Where to Go

ARENAL NATIONAL PARK

This park encompasses a large area in northwest Costa Rica, but the most impressive feature—one of the most impressive in the country, in fact—is Arenal Volcano. Arenal has been active since a surprise eruption in 1968, and it's not advisable to climb all the way to the top of the mountain, even though some daring guides will offer to take you. The best place for viewing Arenal is at the base, where a volcano-heated stream flows into a small waterfall and then diverts into a series of mineral baths that are part of Tabacon Hot Springs, a resort complex that accepts day visitors and overnight guests. You can lie in the pools at night and watch the glowing lava flow down the mountainside. Because eruptions and weather are unpredictable, it's best to spend at least one night near the volcano, either in the town of La Fortuna or at one of the lodges in the area. La Fortuna has a good selection of accommodations, and a nearby waterfall is a worthwhile excursion for surefooted hikers. You can also ride horses up to the lava flow if it's a clear day.

Lake Arenal is just west of the volcano, with fishing, hotels and, at the western end of the lake, windsurfing. In fact, some rate it as a world-class spot for the sport because of the strong and constant winds. Traveling between the volcano and the western end of the lake is difficult, however, because of the rough roads.

Although it's only 20 mi/30 km as the crow flies from Arenal Volcano to Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve, the indirect roads and bus connections take the better part of a day. If you're not driving, it's possible to travel via a more direct route, taking a boat across Lake Arenal. We found a great service by jeep, motorboat, then taxi that cut the trip down to just 2.5 hours. 60 mi/100 km northwest of San Jose.

BARRA HONDA NATIONAL PARK

This small park on the Nicoya Peninsula northwest of San Jose protects the flora and fauna of the tropical dry forest and has an extensive network of caves. You can hire local guides to lead you through the caverns, but the descent into the darkness—using a climbing ladder and ropes—is not for the fainthearted. The hike takes an hour over a winding and sometimes steep trail. Several trails in the park lead through the forest to scenic overlooks, which give exhausted hikers a minute to rest while they get their cameras out. 110 mi/175 km northwest of San Jose.

BRAULIO CARRILLO NATIONAL PARK

This largely undeveloped park lies in the mountains between San Jose and Limon. Some of its beautiful mountain scenery and waterfalls can be seen from the San Jose-to-Limon highway. Few travelers make it to the park's interior, given the scarcity of trails and the almost-continuous rainy conditions (even outside of the rainy season). There are a few turnouts along the highway where you can stop for photos, but don't leave your car unattended. Break-ins have become a problem in the park.

Perhaps the easiest way to see Braulio Carrillo is from the Rain Forest Aerial Tram on its eastern border, near the town of Guapiles, about an hour's drive from San Jose. Cars carrying six passengers ascend into the canopy about 120 ft/40 m off the rain-forest floor. The modified ski-lift system was developed by rain-forest research scientist and author Don Perry and was reportedly installed with a minimum of disturbance to the forest. The project, which shares a border with the national park, preserved a rain forest that likely would have been logged. A local guide joins the passengers in each car for the ride. We advise visitors to make special arrangements to ride the tram at dawn or at dusk when animals tend to be more visible. (During our ride, we saw many small birds and an eyelash viper.) The park is open Tuesday-Sunday 6 am-3:30 pm and Monday 9 am-3:30 pm. The tram ride costs about US$50 for adults. The tour also includes a guided trail hike through the forest. Overnight accommodations are available (which need to be reserved in advance), or you can arrange transportation to and from San Jose hotels when you make tram reservations. There is a gift shop, an informal art center and an open-air restaurant where small animals sometimes drop in to clean up leftovers. Reserve tram rides a day in advance. Phone 506-257-5961. Fax 506-257-6053. 40 mi/65 km east of San Jose.

