Where to Go

BAYAHIBE

This fishing village southeast of La Romana has somehow managed to retain its small-town feel and attitude—despite its close proximity to Casa de Campo, the country's best-known luxury resort. We think Bayahibe is one of the most pleasant towns in the Caribbean, full of gaily painted fishing skiffs, friendly residents and a laid-back atmosphere. The stretch of sand near the town is short and shaded by palm trees (most of it is controlled by Casa de Campo). But the National Park of the East is nearby and has a lovely beach, along with some of the best snorkeling on the island. (The park's caves contain pre-Columbian petroglyphs, and nearby Isla Saona has hiking trails.) A few simple hotels can be found in Bayahibe, along with small beach bars/restaurants serving wonderful seafood. Several new luxury resorts have opened near Bayahibe in recent years. Though you can still enjoy the town's understated charms, we're not sure how long this will last: Get there sooner rather than later.

Just west of Bayahibe is Altos de Chavon, a Caribbean art center built in 1976 to resemble a Mediterranean village from the 1500s. Perched atop a bluff overlooking the Chavon River, Altos de Chavon includes an archaeological museum that is the most important Dominican museum outside the capital. It contains fascinating exhibits about the Amerindians of Hispaniola. Altos de Chavon also has a 5,000 seat Grecian-style amphitheater, used for concerts by internationally known musicians. Along the village's cobblestone paths you'll also find artists' galleries and shops as well as several good restaurants. For artists seeking their creative muse in the Caribbean, Altos de Chavon has an art school and an Artist-in-Residence Program that offers workshops and three-month residencies (in English) in photography, painting, sculpture, music, writing and architecture. There's also a school of design. Bayahibe is 65 mi/105 km east of Santo Domingo.

BERMUDEZ NATIONAL PARK

This park encompasses most of Pico Duarte, the highest mountain in the Caribbean at 10,417 ft/3,175 m. It's a popular place for hiking and climbing. You can either ascend the peak on foot or ride a mule to the top, a climb of 7,000 ft/2,135 m along rutted trails that passes through several climatic zones. You'll need to hire a guide for both. Plan on almost two full days in the saddle, or three tiring days on foot. You can start your climb in Bermudez Park, which means taking a short but steep route, or you can begin hiking at nearby Carmen Ramirez National Park, which makes for a longer hike. Accommodations along the way are in very rustic camps, and the peak, once you reach it, is often enshrouded in clouds. The park is northwest of Santo Domingo, near the towns of Jarabacoa and Constanza.

BOCA CHICA

Considered the Miami Beach of the Dominican Republic, Boca Chica is beautiful, with a shallow lagoon cordoned off by reefs, which is full of clear water and edged by gleaming white sand. When the tides are low you can walk out to La Matica, a small, uninhabited island. But like Miami Beach, Boca Chica is hugely popular and, in our opinion, it's been overdeveloped: The beach is often packed, especially on weekends, with vendors hawking their wares and merengue music blaring from portable radios. (Be aware that the beach also is frequented by prostitutes.) The large crowds result, in part, because Boca Chica is one of the best beaches near Santo Domingo, which is only a 30-minute drive to the west.

Those who don't mind the bustle will find plenty of water sports going on in the shallow, protected waters. Sailboats, paddleboats and jetskis are available for rent, and waterskiing and scuba-diving excursions can be arranged. For deep-sea fishing, contact the Andres Boca Chica Club (phone 809-685-4940) or the DeMar Beach Club (phone 809-523-5579). They angle for tarpon, snook and bonefish. Expect to pay about US$110 per person for the day.

The town is filled with bars and shops—and more blaring merengue. (The music seems to be used as a form of advertising by the merchants, who apparently believe that the louder the music is, the more business they'll attract.) Most of the shops sell T-shirts, souvenir kitsch and local beer, which is quite good. Raul Valette's G. R. Gallery (on the main street a block off the beach) has an interesting collection of works by Dominican and Haitian artists. A group of Arawak caves can easily be seen on a day trip from Boca Chica.

