DESTINATION GUIDES > COUNTRIES

Chile

Yet Chile is one of the most modern and convenient travel destinations in South America. In many places, it has a European feel -- along with European-style prices that are high in comparison with the rest of the continent. Historical sites, skiing, fjords, desert, glaciers, hiking, geoglyphs, beaches, Easter Island, river rafting, Tierra del Fuego, the Lake District, trout fishing and scenery are Chile's chief attractions. Nearly everyone will find something of interest in Chile...

Where to Go

ANTOFAGASTA

An unlikely tourist destination, this port city (pop. 226,000) is rarely visited. It is primarily an export point for minerals mined in the nearby Atacama Desert. About the only thing that would recommend Antofagasta to visitors is that it is a bit easier to get to than Calama, the other main city of the barren region. Sights in Antofagasta include La Portada Arch, a regional history museum and the Plaza Colon. Inside the plaza are monuments donated by the many different foreign communities of Antofagasta: a Slavic bandstand, a Spanish monument to Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain, and a British clock tower (which is, of course, a replica of London's Big Ben). 750 mi/1,200 km north of Santiago.

ARICA

Called the City of Eternal Spring for its warm ocean waters and relatively gentle climate, Arica (pop. 169,000) doesn't look like much, but it has become something of a resort for Chileans and Bolivians. Located on the coast, at the edge of the Atacama Desert, Arica is sunny year-round, so beach activities are popular (even though the sand is a little grayish). Unlike most of the country's coast, the ocean around Arica is pleasantly warm. There are nice tropical gardens and parks, too. Climb El Morro, a nearby hill with views of the region. In town, see the Church of San Marcos, designed by Gustave Eiffel, and the handicraft village (pueblo artesanal), which sells good knit garments, ceramics, stone carvings and pottery.

One day trip everyone must make is to the archaeological museum at nearby San Miguel de Azapa. The museum's prize possessions are 96 Chinchorro mummies, the world's oldest mummified remains—3,000 years older than the ones in Eygpt. If you have a few days, stop off to see the beautiful Lauca National Park (east of the city). 1,050 mi/1,690 km north of Santiago.

ATACAMA DESERT

Said to be the driest spot on Earth (it almost never rains there), this fascinating, barren land of lava fields, rolling dunes, volcanoes and scorched rock stretches some 600 mi/1,000 km north-south in northern Chile, covering nearly a quarter of the country. Often called the Valley of the Moon for its lunarlike landscape (there's also a specific area by the same name), the Atacama Desert can be reached via airports in Antofagasta, Arica, Calama or Iquique. The only people who live there are employed in mineral production.

In the desert are geoglyphs: huge, ancient drawings of animals. You can also see oases, beaches, old mines and deserted mining towns. The best time to visit is June-October (during Chile's winter). We spent five days in the area and thoroughly enjoyed it (but we like barren scenery). Others might want to stay just two or three days, especially if you have only limited time to see the rest of the country. Be aware that there's no nightlife and that it's very hot and dusty. If you like Death Valley, the Australian outback or the Sahara Desert—or are attracted by a landscape resembling the surface of Mars—you'll probably enjoy the Atacama.

CALAMA

This mining town (pop. 120,000) lies in the heart of the Atacama Desert. Life in the area centers on one of the world's largest open-pit copper mines (the mine itself is 10 mi/16 km away, in Chuquicamata). Formerly owned by the U.S. Anaconda Copper Company, the 1,000-ft-/300-m-deep mine is now state owned. Skip the tour of the mine—although it takes four hours, you won't ever see the pit.

The town of Calama can be seen in a matter of minutes, but it can also serve as a base for excursions. Nearby San Pedro de Atacama (a three-hour, 60-mi/100-km drive), set at an elevation of 8,000 ft/2,500 m, has Le Paige Museum, which exhibits mummies and Stone Age tools found in the desert during excavations by a Jesuit priest. The museum's mummies are quite a sight—some are seated in glass cases, others in earthen jars and most still have their skin, eyelashes and thick brown hair. While in San Pedro, also see the local church, several excavated Indian sites and the recently restored ancient Indian fortress of Pukara Quitor.

From San Pedro you can go on to the nearby salt flats (the largest in Chile) to see a colony of flamingos. Another trip—a very full day—might take in remote Chiu-Chiu (a colonial oasis with a 16th-century church, rock carvings and ancient fortress), the Valley of the Moon (eerie scenery) and the city of Toconao (volcanic-rock carvings and natural pools where you can swim). There's one other very exciting experience, but it requires departing your hotel at 3:30 am: The Tatio Geyserfield, a series of magnificent vapor jets (some shooting more than 33 ft/10 m high). They present an otherworldly spectacle at around 6:30 am. Afterward, you can stop by the Puritama Baths, a wide rock pool with a waterfall and a spring (take your swimsuit). 800 mi/1,300 km north of Santiago.