CAHUITA NATIONAL PARK

Created to protect one of Costa Rica's three coral reefs on the Caribbean coast, this park has a nice beach lined with palm trees. There is also a nature trail in the park that runs through the lowland rain forest and provides opportunities for viewing birds and other wildlife, including monkeys, armadillos and sloths. The reef is perfect for snorkeling, because most of it is in shallow water near the coast. Glass-bottomed-boat trips leave from the nearby town of Cahuita. You can also go fishing, kayaking, biking and horseback riding in the area, which has a Caribbean culture, so you can also get your hair braided, listen to reggae and dance all night. Cahuita offers an island feeling, minus the heavy tourist population. 90 mi/145 km southeast of San Jose.

CANO NEGRO NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE

This refuge is a cornucopia of birds and wildlife in north-central Costa Rica. The best way to see it is from the water: Narrow boats leave from Los Chiles near the Nicaraguan border for an enchanting trip down the Rio Frio. Shorebirds cruise the banks alongside caimans and iguanas, while comical Jesus Christ lizards dance across the surface of the water. In the tangled treetops above, howler monkeys can be heard, warning of intruders. Of Costa Rica's six types of kingfishers, four are found along the Rio Frio, as are exquisite roseate spoonbills and jabiru and wood storks. We found Cano Negro to be one of the best places to spot birds and animals—they are more concentrated along the river banks because much of the land around the water has been cleared for farmland. Efforts to return the forests are underway. Be prepared for a long, bumpy ride to Cano Negro—the road to the refuge is very rough. 120 mi/195 km northwest of San Jose.

CARTAGO

Cartago was the country's original capital until San Jose took that distinction in 1823. Cartago was devastated by two earthquakes (in 1841 and 1910). As a result, few old buildings remain, but the ruins of a cathedral stand in a park in the heart of the city. A few blocks away is the Basilica de Nuestra Senora de los Angeles, home of the country's patron saint, La Negrita. The patron saint is honored on 2 August by ticos who make pilgrimages from around the country (having started out sometimes weeks earlier) and walk to Cartago to pray at the basilica. The Lankester Botanical Gardens, near the basilica, has an impressive collection of orchids, most of which bloom in the dry season. A popular picnic spot with Cartagoans is the hot spring in Aguacaliente. 14 mi/23 km east of San Jose.

CHIRRIPO NATIONAL PARK

This park is on the northwest corner of La Amistad International Park, and the main attraction is Mt. Chirripo. At 12,600 ft/3,840 m, it is Costa Rica's highest peak. You'll also see lakes of glacial origin, cloud forests and paramo—a collection of shrubs and herbs that are common to the Andes Mountains in South America. The park can only be entered on foot, and it's a grueling hike—two-days minimum each way, but it's phenomonal. There are cozy, mountaintop cabins where visitors can sleep and recuperate. Entrance fees and cabin space must be prepaid at the MINAE office in San Gerardo de Rivas. If you're interested in visiting, be sure to check on whether the park is open. 60 mi/100 km southeast of San Jose.

COCO ISLAND NATIONAL PARK

Isla del Coco, one of the largest uninhabited islands in the world, provides an unspoiled environment for divers. One of the main attractions is the variety of sharks that live in the surrounding waters. The island was once a refuge for pirates—and supposedly still conceals buried treasure. Visits to this remote place are usually booked through companies that specialize in exotic dive destinations and are part of extended tours (a week or more). 300 mi/485 km off the Pacific coast of Costa Rica.

CORCOVADO NATIONAL PARK

Covering one-third of the Osa Peninsula, Corcovado is one of the country's wildest and most remote parks. Its thick forests, deserted beaches and swamps are home for most of the country's endangered species, including jaguars, tapirs, scarlet macaws, four kinds of monkeys, poison dart frogs and crocodiles. Choose your accommodations carefully—there are quite a few lodges in the area, but many of them are basic (and not all have electricity). Each offers different activities, too—from horseback riding to deep-sea fishing. There are also bunks and camping space at the Sirena ranger station, but they must be reserved at the MINAE ranger station in Puerto Jimenez.