Just 10 mi/16 km east of Boca Chica is Juan Dolio, another resort area that's popular with Dominicans. While the beach is smaller and narrower, it's less crowded, has deeper water and, overall, seems a bit cleaner and better tended than Boca Chica. It's possible to relax on the beach, but there are still plenty of hotels, restaurants and bars, as well as a casino and two golf courses. Boca Chica is 15 mi/25 km east of Santo Domingo.

JARABACOA

This small, mountain town north of Santo Domingo has some interesting shops that cater to the surrounding farming community. The weather is pleasantly cool, and the town is close to Pico Duarte. If you are looking for outdoor thrills, you may want to visit Rancho Baiguete, an unusual private resort outside of Jarabacoa. It has a largely European clientele who enjoy an array of activities: mountain biking, rappelling, horseback riding, four-wheel-drive excursions, rafting, hiking and off-road motorcycle outings. Several nearby towns are also worth a stop. Constanza was settled by Japanese immigrants in the 1950s, who were brought in to develop the area's temperate fruit crop. The mountain village has forests, rivers and waterfalls. Also in the vicinity is La Vega, a coffee and cacao town. Jarabacoa is 70 mi/110 km northwest of Santo Domingo.

LA ISABELA

The first European colony in the New World was founded at La Isabela by Christopher Columbus in 1493. About an hour west of Puerto Plata, the site is difficult to reach except by motorcycle or four-wheel-drive vehicle. Consisting mostly of ruins, it's of interest mostly to archaeologists, but the area is slowly being developed. A museum and educational center are in the planning stages. A modern church, consecrated in 1994, commemorates the first mass in the country, which was conducted by the priest who accompanied Columbus. Nearby are Luperon and Punta Rucia, both of which are small, undeveloped fishing villages that are hard to reach but offer good diving and fishing. 115 mi/185 km northwest of Santo Domingo.

LA ROMANA

What put this sugar-mill town east of Santo Domingo on the tourism map is Casa de Campo. An internationally known resort that's considered by many to be the finest in the Caribbean, the resort and its vast grounds (7,000 acres/2,800 hectares) were designed by fashion designer and Dominican native Oscar de la Renta.

You can indulge in all kinds of activities at Casa de Campo. There are water sports, including swimming, snorkeling, jetskiing and windsurfing. You can play golf on three championship-caliber courses, including the incomparable Pete Dye-designed Teeth of the Dog. Or shoot trap and skeet or try your luck on a simulated hunting course. Play tennis on one of the 13 courts at the hilltop La Terraza complex. Go riding (polo, jumping, trail rides) on one of the resort's 1,000 horses.

Casa de Campo has a variety of accommodations, including hotel rooms and villas. Off-season rates can be quite good. La Romana has a new airport, so there is no long shuttle ride to the resort.

PUERTO PLATA

Mt. Isabel de Torres forms the dramatic backdrop for the north-coast town of Puerto Plata. A large statue of Christ stands on the mountain with arms stretched out into the clouds, looking much like the statue that overlooks Rio de Janeiro in Brazil.

As impressive as its natural setting is, Puerto Plata (pop. 200,000) has lost a lot of its luster in recent years. Part of this can be attributed to the hotels in the Playa Dorada resort area southeast of the city, which have adopted all-inclusive plans. Many travelers tend to stay on the resort properties, because trips to outside restaurants or other attractions add to the cost of their vacation. As a result, some businesses have closed. Still, several good restaurants line the malecon (seaside boulevard). Puerto Plata also is blessed with an abundance of beautiful Victorian architecture, though much of it is in need of maintenance. We think you'll find Puerto Plata an interesting mix—one worth experiencing even with its obvious flaws.

The primary attraction is the town itself. You'll find most of Puerto Plata's best Victorian buildings lining the narrow streets around the town square. Many have been renovated into shops and restaurants. Others are a bit tired looking, their gingerbread trim and broad porches in need of a coat of paint.

At the west end of the malecon is San Felipe Fort, whose moat is full of jagged coral. You can take a guided tour of its historical displays. The oldest European fort in the New World, San Felipe will appeal most to visitors who are military history buffs. Open daily 9 am-4:30 pm, except Wednesday. US$0.75.