CHACABUCO

This small coastal city is one of the gateways to the Aisen region. The town itself is actually on a fjord, and both the coast and inland area of the Aisen have an untamed beauty that can hardly be described. It's a region of beautiful lakes and valleys, cliffs and waterfalls, rivers and ravines. 12 mi/19 km north of Santiago.

CHILLAN

Birthplace of independence hero Bernardo O'Higgins, Chillan (pop. 158,000) offers a pleasant overnight if you're driving through central Chile. Little remains of the original town, called Chillan Viejo, founded in 1579 (and twice destroyed by earthquakes). The city has a new cathedral, a nice market, a park and a mural dedicated to O'Higgins. The nearby ski center of Termas de Chillan has good slopes and one of the longest ski seasons in Chile (May-October). It also has thermal baths. We enjoyed an excursion to some sulfur springs and the impressive Laja Falls (45 mi/70 km south), where water plunges about 250 ft/75 m into a rocky gorge. 300 mi/485 km south of Santiago.

CHILOE ISLAND

This island of dense evergreen forests and fjords has a fascinating history. The Amerindians who lived there were the last to be conquered by the Spanish (and, subsequently, their conquerors were the last of the Spaniards to agree to join independent Chile). It was also among the South American coastal islands visited by naturalist Charles Darwin.

Castro, the capital, is a very old town with lovely palafitos—houses built on stilts—along the banks of the Gamboa River. The Iglesia San Francisco de Castro, a cathedral built shortly after the turn of the 20th century is unmistakable. It's painted bright orange, and contains bizarre statuary and gruesome representations of the Crucifixion. There are other interesting towns on the island, including Dalcahue and Ancud (which is famous for its unusual wooden churches). Though the weather on the island is usually foggy and cool, the climate adds to, rather than detracts from, Chiloe's atmospheric beauty. Transportation around the island is primarily by boat, bicycle or horse. Chiloe Island is also a good place to shop for woolen sweaters. About 600 mi/965 km south of Santiago.

CONCEPCION

This central Chilean city (pop. 306,000) is the country's fifth-largest, but it's not really worth going out of your way to see unless you love Chilean art. If you find yourself there, visit the downtown cathedral and the Pinacoteca de Concepcion Museum, which contains the country's best collection of Chilean paintings. 260 mi/420 km southwest of Santiago.

EASTER ISLAND

The ancient inhabitants of this 45-sq-mi/115-sq-km island called it Te Pito o Te Henua (the Navel of the World). Visitors today often call it the world's largest open-air museum. It has a fascinating—and tragic—history. Easter Island, the most isolated island in the world, is believed to have been settled by Polynesians who ventured across the Pacific from the Marquesas Islands. Settling on Rapa Nui (the Polynesian name for Easter Island), they tilled the land and used the native palm trees both for their houses and fishing boats. But their most spectacular and permanent constructions were the moais, huge images of gods carved from volcanic stone and set all around the island, facing the sea. (The moais are estimated to weigh 50-90 tons/45,000-80,000 kg.)

The islanders believed the gods conferred mana, or spiritual power, and kept their fields fertile and the ocean fishes plentiful. All went well until the last palm tree was chopped down—then, all the mana on the island was insufficient to prevent soil erosion or to provide construction material for fishing boats. In about 1580, famine swept the island, and a series of civil wars followed, lasting 250 years. It was during these wars that Dutch navigator Jacob Roggeveen first saw the island on Easter Sunday, 1722.

Early in the 19th century, Peruvian slavers carried away or killed a significant portion of the population. In 1862, some islanders were returned to raise sugar crops, but they carried smallpox and other diseases. The resultant epidemics reduced the population to 111 by 1900. There are no pure Easter Islanders left in the population of about 3,000 today—the people are a mixture of Polynesian and Spanish. The official language is Spanish, but Rapa-nui (the native language) is also spoken.

The only real town of note, Hanga Roa, can be seen in five minutes. Many tours begin at Father Englebert's Archaeological Museum (it provides a so-so orientation to the island and most of the items in the museum are reproductions) and then continue to some of the ancient sites (such as Ahu Tahai, Orongo, Ahu Vaihu and Rano Kau). It's possible to tour on your own, but we recommend having a guide at least part of the first day to give you the details. The highlight of any visit to Easter Island are the moais and Rano Raraku Quarry, which alone has more than 300 moais, including one that's the size of a 7-story building. At the quarry, you can see moais in various stages of completion, from a rough outline in the ground to the nearly finished product (apparently the carvers simply laid down their tools one day, never to take them up again).