On the northern edge of the park, you'll find the Marenco Biological Reserve. This private reserve is sometimes visited by small ships after they cruise through the remote Golfo Dulce. Passengers are tendered in on small motorized boats. Although the park is small (1,235 acres/500 hectares), its location near the immense Corcovado National Park means there are many more rain-forest creatures than you'd expect in such a small park. This area is especially good for seeing scarlet macaws. The most popular trail is to the Rio Claro's cascades and beautiful swimming holes. 115 mi/185 km southeast of San Jose.

GUAYABO NATIONAL MONUMENT

This park contains the ruins of a lost civilization dating from the 9th century, including pools, roads and the remains of aqueducts. The town is believed to have been the hub of the area before it was abandoned around AD 1400, prior to the arrival of Europeans. 35 mi/55 km northeast of San Jose.

LIMON

Once an important banana port on Costa Rica's Caribbean coast, Limon (pop. 52,000) is better known today as a good jumping-off point for visitors headed to the Cahuita National Park and Tortuguero National Park. The city, which is about 60 mi/100 km east of San Jose, is also a popular stop for cruise ships. Unfortunately, there really isn't much to see or do in Limon itself—unless you are there for the huge Columbus Day Carnival on 12 October. At any other time, we suggest walking to the downtown park, where you can often spot tree sloths. Then find a restaurant serving authentic Caribbean food. You can also take a tour to Isla Uvita, a small island off the coast, where you can kayak, scuba dive and snorkel.

Less than one hour away, to the south, is Puerto Viejo, home to a large population of young foreigners who enjoy surfing, reggae-music discos and a very, very laid-back atmosphere. It also has one of the country's few black-sand beaches, Playa Negro. Rent a bicycle, ride up and down the beaches and enjoy the Caribbean atmosphere.

MANUEL ANTONIO NATIONAL PARK

One of the most popular parks in Costa Rica, Manuel Antonio has become the focus of the debate that concerns Costa Rica as a whole. It was intended to preserve nature, but its popularity also threatens the environment. Responding to some of the ill effects of mass visitation (including pollution from hotels, automobiles and dangerous interactions between humans and wildlife), the government has taken steps to limit the number of visitors to Manuel Antonio: Camping is no longer allowed; the park is closed on Mondays; only 600 visitors are allowed in per day; and, like other parks in the country, the entrance fee has been raised to deter visitors (it now costs about US$10).

Despite these measures, and despite the large numbers of other people you'll encounter at the park, we still think Manuel Antonio is a very worthwhile destination. It has some of the most popular non-Caribbean beaches in Costa Rica along its pristine shoreline and also offers a forest habitat.

After wading through an estuary at the entrance to the park (anywhere from ankle deep to waist deep, depending on the tides), you can choose from a number of exceptional beaches. All have beautiful white sand. Playa Espadilla Sur—also called "Second Beach"—is especially good for snorkeling and swimming. A network of trails runs through the forest, allowing you to observe an abundance of wildlife: birds, white-faced capuchin monkeys, coatis, sloths and colorful crabs and lizards. There are a number of activities that you can enjoy in the area surrounding the park, including rafting, surfing, sea kayaking, horseback riding and sportfishing (especially for sailfish mid December-late April). One excursion to consider is the Canopy-Safari trip, which includes breakfast, a jeep ride into the forest and zip-lining/rappeling through the forest. You can go in the morning and still have some beach time when you return.

If you're planning to stay several days in the Manuel Antonio area, try to get a room at one of the hotels that line the road between the park and the town of Quepos. They're more expensive than those in town, and you must book well in advance, but they're worth it: Many are discreetly built into the jungle and bring you close to the wildlife—we saw a sloth ever-so-slowly cross the road in front of our hotel. Quepos, on the other hand, is a grubby, dusty little port with extremely rudimentary accommodations and poor restaurants: We were thankful we'd brought food from San Jose. Although the town has little else to offer, it is wonderful for catching up on your souvenir shopping. The town boasts a large number of shops and art galleries.