Take time to visit the Amber Museum, which is two blocks from the town square. The region around Puerto Plata is often called the Amber Coast because it's the world's largest source of clear amber. If you take the guided tour, you'll see a tiny lizard entrapped in a large piece of amber as well as everything from small bugs to leaves and other assorted objects that were collected in the resin of pine trees millions of years ago. Open Monday-Friday 9 am-6 pm. About US$1.25. Calle Duarte 6. Phone 809-586-2848.

For spectacular vistas, hire a taxi and take the one-hour ride along some washboard roads to the top of Mt. Isabel de Torres to see the huge statue of Christ that looms over the city. (A cable car used to provide a scenic trip up the mountain but was out of commission when we went to press and may remain that way for some time.) You may have to walk the last half mile (one kilometer) because of road repairs. You can also reach the top on horseback or by safari jeep. It's well worth the trip on a clear day: You can see for miles up and down the coast, and the mountains of the interior ranges seem to go on forever. There's also a small botanical garden by the statue. (Take a sweater—it can be cool at the top.)

Beaches east of the city are generally superior to those on the western side, but they also tend to be more crowded and dirtier. Avoid Long Beach, the city's most popular eastside beach—it's usually packed. It's also full of litter, and petty crime is common. Instead, try Punta Rucia, on the west side of town, where crowds are rare and beachside resorts keep the sand clean.

If you're looking for a resort experience, head to Playa Dorada, a seaside resort town east of Puerto Plata that has 15 first-class hotels centered around a golf course. There are lots of restaurants and water-sports rental shacks. Sosua, about 15 mi/24 km east of Playa Dorada, has a long, white-sand beach that's always a carnival of activity. But it's become a bit too noisy and dirty for our taste. We recommend the beaches at either Cabarete or Rio San Juan, which are farther east of Sosua.

PUNTA CANA

Punta Cana and its neighbor Bavaro are home to about a half dozen self-contained resorts. They're located along a beautiful 20-mi/32-km stretch of white-sand beach lined with coconut palms. This lovely strip of shore looks like it was taken straight off a travel poster.

The largest complex, with more than 1,500 rooms, has its own casino, two discos and an 18-hole golf course. Isolated and sparsely populated (it's an arid, scrubby landscape), the area will most interest those who have no desire to wander outside the perimeter fence of their hotel. The Bavaro resorts are closer together than those in Punta Cana, allowing for more movement between properties. The only public-access beach is in Cortecito, near the Bavaro Beach resort. Juanillo, a fishing village south of Punta Cana, offers an escape from the resort area, if you feel so inclined. Though more development is moving into this area, the resorts of Punta Cana have so far retained the relaxed atmosphere most visitors expect from a Caribbean vacation spot. 100 mi/160 km east of Santo Domingo.

SAMANA

A cultural oddity in a country usually associated with Columbus and Spanish domination, the town of Samana was founded by English-speaking U.S. slaves in the 1820s. This came about through the efforts of U.S. abolitionists and a Haitian general who worked to relocate thousands of slaves who had escaped Southern plantations via the Underground Railroad. Descendants of the original settlers—called Americanos—still live around the town, which is on the south coast of the Samana Peninsula. Some residents speak English as their first language. They continue to have a noticeable impact on the area's food, churches and architecture.

Samana was developed relatively recently as a tourist destination—the first road to the town was built only 25 years ago. You can now avoid the long road trip from Santo Domingo by taking a small (five-passenger) airplane from the capital. With its low-key atmosphere and many budget-type accommodations, Samana is a popular spot with Europeans and those interested in viewing whales. Humpback, pilot and Bryde's whales inhabit Samana Bay December-early March before heading north for the summer. The World Wildlife Fund has named Samana Bay as one of the best spots in the world for whale watching. Boat excursions let you get a look at the huge mammals: Inquire at the Marine Mammals Sanctuary in Samana for more information. The town has an interesting market offering fruits and vegetables: Be sure to buy a pineapple—they're very sweet and surprisingly inexpensive.