Also be sure to visit some of the 2,000 caves that contain the bones of those who fled to escape the civil wars. On the western coast of the island, near Orongo, is a cliff and petroglyph-covered altar, the center of the bird man-worshipping cult that sprang up after the stone deities "lost" their power. On one of our visits, we toured this area on horseback, a very nice alternative to cars and Land Rovers.

The island has volcanic lava cliffs, beautiful flowers, unpaved roads, clear air and hundreds of horses and sheep. Anakena, where one moai has been restored to its original state, has a fairly good beach. Be prepared for many (nonbiting) flies and constant wind.

Try to attend a sau sau feast (luau-type meal) and, if you're there on a Sunday, one of the fabulous Rapa-nui masses. In early February, the Tapati festival celebrates the island's distinctive culture.

The only ways to get to Easter Island by air are via Santiago and Papeete, Tahiti (it's equidistant from the Chilean mainland and Tahiti). If you're not continuing on a South American tour, we suggest going on to Tahiti rather than going back to Santiago.

Hotels on Easter Island aren't deluxe, but they're more than adequate (and about three times as costly as those in Chile). For a change of pace, plan to spend one night in one of the residenciales, which are local homes. 2,300 mi/3,750 km west of Santiago.

GEOGLYPHS

These giant, mystical designs were constructed on hillsides throughout the Atacama desert, some more than a thousand years ago. They are combinations of dark and light rocks that when viewed from a distance become arrows, fertility symbols, animals and people. The Pintados (60 mi/96 km south of Iquique), one of the larger groups of geoglyphs, covers a huge area and contain more than 400 figures. Some wear headdresses that resemble space helmets. There are other sites near Atica and Cerro Unida, which has the Giant of the Atacama, a 400-ft-/130-m-long representation of a human figure.

GLACIER CRUISE

A cruise through Chile's Inside Passage, the Beagle Channel and around the Cape Horn passage is a wondrous combination of the best of the Alaskan Inside Passage, Norwegian fjords, Antarctica and southern New Zealand. Glaciers, unusual fauna and flora, fishing villages, fjords and icebergs combine to dazzle visitors, but they form only part of the experience: Passengers usually have the opportunity to disembark at various points along the way and can visit with residents to learn what it's like to live in these desolate places.

A cruise through Laguna San Rafael, set in an absolutely spectacular glacial valley dominated by beautiful mountains, is one of the highlights. A 2-mi-/3-km-wide glacier noisily calves icebergs and sets them adrift in the water. It's truly an extraordinary experience to wind through these huge, floating blocks of ice and snow. Some cruises dock at Puerto Natales to allow passengers to spend time in Parque Nacional Torres del Paine. The next segment passes the most impressive fjords of Chile—a truly dramatic sight, especially when seen from the water. The area around Bahia Garibaldi (Garibaldi Bay) is known for its high concentration of ice fields and active glaciers.

From this point, the scenery becomes somewhat less dramatic, but the cruise through Beagle Channel (named for Charles Darwin's ship, the HMS Beagle) and the passage around Cape Horn (the southernmost point of South America) provides additional opportunities for seeing glaciers, icebergs and fjords (you'll see quite a few penguins in the area as well). Cruise ships depart from Puerto Montt. Some offer landfall on the Argentine portion of Tierra del Fuego.

There's also a shorter run (three days) on smaller vessels between Puerto Montt and Puerto Natales, but we think it's worth the time and money for the longer trip.

IQUIQUE

Once a busy Bolivian port, Iquique (pop. 152,000) is an ore-exporting city in Chile's Atacama Desert. In town, see the main plaza and gardens (the topsoil had to be imported), the clock tower and a museum that commemorates the naval heroes of the War of the Pacific. But perhaps the main reason to go to Iquique is to see the geoglyphs in the area. Both sites can be reached by hired car. Another close-by attraction is the ghost town of Humberstone, complete with rusting machinery and rail relics left over from the nitrate-mining days. 920 mi/1,480 km north of Santiago.