After visiting the park, you may want to stop at Jardin Gaia, an animal shelter along the road between Quepos and Manuel Antonio. It provides temporary care for injured animals and for those confiscated from poachers. We saw toucans, red-lored parrots and endangered squirrel monkeys, as well as a dozen scarlet macaws flying around their cage like a flag ceremony. 30 mi/48 km south of San Jose.

MONTEVERDE CLOUD FOREST RESERVE

If the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve were Costa Rica's only attraction, nature lovers would still flock to the country. This rain forest on the steep slopes of a mountain range is home to rare and unusual wildlife, including jaguars and pumas, although the thick vegetation can make viewing them difficult. Among the 450 species of birds in the reserve are the emerald toucanets and the world's largest population of quetzal birds. We were most impressed with the call of the three-wattled bellbird, which emits a loud, electronic-sounding "bonk" in the ear of a potential mate. The best birding occurs from September to April, because many of the birds are migratory.

Getting to Monteverde can be tough: You have to spend several hours on dreadful roads, so a visit of several days is recommended. An extended stay is an even better idea in high season (December to May), because you may have to wait a few hours to be admitted to the park (the number of people allowed in is limited). The hiking trails in the reserve are excellent, but sometimes muddy. Rain gear is a good idea in this wet, rain-forest environment, as is warm clothing.

The community of Monteverde, near the reserve, is an interesting stop. It was founded in the early 1950s by American Quakers who were attracted to Costa Rica because it has no army. The Quakers built a cheese factory in this pleasant town and have taken charge of maintaining the Cloud Forest Reserve and raising funds for its expansion. If you visit the cheese factory, you can try all of the local specialties, including the beloved Palmito cheese. (If not, you can purchase Monteverde cheese in any market.) Comfortable accommodations are available, but be sure to book well in advance. It can be difficult to get around Monteverde because of its mountainous terrain, but cabs (all four-wheel-drive vehicles) are easily accessible and affordable.

Small businesses have sprung up to cater to the influx of travelers. The businesses are, appropriately, environmentally sensitive—from a hummingbird feeder gallery to cooperatives selling local women's needlework to a small butterfly garden (we loved seeing the ingenious camouflage techniques employed by caterpillars and chrysalises—some looked like leaves, raindrops or bad-tasting beetles). 120 mi/195 km northwest of San Jose.

MONTEZUMA

This lazy little seaside village on the southern tip of the Nicoya Peninsula attracts an offbeat clientele (on the beach we saw women engaged in psychic channeling), but has become increasingly popular with the local elite. Although there are a number of places to stay, you definitely won't find a five-star hotel in Montezuma. Places range from very nice to extremely inexpensive (some are downright primitive). If you're looking for a North American crowd, Sano Banano, owned by the parents of actor Joaquin Phoenix, has a vegetarian restaurant and cabins for rent (they even show Hollywood movies). Montezuma is on the way to Cabo Blanco Nature Reserve. Be forewarned: The area can be inaccessible at times during the rainy season because of washed-out roads. 75 mi/120 km west of San Jose.

PALO VERDE NATIONAL PARK

A major attraction of this park is the seasonal swampland that provides temporary habitat for thousands of migratory waterbirds (November to February). But the tropical dry forest that covers most of the park also contains such animals as coatis, agoutis, monkeys, white-tailed deer and black iguanas. (Palo Verde is open daily 9 am-5 pm.) Nearby is Curu National Wildlife Refuge, a privately owned preserve that can be visited only with prior permission (you enter through a cattle pasture). Its beaches are nesting areas for leatherback, ridley and hawksbill turtles. An astounding variety of birds—more than 110 species—has been sighted in the small park. 45 mi/72 km west of San Jose.