On the north side of the peninsula is Las Terrenas, a small but busy resort area with basic facilities, a handful of hotels and idyllic palm-fringed beaches. The drive up the mountain to the town is one of the most breathtaking in the country. Nearby is Playa Casson, one of the loveliest unspoiled beaches in the Caribbean.

An even more laid-back spot on the Samana Peninsula is the seaside town of Las Galeras, 16 mi/25 km north of Samana. Be sure to stop at the waterfalls en route—you can walk to the falls or go with a guide on horseback. Las Galeras has several small hotels and an all-inclusive resort. Also nearby is Playa Rincon, a secluded beach that can best be reached by four-wheel-drive vehicle.

Los Haitises National Park, on Samana Bay near Samana, is known for its mangrove and swamp areas and caves with Amerindian rock paintings. The park has varied plant life and landforms, including lunarlike karst landscapes with pockmarked terrain and deep pockets of limestone. Guided tours of the park leave from Samana, Sanchez and Sabana de la Mar. Samana is 65 mi/105 km northeast of Santo Domingo.

SAN PEDRO DE MACORIS

Though all of the Dominican Republic is a baseball hotbed, San Pedro de Macoris leads the pack in producing major-league players. Its most famous native son is home-run slugger Sammy Sosa. If you want to take a look at the talent (as many U.S. scouts do), San Pedro's Estrellas Orientes (Eastern Stars) team plays in Tetelo Vargas Stadium. The season runs late October-late February. Aside from baseball, however, the town doesn't have much to offer visitors. 40 mi/65 km east of Santo Domingo.

SANTIAGO

The country's second-largest city (pop. 500,000), Santiago lies in the heart of the cigar-producing Cibao Valley. It's a pleasant place with wide streets, museums and cathedrals, but it is not a popular tourist destination. Dominating the landscape is the Monument to the Restoration Heroes. Visit the university campus, the Folk Art Museum, the Tobacco Museum and the large market. El Gran Teatro de Civao, a theater modeled after the National Theatre in Santo Domingo, has an enormous stage and is said to have perfect acoustics: It hosts theatrical and musical performances. 80 mi/130 km northwest of Santo Domingo.

SANTO DOMINGO

The country's capital and largest city (pop. 2,600,000), Santo Domingo is the oldest city in the Americas. It was Spain's first colonial headquarters in the New World. Today, the city remains important as the country's economic hub as well as one of the Caribbean's top business centers. It also has the island's most exciting nightclubs, restaurants, shopping, and historic and cultural sites. It also has sprawling slums and shantytowns. Even so, it's a magnet for Dominicans as well as foreign visitors, which means you'll likely be seeing the sights alongside interested visitors from the country's hinterlands.

The Old City is, in our opinion, truly a must-see. Colonial buildings dating back 500 years fill the dozen-square blocks of the historic city center, which has been deemed a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Many of the ornate stone structures have been beautifully restored; others are in the midst of renovation. But the Old City, or Zona Colonia, doesn't have the air of a museum—it feels more like a town whose lively residents are intent on living and working there.

Restoration of the public buildings in Santo Domingo was initiated by the government to showcase the city on the 500th anniversary of Columbus' arrival in the Americas in 1992. Since then, dozens of churches, plazas, forts, gates, parks and palaces have been returned to their 16th-century condition. Most can be easily explored on foot.

We suggest beginning your tour on Calle de las Damas at the Alcazar de Colon, a palace built in 1514 for Columbus' son, Don Diego, who was the island's first viceroy. The Spanish Renaissance-style structure now contains an interesting historical museum. Open Tuesday-Saturday 9 am-noon and 2:30-5 pm. About US$1.25. Phone 809-689-5946.

At the corner of Mercedes and Las Damas is the Museo de las Casas Reales (Museum of the Royal Houses). This grand building, which was the governor's palace in the 1500s, contains period artifacts and furnishings as well as models of Columbus' three ships. You'll also find treasures from the days when Juan Trujillo ruled the country as if he were king. Open Monday-Thursday 9 am-5 pm and Sunday 9 am-noon. About US$1. Phone 809-682-4202.