JUAN FERNANDEZ ISLANDS

These islands, out in the Pacific, can be interesting destinations. The main islands are Alejandro Selkirk and Robinson Crusoe (sailor Alejandro Selkirk was marooned on one of these islands for nearly five years; his story inspired Daniel Defoe's Robinson Crusoe). The primary reasons for visiting Alejandro Selkirk are to view the rugged volcanic formations, meet its hardy fishermen and eat the fabulous local lobster. Robinson Crusoe is inhabited by fur seals and covered by lush vegetation, including ferns that grow to the size of trees.

These isolated islands are visited only by specialty cruises, private yachts and, December-February, small aircraft from Santiago. The flights are subject to demand and weather—check with Transportes Aereos Robinson Crusoe (TARC), which operates out of Santiago's small Cerrillos Airport. You may have to book through a Santiago-based travel outfitter. During the rest of the year, plane and boat rides (from Valparaiso) are irregular at best. Most cruises spend one day at each island. About 600 mi/965 km west of Santiago.

LA SERENA

Set along the Pan American Highway, La Serena (pop. 107,000) has become a beach resort popular with wealthy Chileans and Argentinians. It contains some of the best-preserved examples of Spanish colonial-style architecture in Chile. Visit the Plaza de Armas, with its 16th-century cathedral (which has a death mask of the Nobel Prize-winning poet, Gabriela Mistral), and see the moai (a giant stone figure transported from Easter Island) on Santa Lucia Hill. There's also a large geological museum in town. North of the city are good beaches such as Punta Teatinos or Playa El Temblador. 290 mi/465 km north of Santiago.

LAKE DISTRICT

We recommend seeing this very green, very pretty area in southern Chile on a package tour because both bus and hotel space are often very limited. We like to see the district on a trip from Puerto Montt to Bariloche, Argentina. The journey can be made on one long and tiring day trip or in a more leisurely manner by overnighting in Peulla. Catch your bus in Puerto Montt and ride to Puerto Varas (13 mi/21 km), then continue another 40 mi/65 km along Lago Llanquihue, stopping to see Petrohue Falls (with Osorno Volcano in the background). Stop again at Lago Todos los Santos (All Saints Lake) or Lago Esmeralda (emerald green water), where you board a boat for the three-hour ride to Peulla, on the eastern shore about 20 mi/32 km from the Argentine border. Clear Argentine customs at Puerto Frias on Lago Frias, then board a boat for the 20-minute ride to Puerto Alegre. Catch a bus there for Puerto Blest, then change to a boat for a three-hour cruise across Lago Nahuel Huapi to the Llao-Llao Peninsula. It's about a 20-minute bus ride from there to San Carlos de Bariloche (Argentina).

Another option involves staying one or two nights in the town of Ralun, farther to the south, and then leaving in the morning for the drive to Petrohue Falls, continuing on from there as described above. The town of Frutillar has a classical music festival each winter and is noted for its German desserts.

We think the best time to see the district is from December to mid March, when the weather is warm and rain is less likely. Alternatively, winter (June-September) can be a fun time to visit because of the additional snow on the mountains (there are numerous ski resorts in the region). The Lake District lies northeast of Puerto Montt, about 560 mi/900 km south of Santiago.

LAUCA NATIONAL PARK

This high mountain park is filled with flamingos, rheas (an ostrichlike bird), vicuna and some of Chile's most spectacular scenery. If you visit, plan a day or so to adjust to the altitude. (The change is so rapid that the last time we went almost everyone in our group got sick.) Rest a day at Putre, a village on the way (at only 11,500 ft/3,500 m) that has good hotels and interesting colonial architecture. Continue on the next day to the park's entrance, a spectacular mountain pass at 14,500 ft/4,400 m. Our favorite site in the park is Lake Chungara, one of the highest lakes in the world. A string of snow-capped volcanoes sits behind the emerald green lake swarming with waterfowl (more than 130 different species). Hundreds of llama and vicuna graze on the grasslands. Be sure to start out at the crack of dawn if you want to see the birds and other wildlife. Another interesting site inside the park is Parinacota, a small Aymara village with a pretty 17th-century church. Overnight camping is also available there. Lauca is 950 mi/1,550 km north of Santiago.

PATAGONIA

The Chilean portion of Patagonia, the southernmost region of South America (it spans both Chile and Argentina), is reached through Punta Arenas. Patagonia's rugged and varied scenery, including fjords, vast pampas, lakes and glaciers is filled with coastal wildlife, such as elephant seals, sea lions and penguins. The weather is harsh—you can expect a lot of snow and rain there.

Among the area's attractions are Lago Argentino, Moreno Glacier, Glacier National Park and the Pampas. Tierra del Fuego and Torres del Paine National Park are close by. Activities include boating and great fishing. Patagonia can be seen by charter plane, four-wheel-drive vehicle, on foot, mountain bike or horseback (or any combination). One of the tours we took included a horseback ride down to the water, followed by a raft ride past towering glaciers.