POAS VOLCANO NATIONAL PARK

An easy trip from San Jose, Poas Volcano (8,800 ft/2,700 m high) has what is said to be the world's largest active crater. A short hike leads to the rim, where you can see the muddy lake that often emits a puff of sulfuric smoke. The park has been closed on occasion (two times since the mid 1980s) because of small eruptions. Stone steps lead you up through the lush cloud forest to another crater, Botos Lake, that is extinct and filled with emerald waters. During the rainy season, it's best to visit the park early in the morning, before it gets foggy, otherwise you're likely to sit for hours waiting for the clouds to clear up. 35 mi/55 km northwest of San Jose.

PUNTARENAS

This small Pacific-coast city, about 50 mi/80 km west of San Jose, is making a comeback as a port and resort town. Built on a narrow peninsula, its central location on the west coast has always made it a good place from which to visit nearby national parks. It has also been the best place to catch ferries to the Nicoya Peninsula or to take day cruises to nearby islands. But Puntarenas itself didn't have much to offer. That is changing: The city's once-polluted beach has been cleaned up and refurbished with sand. And the dock area, where large cruise ships dock, has been transformed into a pleasant place to stroll. New restaurants and shops now line the malecon, a pedestrian walkway that runs along the waterfront north of town. Ticos on weekend holiday are again mingling with tourists there. Take an hour or so to explore the city—it's a good place to shop for supplies and souvenirs and take photos.

RINCON DE LA VIEJO NATIONAL PARK

Covering the upper slopes of a forest-draped volcano, this park's main attraction is a 125-acre/50-hectare expanse that contains small geysers, bubbling mud pots and hot springs. The forests above hold hidden waterfalls and a wealth of wildlife, including quetzals, three-wattled bellbirds, morpho butterflies, tapirs, coatis and three species of monkeys. 75 mi/120 km northwest of San Jose.

SAN JOSE

Most travelers go to San Jose to get somewhere else in the country -- to tour Costa Rica's rain forests, volcanoes and nature preserves. It does make a good base: Volcanoes and mountains ring the city's neighborhoods and suburbs, and cloud forests, raging rivers and rain forests lie within a few hours' drive. But the city has attractions of its own that are worth exploring. The social, political and commercial center of Costa Rica, San Jose is a pleasant place to visit, and it's more cosmopolitan and prosperous than most Central American cities.

True, it is a mishmash of historic colonial structures, glass high-rises and rundown buildings. And the streets are often plagued by congestion and pollution. But San Jose's older neighborhoods are undergoing a renaissance thanks to the growing tourist industry. Gourmet restaurants, galleries and boutique hotels are rising in the heart of the city. The generally cool weather (because of the city's location in the Central Valley, surrounded by mountains) is warmed by the ticos, as locals are known. They're friendly hosts who will do their best to make your stay enjoyable.

SANTA ROSA NATIONAL PARK

This Pacific coast park was the scene of Costa Rica's most famous military victory in 1856. An army, led by U.S. adventurer William Walker, invaded from neighboring Nicaragua and fought fiercely for about 15 minutes before being defeated by Costa Ricans. The park is now the site of one of the largest remaining dry tropical forests in Central America. Monkeys, armadillos, anteaters and deer are the main attractions. (Pacific oliveback ridley sea turtles nest at night on Nancite Beach during September and October.) The park also has mangrove estuaries, beautiful deserted beaches and many birds. Unfortunately, the old farmhouse that housed a museum has burned down. 125 mi/200 km northwest of San Jose.

SARCHI

This town is the artisan center of the country. Located about 40 mi/65 km northwest of San Jose, Sarchi enjoys a lovely setting amid mountains and valleys planted with pineapple, sugarcane and coffee plants. You can watch artists paint colorful designs on the country's trademark oxcarts, which originated there and now come in all sizes. While the town has many charming shops, most sell the same items and have become overrun with tourists, especially on weekends. (Go during the week, if possible.) Also, prices for the same objects are often better elsewhere in the country. On your way there from San Jose, stop in Grecia to visit the town church, which was imported from Belgium in 1890. Also nearby is Alajuela (about 11 mi/18 km northwest of San Jose), home to a butterfly farm that is one of the Western Hemisphere's leading exporters of butterflies. It's a beautiful place that's often included in guided tours.