The palace is near Las Atarazanas (the Dockyards), a cluster of warehouses from the 1500s that have been converted into boutiques, restaurants, bars and art galleries. This was the first commercial area in the New World, and the stone buildings, which are connected by inner courtyards, reflect the splendor of colonial architecture during that time. The Museo de las Atarazanas displays the cargo of a wrecked Spanish galleon, among other historic exhibits. Monday-Friday 9 am-5 pm, except Wednesday. About US$1. Phone 809-682-5834.

A few blocks south is Parque Colon, the city's main square—a popular local gathering place. Look for the bronze statue of the explorer, after whom the park is named. On the south side is Catedral de Santa Maria la Menor, the oldest cathedral in the Western Hemisphere. A stunning example of Spanish Renaissance architecture, the exterior is built of apricot-colored limestone. (The first stone was laid by Diego Columbus in 1514.) The Gothic interior's centerpiece is a high altar of mahogany covered with sculpted silver. The cathedral is open weekdays and Saturday 9 am-noon and 3-4:30 pm. (If you plan to go inside the cathedral, wear long pants or a skirt—you can sometimes rent both at the entrance.)

The best way to take in the magic of the Old City is to walk along Calle de las Damas (Walk of the Ladies), the oldest street in the hemisphere (dating back to 1502). Named because Diego Columbus' wife loved to stroll there with her entourage, the street has many engaging historic sights. The home of Hernan Cortes (the conqueror of Mexico) is there, along with the remarkable Hostal San Nicolas de Ovando (a colonial hotel now undergoing renovation).

You can also take in the spirit and feel of the city by climbing the ramparts of the Forteleza Ozama, which is actually a collection of three old forts built in 1503 to protect the fledgling town from invaders coming up the river. From the ramparts, there are great views of the river, sea and rooftops of the city. The fort now contains a museum and galleries. Open Tuesday-Sunday 8 am-7 pm. About US$1. Other historic sites include Monasterio de San Francisco (the first monastery, erected in 1514 by Franciscan monks) and the Hospital de San Nicholas de Bari (the first hospital in the New World, now populated with pigeons).

Far removed from the Old City (both geographically and architecturally) is the controversial Columbus Lighthouse Monument, built as part of the 500th anniversary celebration. It's in a large park on the east side of the Ozama River, in the new part of town. The building has been criticized as too expensive and too wasteful: Its extensive floodlights throw the shape of a cross into the sky, but the lights can only be turned on Fridays and weekends because of a shortage of electricity. (Note that the cross is only visible on cloudy nights.) A mausoleum inside the building supposedly contains the remains of Columbus—an honor also claimed by the cathedral in Seville, Spain. Open Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-5 pm. About US$1. Phone 809-594-4613.

In the new city, to the west of the colonial section, you'll find the Plaza de la Cultura, a complex of six modern buildings that make up the city's cultural center. In addition to the National Theater, it includes two fine museums.

One of them is the Gallery of Modern Art, which presents permanent and rotating shows of Dominican artists' works in oils, watercolor, pencil, acrylic, mixed media and sculpture. You could spend several hours viewing the museum's three floors of artwork—this is one of the most interesting galleries in the Caribbean, in our opinion. Open Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-5 pm. US$1.25. Phone 809-685-2153.

The Museum of Dominican Man, also part of the plaza, is a five-story natural history museum that details Dominican life and the cultures that contributed to it. Several terrific displays recount the history of the island's original Taino people as well as the European settlers who arrived by ship and the African slaves who were brought there in chains. Displays depict how the three cultures have been integrated into contemporary life in the country. Be aware that the written descriptions of the displays are in Spanish, though there is some talk of including English text. Guides and interpreters are sometimes available for US$3-$4. You could easily spend several hours in the museum. Open Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-5 pm. US$0.75. Phone 809-687-3623.

Paseo de los Indios is Santo Domingo's version of New York's Central Park. This tree-lined wedge of parkland runs for 8 mi/13 km on the western side of town (it's above the city on a limestone ridge that stretches from Avenida Anaconda to Avenida Mirador). You'll find joggers, children in strollers, bicyclers, kite flyers and picnickers.