Also consider taking a tour that will fly over or cruise through the Strait of Magellan. While not spectacular, it's sobering to realize that, for centuries, it was Europe's main passage to the Pacific via the Americas—thousands perished in storms there (for an idea of the rigors of traversing the Strait, read Two Years Before the Mast by Richard Dana). The minimum time needed to see the area is three nights, but we think four or five nights would be ideal.

PORTILLO

This world-famous winter resort offers excellent skiing (both downhill and cross-country), ice skating on Laguna del Inca and splendid mountain views. Many European, Canadian and U.S. ski teams keep in shape on the slopes of Portillo during the Northern Hemisphere's summer. The ski season is June-September, with August being best.

While there, you'll also want to see the Christ of the Andes statue atop a nearby 12,000-ft/3,650-m mountain. The bronze statue, cast from melted-down cannons, commemorates a Chilean-Argentine peace treaty. The drive to Portillo from Santiago is very pretty (and can be exhilarating—there are no guardrails along the road), passing through the Aconcagua Valley along the Rio Blanco. Other ski areas in the region include Farellones-El Colorado (35 mi/55 km east of Santiago) and La Parva. All offer lifts and skiing at elevations of 7,500-9,000 ft/2,200-2,700 m. A fairly new ski resort, Valle Nevado, caters to a young, international crowd. Portillo is 95 mi/150 km northeast of Santiago.

PUERTO MONTT

With a beautiful setting on the Gulf of Ancud, this port city is a must-see and a good base for trips through the Inside Passage to the fjords or the Lake District. Puerto Montt (pop. 130,000) was settled in 1852 by Germans who were attracted to the countryside, which has valleys, forests and mountains. The city's German heritage is evident in its architecture—attractive Alpine houses with decorative balconies abound. Today, the economy is primarily based on fishing, so take time to go to the harbor and observe the activity as boats come in laden with oysters, mussels and fish. Angelmo, on the edge of Puerto Montt, is another fishing port with wonderful seafood, especially the centolla (king crabs).

Several nearby lakes afford excellent trout fishing. If you go in the winter and love to ski, try your skill on Antillanca Volcano. The scenery throughout the region is spectacular—something like the Alps—warranting at least a two-night stay (preferably three). 560 mi/900 km south of Santiago.

PUNTA ARENAS

Considered by Chileans to be the world's southernmost city (and called the Gateway City to Antarctica), Punta Arenas (pop. 112,000) was an important supply station for ships prior to the completion of the Panama Canal. Today this port city on the Strait of Magellan can be toured in about an hour. In Punta Arenas, see the monument to Hernando de Magallanes (Magellan) in the main square, the cathedral and bell tower, the cemetery (graves and monuments to the first settlers and pioneer families) and the restored stockade. Then eat some king crab, buy some Russian caviar and chat with the cosmopolitan citizenry, which includes former Yugoslavians, Italians, Spaniards and Indians (from India).

Most tourists, however, leave Punta Arenas fairly quickly: This is where trips to Antarctica depart. You can also book trips to Patagonia, Tierra del Fuego and Torres del Paine National Park or to Mt. Sarmiento (in the snow-covered Andes), Seno Agostini (glaciers and ice) and Cape Horn (250 mi/400 km southeast—allow a week if you're going by boat or see it as a flying day trip on a chartered plane).

Visitors who stay in Punta Arenas for a few days will find good skiing, abundant vegetation, rolling hills, coniferous forests and sheep and cattle ranches. The nearby town of Fort Bulnes, 30 mi/50 km down the strait—be sure to go there, as the views and atmosphere are fabulous) has the Patagonia Institute (wood carvings, ceramics and local exhibits). The old fishing village of Rinconada Bulnes is known for its colorful fishing boats. The 16th-century ruined town of Puerto de Hambre is worth a look. The name translates as Port of Hunger—the first settlers starved to death during a bad winter. The marker designating the geographical center of Chile is also in the area—the nation claims a large slice of Antarctica.

You can rent a car (with or without a driver) and drive to the southern terminus of the Pan American Highway, which has its other end in Alaska, more than 14,000 mi/22,600 km to the north (with only a short interruption, between Panama and Colombia). We found this stretch of the highway—locally known as the drive to the end of the world—to be well worth the effort. Including stops for sightseeing, the trip can take an entire day. 1,350 mi/2,150 km south of Santiago.