TAPANTI NATIONAL PARK

Located in a corner of the Orosi Valley, this quiet refuge protects a luxuriant cloud forest, a spectacular waterfall and an emerald river that is perfect for swimming. The forests that drape the steep terrain contain some 211 species of birds, including quetzals, but the dense foliage makes them tough to spot. 25 mi/40 km southeast of San Jose.

TORTUGA ISLAND

This island in the Gulf of Nicoya is usually seen as part of a popular day-trip excursion that begins with a bus ride from San Jose to Puntarenas. From there, a boat takes you to the island for a day of snorkeling, canoeing or lying around. There are several companies that offer the trip, and most include a hot lunch served on the beach. Among the companies is Calypso's Catamaran Cruises, which also offers day cruises to the Punta Coral Private Reserve. Phone 506-256-2727. 50 mi/80 km west of San Jose.

TORTUGUERO NATIONAL PARK

A lush, tropical jungle, Tortuguero offers the opportunity to see monkeys, sloths and crocodiles. Toured in small outboard boats or dugout canoes, the park is best seen in August, when the green sea turtle comes ashore at night to nest and lay eggs. Keep in mind this is the rainy season: Take plenty of film and something to keep your camera dry. If you have time, plan to spend at least a night in one of the jungle lodges tucked along the canals so you can take a night turtle-watching excursion or a predawn boat ride to observe the birds and animals. (Before visiting the area, read Archie Carr's book So Excellent a Fishe, which provides a good description of the life of the green turtle.) 55 mi/90 km northeast of San Jose.

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History

Columbus first saw this portion of Central America in 1502, on his last trip to the New World. Spanish settlement did not begin until the mid 1500s, however, because early expeditions were beset by disease and local resistance from the Guaymi people. The Spanish did find some gold in the area -- inspiring the name Costa Rica (Rich Coast) -- but not the large reserves they were hoping for.

Colonization proceeded slowly along the east coast until the colonists finally moved to the fertile valleys and mesas of the interior, known as the Central Valley. Geography kept the plantation system, with its attendant slavery, from developing. Instead, the colonists gathered near the indigenous communities and built ranches and farms. The towns grew into distinct provinces that even today have their own character and history. That independence and self-reliance is thought to be the reason democracy came more naturally to Costa Rica than to its neighbors when the country gained its independence in the early 1820s. Brief civil wars erupted among the major cities, but the more liberal forces of San Jose emerged victorious, which moved the country toward fair, democratic elections in the late 1800s.

In the 1940s, the country became politically polarized, and civil war broke out once again. After a brief struggle, Jose Maria "Don Pepe" Figueres emerged as the country's leader. He continued to be a central figure in Costa Rican politics through the 1970s, overseeing reforms that helped keep the country peaceful and prosperous in a region known for its armed conflicts and wretched poverty. Costa Rica abolished its military in 1948 and invested in education and public health facilities, actions that helped prevent a flood of rural poor into the major cities. These measures have prompted many to view Costa Rica as a model Latin American country, although it has had its share of economic problems in the 1980s and '90s. More difficult times may lie ahead: The country has been forced to cut back on its expensive social programs in order to reduce the national debt.

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Dining

It's almost easier to find a U.S. fast-food outlet than a restaurant serving good Costa Rican cuisine, but with a little legwork you should be able to enjoy some of the local specialties. We particularly enjoyed the tamales and corvina (sea bass). Don't order mondongo unless you like tripe. A casado (which means "married") is a set-price meal, often eaten for lunch, which consists of black beans, rice, meat and either yucca or fried banana. Gallo pinto, black beans and rice alone, becomes addictive.