For a low-key dose of nature, visit the National Botanical Gardens on the northwestern edge of the city. This is one of the most impressive parts of Santo Domingo, with numerous tasteful displays of indigenous and newly introduced species. The 200-acre/81-hectare celebration of flora includes a gorgeous Japanese Garden and a separate palm exhibition, as well as tasteful presentations of orchids and other flowering plants. Unknown to most tourists, but a real treat, the gardens have a stream with rowboats for rent, too. Open daily. US$0.75.

Los Tres Ojos (the Three Eyes) is a lush grotto on the edge of town near the airport. Moss-covered steps lead down 50 ft/15 m through thick tropical foliage to a cave spiked with stalactites and stalagmites. The name comes from three pools of water—one sweet, one salt and one sulfur. US$0.75. Phone 809-591-1492.

The Aquarium, about 1 mi/1.6 km east of the Columbus Lighthouse, has stingrays, moray eels and other denizens of the deep. A glass tunnel will take you under the sea. Open Tuesday-Saturday 9:30 am-6 pm. US$1. Phone 809-592-1509.

One of the largest and best-tended zoos in the Caribbean, the National Zoological Park allows its animals to roam freely over 400 acres/160 hectares north of the city. It also has an aviary and a reptile house. The park is a great picnic place—pick up some snacks before you go. Open daily. US$1 adults. Phone 809-562-3149.

The southern coast of the Dominican Republic is mostly made of coral limestone, with very few beaches. But there are two resorts fairly close to the capital that do have plenty of sand and sun. Boca Chica Beach, popular with both residents and tourists, is about a 30-minute taxi ride east of Santo Domingo (expect to pay about US$20-$25). The area is physically beautiful, with a shallow lagoon full of clear water and cordoned off by reefs. When the tides are low, you can walk out to La Matica, a small, uninhabited island. The town has good shopping and lively bars with merengue music blaring out the doors. Don't expect a peaceful seaside visit in Boca Chica, however: It's crowded, loud and often dirty.

Farther east by about 15 mi/25 km is Juan Dolio, a smaller and narrower beach that's not as hectic as Boca Chica. The water is deeper and the beach cleaner.

SOSUA

This small town southeast of Puerto Plata was founded by German Jewish refugees in the late 1930s who were fleeing Nazi persecution (Dominican dictator Rafael Trujillo oversaw their settlement, hoping to gain favor with the U.S.). The town's Jewish Museum chronicles the experience of the 700 refugees, who established a dairy and a sausage-manufacturing facility. Parts of the original settlement are interesting, especially the businesses run by the descendants of the Jewish immigrants. The town has become popular—some say too popular—with Dominicans and Europeans because of its lovely beaches and dive sites. Because of the crowds and the noise, Sosua has lost some of its charm and sleepy feel. It's also falling prey to random development and a flood of tourist shops. There's some lively nightlife, however, and an arts community. A 10-minute drive east of Sosua is Cabarete, a premier spot for windsurfing. 90 mi/145 km northwest of Santo Domingo.

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History

The area that's now the Dominican Republic was originally inhabited by the Taino people. Their way of life changed drastically in December 1492, when Christopher Columbus came upon the island of Hispaniola (which is now divided between the Dominican Republic and Haiti). On Columbus' second voyage, in 1493, he established the first Spanish colony in the Americas on what's now the north shore of the Dominican Republic. His brother Bartolome stayed to govern, and later moved the capital to what is now Santo Domingo on the south coast. As the early headquarters of the Spanish Empire in the New World, Santo Domingo flourished. It was the first city in New Spain to build a cathedral and found a university -- just two of its many "firsts." Spain's influence began to wane in the late 1600s, and the Spanish ceded the western part of the island -- Haiti -- to France. The Spanish, French, British and Haitians continued to battle for control of eastern Hispaniola until 1844, when Juan Pablo Duarte helped establish the Dominican Republic as an independent nation. The government remained in turmoil well into the 1900s, with the U.S. intervening on several occasions.