RALUN

On the Reloncavi Estuary, this resort town can be reached by either boat or car. You'll need about two days to take advantage of all it offers: boat rides, beautiful scenery, hiking and other outdoor activities. Take the drive along the shores of Lago Llanquihue and visit Osorno Volcano, Petrohue Falls and Lago Todos los Santos. The final leg of the trip passes through beautiful pine forests. If you're going on to Bariloche, Argentina, we suggest including Ralun as a two-night stopover on the Lake District trip. 40 mi/65 km southeast of Puerto Montt.

RANCAGUA

This town (pop. 180,000) is the gateway to the El Teniente copper mine (the world's largest underground mine). Advance permission to visit the mine can be obtained in Santiago. (The mine is 42 mi/67 km northeast of Rancagua.) The town was the site of a famous revolutionary battle, and there's an interesting history museum. 50 mi/80 km south of Santiago.

RIVER RAFTING

Among the specialty tours operating in Chile are those that offer rafting trips down the Bio-Bio River (class IV and V rapids), Chile's largest and wildest stretch of navigable white water. In addition to the rough stuff—including a 10-ft/3-m drop—the river has relaxing, lazy sections that run past beautiful waterfalls, hot springs and scenic Callaqui Volcano. The journey begins with an overnight train to the town of Victoria, then a drive to the river. We recommend the weeklong ride—it never gets boring.

Note: The Chilean government has begun building a series of dams along the Bio-Bio. For those contemplating white-water trips, the time to go is sooner rather than later.

SANTIAGO

It's easy for Santiago's thriving present to get eclipsed by its troubled past. The city, after all, was the site of a violent military coup in 1973 and, subsequently, became the seat of a notoriously oppressive regime—for nearly two decades it made Chile a byword for political torturings and mysterious disappearances. For many people around the globe, the city's bloody and martial past are lingering associations.

It's inevitable but unfortunate. Since 1990, when the military junta at last ceded power to a democratically elected government, Chile—and Santiago, in particular—has undergone a rebirth of cultural, intellectual and business activity. The national economy grew at a rapid pace for much of the 1990s, and Santiago is now one of Latin America's largest and most vibrant cities. Visitors will find that it contains all the hallmarks of a true metropolis, from its modern subway to its high-rise towers to its obnoxious traffic and air pollution. The city's downtown is dotted with Spanish colonial buildings and old churches, while other neighborhoods house international restaurants, upscale boutiques and active nightlife. Best of all, overlooking the eastern edge of the city are the Andes mountains, whose snowy peaks provide a spectacular backdrop to Santiago's daily life—at least on days when the smog is thin.

Sightseeing in Santiago is rewarding but something of a task, mainly because the city is so spread out. But those willing to do a bit of subway riding and boulevard strolling will find enough stimulating sights to fill up several days. Visitors interested in history or architecture will be impressed by the many colonial-era Spanish buildings and churches that dot the historic Santiago Centro area, especially the hilltop Cerro Santa Lucia, the fort where Pedro de Valdivia founded Santiago. Those more curious about modern Chilean life will want to gravitate toward Bellavista, the center of the city's bohemian culture and home to galleries, theaters, street performers and nightlife. Also in Bellavista is one of Santiago's most recognized and frequented sights, the Statue of the Virgin, which stands atop Cerro San Cristobal.

Throughout the city are several good art and history museums, ranging from the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes to the University of Santiago's planetarium to the Museo Precolombino—you'll find that the downtown district has more museums, large and small, than you can possibly visit in one or two days. Santiago also has many parks and plazas: Parque O'Higgins, Parque Intercomunal La Reina and Parque Metropolitano are three of the grandest, and fun plazas include the Plaza Nunoa and the Plaza San Enrique in Arrayan. Alas, wildlife buffs and thrill seekers will find that the city's zoo and amusement parks, while serviceable, are somewhat lackluster and run down.

Probably the best way to tackle the city is by visiting one neighborhood a day, beginning with the culturally and historically significant Santiago Centro area. You might then hit Estacion Central, Barrio Bellavista and Providencia, taking at least one full day to see each. If you're adventurous, you'll find that walking is really the best way to get around (during the day, anyway): there are so many hidden treasures in Santiago, in its architecture, words, sounds and faces, that it is really worth taking the time to explore on foot.

While local entertainment pickings are modest, frequent visits by top U.S. and European performers offer unparalleled opportunities to see world-class troupes at a modest price and often in a small space. The national symphony, Orquesta Sinfonica de Chile, is based in Santiago and puts on concerts year-round (phone 437-4432). The stately, neoclassic Teatro Municipal is home to the Santiago Opera, Ballet and Philharmonic (phone 633-2549; http://www.municipal.cl). Performances are rarely sold out, and tickets can usually be purchased on the day of the show.