Other local specialties are palmitos (hearts of palm, usually served in a salad) and cajeta (a thick dessert made of milk and sugar). Bocas are appetizers, ranging from fried potatoes and yucca to broiled steak and fish, that are served with beer or cocktails. Meals are especially nice when accompanied by fresh juice, and there are all kinds of wonderful tropical fruits, including mangoes, papayas and zapotes (a fruit with an orangelike pulp and the appearance of an avocado). San Jose also has a wide variety of international cuisine (including excellent Chinese and Italian food).

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Shopping

Shop for replicas of pre-Columbian jewelry, pottery, coffee, miniature ox carts, necklaces and earrings made of semiprecious stones, hand-painted feathers, wood carvings and leather goods. Don't expect to find the large number of inexpensive and high-quality handmade articles available in some Central American countries. For local treats such as coffee, rum, coffee liqueur, macadamia nuts and hearts of palm, try shopping at grocery stores: The prices are usually much better than in gift shops, and you'll find a wider selection. (Coffee is relatively cheap in Costa Rica: A law requires that a portion of the annual crop remain in the country for domestic consumption.)

San Jose has some of the best options for shopping (though it may seem on first glance that every other shop is either a shoe store or a photography studio). On the weekends, vendors set up shop in Plaza de la Cultura, offering T-shirts, leather goods, jewelry and other handicrafts. The rows of stalls on the west end of the Plaza de la Democracia have similar fare. The crowded Central Market has practically everything from fresh fruits and vegetables to souvenirs. Across the street is the Flower Market, which has more handicraft items. The National Artisans Market sells reproductions of pre-Columbian gold jewelry and wood carvings, while the souvenir marketplace at La Casona offers a substantial supply of affordable gifts.

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Climate

The best time to visit is December-May, when it rains least. We would suggest avoiding both Christmas week and Easter, when everyone seems to be at the beach (businesses are shut down and all the hotels are full). January is our favorite time to go, in terms of weather, but Costa Rica is really a year-round destination. Tourism promoters are trying to encourage travel in the rainy season (June-October) -- it's being sold as the "green season." The vegetation looks nicer at that time and prices are lower, but you can almost be guaranteed a good thunderstorm every day in late afternoon or early evening, though they don't last for long. Except for the rain, the climate is fairly similar year-round. The inland temperatures are moderate, and a breeze is almost always blowing, but the coastal areas tend to be hot and steamy. The mountains can be quite cool at night, so take a sweater. And take some rain gear or an umbrella no matter when you're visiting.

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Health

Medical facilities are available, but may be limited outside urban areas. Serious medical problems requiring hospitalization and/or medical evacuation to the U.S. or Europe can cost thousands of dollars or more. Doctors and hospitals often expect immediate cash payment for health services.

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Basics

- Capital City: San Jose
- Dial Code 1: 506, country code
- Economy: Industry, agriculture, tourism.
- Language Description: Spanish and English.
- Passport/Visa U.S.: U.S. and Canadian citizens need passports but not visas (though U.S. citizens have routinely been admitted for visits of up to 90 days with only proof of citizenship, such as an original birth certificate, accompanied by photo ID). Proof of sufficient funds and onward passage are also required. Reconfirm travel document requirements with your carrier before departure.
- Population: 3,710,558
- Religion: Christian (Roman Catholic).
- Time Zone: 6 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time (-6 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is not observed
- Tipping Overview: Add a small tip for good service on top of the 10% service charge already added in restaurants. Tip tour guides but not taxi drivers.
- Voltage Requirements: 110 volts
- What to Wear: Dress in Costa Rica is conservatively casual. Bathing suits and short shorts are for the beach or river rafting. You'll feel comfortable during the day in casual sports clothes, but in a good restaurant at night, you should adhere to local customs -- in San Jose, Tico men wear jackets and ties and women wear skirts or dresses (though dressy slacks are becoming more acceptable). Dress conservatively in the countryside. For hiking, wear your most comfortable shoes (which will most likely get very muddy) or hiking boots, along with lightweight long pants and long-sleeved shirts. Take along a hat, not only as protection against the sun, but to keep leaves and other rain-forest debris out of your hair. Carry a light raincoat or poncho (and stick a couple of plastic bags in your pocket to protect your camera).