Dictator Rafael Trujillo took over in 1930, and his brutal reign continued (he ruled directly and through surrogates) until his assassination in 1961. In the mid 1960s, Joaquin Balaguer took over as president, serving seven terms until the mid 1990s. His opponents often alleged that his electoral victories were fraudulent -- some consider the 1996 election the country's first fair election.

Today, Dominican politics are relatively stable, and the economy is strengthening. Like its neighboring Caribbean countries, the Dominican Republic has a diverse population struggling with a legacy of racial exploitation. Most of the country's 8.4 million residents are descendants of African slaves -- 75% are mixed race (African, European and Amerindian), 11% black and 16% white. Agriculture continues to be the economic mainstay and sugar its most important export. The growing tourism revenues come largely from Europeans and Canadians, the island's most frequent guests.

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Dining

Dominican food is never what you expect. It really isn't Spanish or creole, and it isn't fiercely hot like some Mexican dishes. But you can taste those influences as well as others from Africa, India and the Caribbean in the island's cuisine. You'll notice that Dominican food tends to be a bit heavier than most Caribbean fare. Meal prices are reasonable, especially in restaurants that only serve local food. Whether you dine as the locals do or feast at resort hotels with fellow tourists, you'll eat well, though you will need to know a bit of Spanish when ordering.

If you're hungry between 11:30 am and 3 pm, ask for the plato del dia (plate of the day), which consists of rice and peas or beans (arroz con habichuelas), a salad (usually cabbage, cucumber and a slice of green tomato) and a small meat or fish course -- usually made from a home-grown pig, goat, fowl or local seafood. It is often accompanied with some variety of plantain, the cousin of the banana: platanos (sliced and fried to a mushy sweetness) or mofongo (balls of mashed plantains that have been salted and roasted). A plate lunch at a typical local restaurant will likely cost less than US$4, and will be more than you can eat. Another local dish to try is sanchocho, a thick stew with several different kinds of meat.

In the resort areas, a more upscale meal is likely to include seafood or beef, which is plentiful. (The beef is range-fed in the country's lush interior and is tender and tasty -- order only the best cuts.) Wash down your meal with a cold bottle of Presidente, a quality Dominican pilsner that's practically the national drink.

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Shopping

Shop for local handicrafts, colorful Haitian art, wood carvings, ceramics, mahogany furniture and some duty-free items (but be selective -- perfume usually costs about the same as it does elsewhere). Soapstone carvings -- stylized heads and animals -- are based on original Taino art. If you're interested in amber, shop around for the best quality and prices, and look out for fake amber: True amber floats in water and glows under an ultraviolet light.

Dominican cigars, considered by some aficionados to be better than Cuban cigars, are widely available. If you'd like to make the comparison yourself, Cuban stogies are sold in the country, too (though it's technically illegal to take them back to the U.S.).

Dominican rum (especially Brugal Extra Viejo and Barcello) and Dominican coffee (Cafe Santo Domingo, in particular) make excellent gifts and both are extremely inexpensive.

Bargaining is expected -- even mandatory -- in all but the larger stores

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Climate

Our favorite time to visit is November-March, when days are in the 80s F/28-32 C and nights in the 60s F/15-22 C. The rainy season is May-October, although it generally isn't bad enough to rule out a visit unless a hurricane is predicted. (Hurricanes are possible August-October.) The mountains in the western part of the country are considerably cooler, requiring a sweater or jacket during the evening. Constant breezes keep the temperature and humidity fairly tolerable, though Santo Domingo can be muggy in the summer.

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Health

Medical care is limited. Serious medical problems requiring hospitalization and/or medical evacuation to the U.S. or Europe can cost thousands of dollars or more. Doctors and hospitals often expect immediate cash payment for health services.