In drama, Santiago is experiencing a minor renaissance of sorts, with many new theatres springing up in the Nunoa and Bellavista neighborhoods. We particularly like Teatro San Gines, an avant-garde troupe (phone 738-2159), and Teatro U.C., which showcases talented actors from the Catholic University as well as professionals (phone 205-5652). However, these events are often poorly publicized, and the lack of an English-language entertainment guide only exacerbates the problem. If you speak Spanish, your best bet is to read the Friday papers El Mercurio and La Tercera.

Despite Santiago's size, its nightlife is fairly unexceptional. Unlike in Rio, Buenos Aires or other large Latin American cities, the night does not run on and on. Except for Friday and Saturday night, when folks stay out well past the wee hours, the bar and nightclub scene is fairly calm. The most lively areas are the Bellavista neighborhood, which is a mainly Chilean scene, and the Suecia strip in Providencia, which gets crowded with foreigners. Suecia is home to tourist-oriented tropical and theme bars that one either loves or loathes. A proposal to put a 2 am closing time on Santiago Centro bars and discos has been debated, so you may want to call ahead to find out about last call.

Dancing is widely available in Santiago, with salsa and techno music generally providing the beat. Major weekly dance parties are publicized by street posters plastered around the Plaza Italia neighborhood. While Santiago is not particularly dangerous, a common fraud among taxi drivers is to pick up foreigners at early morning hours and charge outrageous fares. Practically no fare in Santiago should cost more than Ch$3,000. Do not pay any fare that is higher without checking with a local Chilean.

Be aware that Chileans drink heavily and favor a cocktail known as the pisco sour. These are strong drinks and can leave the unwary newcomer with a stinging headache the next day, as the sweet sugary taste covers a potent grape-based brandy.

TIERRA DEL FUEGO

Among the stories on how this southern area got its name are the following: 1) The first explorers saw bonfires as they approached, which made the land seem to smoke; 2) escaping underground volcanic steam makes it look like the Earth is on fire; and 3) fog and low clouds are sometimes as thick as smoke. We can't verify any of them, but the visual effect is stunning.

The region includes all the islands of the archipelago south of the Strait of Magellan. The main island, Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego, covers 18,500 sq mi/48,000 sq km and is shared by Argentina and Chile. The big island is a fabulous, barren region of high winds and desolate mountains (there are also some lakes and sheep farms). We recommend staying at least two nights.

Those who reach the rocky, 1,400-ft-/425-m-high area known as Cape Horn (at the southern end of Chile's Horn Island) should be prepared for damp, windy weather in a rugged landscape. Local sights include shoulder-high grass, beautiful flowers, birds and the Seaman's Chapel, built of logs. We spent several hours there, and although we found it truly a fascinating experience, we're glad we did it when we were young. Most roads in the area are unpaved—at best. Tierra del Fuego is at the southern tip of South America.

TORRES DEL PAINE

The wildlife and scenery, both inside and nearby this park, are spectacular. Glaciers creep down mountainsides, breaking off into fjords; waterfalls tumble over short cliffs; huge Patagonian hares scurry across the dry terrain; and pink flamingos flock alongside icy blue lakes dotted with icebergs. Herds of sheep and guanacos (something like llamas), fields of wildflowers, lush, green forests, fantastic bird life (including rheas and condors) and rapidly flowing rivers round out the scene. Take a trip out to Grey Glacier, a slow-moving river of ice that feeds Grey Lake. The "Torres" of the park's name are three massive granite "towers" of the Cordillera del Paine range which reach 10,000 ft/3,100 m. If the weather is clear, you can see some of the mountaintops as you land in Punta Arenas.

Outdoors lovers will enjoy rafting on the rapids of the Rio Serrano and fishing for large brown trout (February-April). Not too far from the park is the Milodon Cave, in which ancient fossils of extinct animals, as well as an early human settlement, were found. (A milodon was a sloth as big as a cow—a full-scale model is on display in the cave.) If you're visiting the park as an excursion from Punta Arenas, allow a minimum of three days/two nights. The park can also be seen as a day trip from nearby Puerto Natales or you can overnight in the park. Rainy and cold days are common even in summer—the more time you can spend in the area, the more likely you are to have a good, sunny day. 1,100 mi/1,800 km south of Santiago.