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Do's and Don'ts

Do expect to see cowboys (sabaneros) in the Guanacaste region in northwestern Costa Rica. It's cattle country. (Fiestas Tipicas are held throughout the province around 25 July, when bullfights, dances and excellent horsemanship are on display.)

Don't jump into the ocean before inquiring about the presence of riptides.

Do take along fast film if you're planning to shoot pictures in the rain forest. About 90% of the light gets filtered out at the canopy level and never reaches the jungle floor.

Do beware of monkeys. Spider monkeys are known to throw branches at intruders. The capuchin monkeys in Manuel Antonio National Park, which sometimes approach visitors looking for handouts, have been known to bite those who try to touch them. Keep your distance from all monkeys and don't feed them.

Don't tangle with any snakes in the parks. While rarely seen, there are a few poisonous varieties to watch out for, such as the bushmaster and the aggressive fer-de-lance.

Do reconfirm airline reservations out of the country. Reservations are frequently canceled, particularly during the December-January holidays, if they're not confirmed more than 72 hours in advance. Car-rental reservations may also be canceled if you arrive late—unless you let the rental company know that your flight is delayed.

Do buy airline tickets before you get to Costa Rica (tickets bought in the country are heavily taxed).

Do take plenty of socks, cotton shirts and T-shirts no matter when you go: You'll need to change frequently in the hot and wet conditions.

Don't go near sea turtles when they are nesting. Watch from a respectable distance.

Don't leave the trail in parks and reserves: It's easy to get lost in a tropical forest, especially a cloud forest.

Do take along motion-sickness medicine on car rides if it's a problem for you. Most highways in Costa Rica include a few hairpin sections.

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Passport & Visa

Citizens of the following countries don't require a visa:

- nationals of the UK and its dependencies for stays of up to 90 days (except nationals of Bermuda and the Cayman Islands, who may stay for up to 30 days);

- nationals of Argentina, Austria, Belgium, Brazil, Canada, Denmark, Finland, Germany, Hong Kong, Hungary, Israel, Italy, Japan, Korea (Rep. of), Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Netherlands, Norway, Panama, Paraguay, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, USA and Uruguay for a stay of up to 90 days;

- nationals of Antigua & Barbuda, Australia, Bahamas, Bahrain, Barbados, Belize, Bolivia, Bulgaria, Chile, Colombia, Czech Republic, Dominica, France, French Overseas Possessions, Grenada, Guatemala, Guyana, Honduras, Iceland, Ireland, Jamaica, Kenya, Kuwait, Mexico, Monaco, New Zealand, Oman, Philippines, Qatar, Russian Federation, St Kitts & Nevis, St Lucia, St Vincent & The Grenadines, San Marino, Saudi Arabia, Singapore, Slovak Republic, South Africa, Surinam, Taiwan (China), Trinidad & Tobago, UAE, Vatican City and Venezuela for a period of 30 days.

Al other nationals require a visa. In some cases an authorisation from the Immigration Department in San José is also necessary.

Temporary visitors must hold return or onward tickets, except those holding a visa showing an exit ticket is not required.

PASSPORT

Citizens of the following countries require a passport:

- Passport valid for at least 6 months at date of entry required by all, except Canadian and US citizens with proof of identity, (a Certified Birth Certificate and official ID containing a photograph). Tourist Cards will be issued to these nationals either at a Costa Rican Consulate or at any airline office at the airports of: Amsterdam, Aruba, Barranquilla, Caracas, Curaçao, Panama and Port of Spain for approximately US$2. .

IMPORTANT: we cannot held responsible for the correctness of this information.

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