato soup), llapingachos (mashed potato and cheese fritters), humitas (cornmeal tamales) and other tasty local foods. One local specialty is roast cuy (guinea pig). The tangy ceviche (marinated seafood) is wonderful. Cooked fish, such as sea bass (corvina) and trout (trucha), is mouthwatering. A churrasco is a hearty plate of rice, a piece of grilled beef, fried eggs, vegetables (often boiled beets, beans and carrots), french fries and a slice of avocado. Fritada is roast pork combined with corn, cheese, avocado, potatoes and plantains. Chinese and Italian food are also available in the larger cities (but don't expect it to taste like home). There are many delicious fruit juices -- papaya, grapefruit, blackberry, watermelon and passion fruit as well as orange juice. Most are either 100% pure or made with purified water -- ask the waiter to be sure. Soft drinks and mineral water (usually carbonated) are available everywhere. There are two major brands of beer, Club and Pilsner. Go with Pilsner, but be aware that it's served in very large bottles. Local wines and liquors are poor, with the exception of rum. Otherwise, drink imported alcohol which is widely available, though pricey.

Top

Shopping

If you've ever wanted a genuine Panama hat, you're in the right place -- even Panama imports them from Ecuador. Also shop for pottery, handmade filigreed silver jewelry, wool sweaters, straw items, wood carvings, Amerindian belts (chumbi), handwoven shawls (macanas) and ponchos. Look for more souvenirs at the local markets (the Saturday market in Otavalo often has good Amerindian clothing, weaving and handicrafts) -- but get there early, as prices tend to increase as the day moves along. Remember that pre-Columbian artifacts cannot be exported from Ecuador and will be confiscated at the border. .

Top

Climate

There is really no ideal time to go if you're planning to see more than one area of Ecuador, because the climate varies according to region. The rainy season is October-April in the Sierra (with April the wettest month) and January-April on the coast. The coastal rainy season coincides with the warmest water currents for swimming, surfing or (in the Galapagos) snorkeling, and these are the most popular months on the coast. The June-September dry season is the most popular in the highlands: This coincides with the wettest months in the Oriente, when roads may be washed out.

Temperatures are determined more by altitude than by the calendar, so you should pack accordingly. The Oriente and Quito remain constant year-round: Quito is always moderate (lows in the mid 40s F/7 C, highs in the low 70s F/22 C), and the Amazon is always hot and humid. Lightweight clothing can be worn year-round in the Oriente and Costa, and sweaters and medium-weight jackets are always needed in the Sierra. Whenever you visit, it's a good idea to take a sweater for the cool mornings and evenings. Layers and a waterproof/breathable jacket are a very good idea if you will be hiking in the mountains -- temperatures can vary greatly and storms can blow up unexpectedly.

Top

Health

Medical care is limited. Serious medical problems requiring hospitalization and/or medical evacuation to the U.S. or Europe can cost thousands of dollars or more. Doctors and hospitals often expect immediate cash payment for health services.

Top

Basics

- Capital City: Quito
-Economy: Oil, agriculture, fishing.
- Language Description: Spanish, Quechua.
- Population: 12,920,092
- Religion: Christian (Roman Catholic).
- Telephone Codes: 593, country code; 2, city code for Quito
- Time Zone: 5 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time (-5 GMT).
- Daylight Saving Time is not observed
- Tipping Overview: Tip 10% in restaurants, unless service is included in the bill (in which case an additional small amount is appreciated, but not required). Tips should be paid directly to the waiter in cheaper restaurants, where 5% is acceptable. Taxi drivers aren't tipped unless performing special services, though you'll want to round up the fare. Be aware that taxi drivers may find it difficult to make change (which often results in a larger tip).
- Voltage Requirements: 110 volts

Top

Do's and Don'ts

Do carry your passport with you when traveling between provinces in Ecuador. By law, visitors are required to always have their passports in their possession, but this is less likely to be an issue if you're not traveling long distances (do at least have a photocopy of the passport at all times, though).

Do listen to your guide in the Galapagos Islands when he explains the procedures for interacting with wildlife. Because of their isolation and relatively few encounters with people, many of the creatures in the islands are not afraid of people. In some instances, animals (especially sea lions) will let you approach, even touch them, before becoming defensive. As thrilling and harmless as it may seem, your interaction can adversely affect these wonderful creatures and their sensitive habitats. Obey your guide.

Don't believe that all of the odd creatures and unique species exist solely in the Galapagos Islands. Isla de la Plata, only 20 mi/30 km from the mainland north of Guayaquil, has a number of nature trails where Galapagos regulars like the blue- and red-footed boobies, albatrosses and sea lions can be seen all year long.

Don't be surprised to see a lot of uniformed people toting machine guns. Sometimes they're soldiers, sometimes the police, sometimes the security guards at banks and money-exchange houses.

Do consider becoming a member of the South American Explorers Club, especially if you plan to do a lot of independent traveling in Ecuador and other parts of South America. The annual membership (about US$40) gives you access to the organization's clubhouse in Quito (and Lima, Peru), where you can find lots of information on destinations and tour operators, get help from the English-speaking staff and meet other travelers. Club members can also get discounts from some hotels, travel agencies and guides. The Quito clubhouse is at Jorge Washington 311, phone 593-225-228

Don't be surprised if you see oil rigs in a jungle clearing or oil pipelines alongside roads in the region. The country's reliance on oil and the corresponding environmental damage has been a source of ongoing controversy.

Do remember to set aside US$20 international airport departure tax if you are leaving by air (payable at the airport on departure only).

Do ask for permission first before photographing Amerindians.

Top

Passport & Visa

Citizens of the following countries require a visa:

- nationals of Algeria, Bangladesh, China (PR), Costa Rica, Cuba, Guatemala, Honduras, India, Iran, Iraq, Jordan, Korea (DPR), Korea (Rep. of), Lebanon, Libya, Nigeria, Pakistan, holders of a Palestinian Authority passport, Sri Lanka, Sudan, Syria, Taiwan, Tunisia, Vietnam, Yemen and members of the Sikh religion regardless of nationality.

- all nationals wishing to remain in Ecuador for more than 3 months and for a maximum of 6 months.

Passport valid for at least 6 months required by all except nationals of Colombia with an identity card.

Note:
- Passports must be carried at all times.
- Those with visas must register with the Ministry of Government and the Director General of Migration in Ecuador within 30 days of their entry. .

IMPORTANT: we cannot held responsible for the correctness of this information.

Top

© Copyright: John Nelson