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Basics

- Capital City: Santo Domingo
- Dial Code 1: 809, country code
- Economy: Tourism, agriculture, apparel manufacturing.
- Language Description: Spanish.
- Overview: Cash advances on credit cards are available in banks (be sure to ask about surcharges for the transaction). ATMs are located throughout the country, but many areoften out of order. Don't expect to use U.S. dollars outside all-inclusive resorts. Credit cards are readily accepted in resort areas where tourism is heavy (though some establishments may levy surcharges if you use a card -- ask). Don't change more money than you plan to spend. Only 30% of Dominican currency exchanged by visitors can be re-exchanged into other currency upon departure (save currency-exchange receipts). Avoid changing money on the black market.
- Passport/Visa U.S.: U.S. and Canadian citizens need either a passport or proof of citizenship (a certified birth certificate) accompanied by a photo ID. Australian and U.K. citizens need a passport. All travelers need a tourist card (available from airlines for US$10) as well as proof of onward passage and sufficient funds. Reconfirm travel document requirements with your carrier prior to departure.
- Population: 8,442,533
- Religion: Christian (Roman Catholic).
- Time Zone: 4 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time (-4 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is not observed
- Tipping Overview: A 15% service charge/tax is normally included in most restaurant bills, though an additional tip may be given if the service is exceptional. Tipping of taxi drivers is not customary. A 13% service charge/tax is added to most hotel bills.
- Voltage Requirements: 110 volts
- What to Wear: Dress is casual in most of the country. Pack plenty of loose-fitting cotton clothes. If you want to blend in, don't wear shorts. And save your swimsuit for the ocean or the pool. But if you plan to dine at nice restaurants and visit the nightclubs in Santo Domingo, be sure to include some semi-formal attire. Los Dominicanos, as the residents are known, dress with class when they go out. Men wear suits and ties (or at least slacks and a collared shirt) and women wear cocktail dresses.

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Do's and Don'ts

Do attend a Dominican baseball game if you visit during the professional season (late October-late February). The quality of play is excellent.

Do rent a car, if you have time, and explore the Dominican countryside. You'll get a very different view of the country from its small towns and rural areas.

Don't get in a taxi or hire a tour guide without agreeing on a price first.

Do ask a local resident to teach you to dance. Dominicans take great pride in their music and dance—it's a vital part of their national identity.

Don't be in a hurry. Dominicans never are and, as a result, have a reputation of being a bit late for almost everything.

Do tour one of the cigar plants and watch workers roll cigars by hand.

Do expect to encounter people on the beaches anxious to sell you something. A polite "no thank you" and a firm attitude will put an end to any pestering.

Do keep a flashlight handy. Power failures are common, except at hotels and restaurants that have their own generators.

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Passport & Visa

TOURIST CARDS

Issued to travellers visiting the Dominican Republic for touristic purposes for stays of up to 90 days. Tourist cards may be issued on arrival at a cost of US$10, though this can be a lengthy process. Extensions are possible.

Nationals of the following countries are eligible for a Tourist card:

- nationals of Canada and the USA holding appropriate ID such as a Birth Certificate or a Driver's Licence;

- nationals of Germany holding a National Identity Card.

- nationals of Albania, Andorra, Antigua & Barbuda, Argentina, Aruba, Bahamas, Barbados, Brazil, Bulgaria, Chile, Curaçao, Czech Republic, French Overseas Territories, Hawaii, Hungary, Iceland, Israel, Jamaica, Korea (Rep. of), Liechtenstein, Mexico, Monaco, Norway, Paraguay, Peru, Poland, Puerto Rico, Romania, Russian Federation, St Lucia, St Vincent & the Grenadines, San Marino, Surinam, Switzerland, Trinidad & Tobago, Turks and Caicos Islands, Uruguay, US Virgin Islands, Venezuela and Yugoslavia (Serbia and Montenegro);

- foreign nationals who are permanent residents of Canada, Denmark, France, Germany, Greece, Ireland, Italy, The Netherlands, Portugal, Spain, UK and USA.

VISA

Required by all except holders of a Tourist card:

Note: In addition to a valid visa, nationals China (PR) require an authorisation from the Director of the Migration/Immigration Department.

PASSPORT

Passports valid for 6 months after date of departure required by all except:

- nationals of Canada and the USA holding appropriate ID such as a Birth Certificate or a Driver's Licence;

- nationals of Germany holding a National Identity Card.

Note: These nationals will also require Tourist Cards, which may be purchased on arrival.

IMPORTANT: we cannot held responsible for the correctness of this information.

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© Copyright: John Nelson