VALPARAISO

Founded in 1536, Valparaiso is Chile's oldest and largest port city (pop. 279,000). We think a day trip allows enough time to see the main sites in the interesting old section of town, including colonial buildings, the Church of La Matriz, Victoria Square and the Naval and Maritime museum. The old-seaport atmosphere of Valparaiso is best appreciated by spending a few hours wandering the steep and winding cobblestone alleyways through the town's colorful working-class neighborhoods. We enjoyed our visit to La Sebastiana, one of Chilean poet Pablo Neruda's eclectically decorated homes, located high above the harbor. You should also plan to visit Neruda's home at Isla Negra, a beautiful stretch of shoreline south of Valparaiso. (Though it's called Isla Negra—Spanish for "Black Island"—it's not an island at all.) The house contains a museum with items belonging to the poet.

What makes Valparaiso distinctive is its rickety-but-reliable network of ascensores (funicular cable cars), which were built at the turn of the 20th century. Though they might not look like much, they are true feats of engineering that your feet will be thankful for. Valparaiso also has a number of good waterfront restaurants and lively, if rather seedy, nightlife. 70 mi/115 km northwest of Santiago.

VINA DEL MAR

Just up the coast from Valparaiso, Vina del Mar is Chile's chief seaside resort (pop. 302,000), and it is the polar opposite of its somewhat gritty southern neighbor: It's shiny, slick and chic, offering golf, tennis, very nice hotels, casinos, parks, shopping, good nightlife, a summer palace and beaches (though the water is often murky, or even muddy). Most people go there to lie on the beach (the main season is January-March), but before you swim you ought to know that the ocean is extremely cold. From Santiago, consider taking the train (about a three-hour trip one way)—the scenery is impressive. To get around Vina del Mar, use the fairly inexpensive horse-drawn fiacres. The town's derby (horse races), held the first Sunday in February, attracts thousands, so reserve hotel space early if you plan to stay for it.

If Vina del Mar is too crowded for your taste, you can always go north to Zapallar or Cachagua, which have the area's most exclusive resorts—there you can find a quiet stay amidst Chilean aristocracy. Another good destination within easy reach of Vina del Mar is La Campana National Park, a park full of huge native palms—several trails leads to overlooks that reveal the Andes on one side and the Pacific Ocean on the other. 75 mi/125 km northwest of Santiago.

Top

History

The country's history is as extensive as its coastline is long. The northern region of Chile formed part of the Inca empire, and the more southerly regions were originally occupied by other indigenous groups. Spanish explorers, conquerors and settlers arrived in the mid 1530s and began a struggle with the native residents that lasted more than 300 years. When the last Arauca Indians on Chiloe Island surrendered, the Spanish hold on the land was complete.

By that point, however, European settlers had already made substantial moves toward independence from Spain (led by a hero with the unlikely name of Bernardo O'Higgins). Though Chile's political history since then has been erratic, the country has enjoyed constitutional rule and a republican form of government throughout much of its history.

The War of the Pacific, fought more than a century ago against Peru and Bolivia, gave Chile some important territory: the mineral-rich Atacama Desert. The next major rift in the nation's history occurred in 1970 when economic difficulties and political unrest followed the election of South America's first Marxist president, Salvador Allende. The tensions culminated in 1973 when the military junta headed by Gen. Augusto Pinochet Ugarte took over the country.

For the next 15 years, Pinochet ruled the country with the proverbial iron fist. Critics of his regime were quickly silenced (and often dissappeared altogether) as the general isolated Chile from most of the world. But Chile's democratic tradition was revived after Pinochet decisively lost a 1988 plebiscite (he had wanted a confirmation of his presidential powers until 1997). A presidential election brought a civilian, Patricio Aylwin, into power, and since then democracy has continued.

Today, many Chileans are pressuring the government to prosecute Pinochet for crimes he allegedly committed as the country's leader -- including the murders of more than 3,000 dissidents. But it's uncertain whether Pinochet will ever be brought to trial in Chile. A bid to try him in Spain for alleged human-rights abuses against Spanish citizens came to an end in 2000. The general was judged unfit to stand trial because it's claimed he suffers from brain damage.

Top

Dining

Local dishes tend to be simple and hearty, such as cazuela (stew with potatoes and chicken, beef or pork), empanadas de horno (baked meat pies), caldillo de congrio (thick fish stew), locro (a meat dish with potatoes and vegetables), charquican (a dish with vegetables and dried beef), humitas (grated corn) and pastel de choclo (a casserole of onions, hard-boiled eggs and minced beef or chicken). In our opinion, fish and seafood are the highlights of Chilean cuisine. Try parrillada de mariscos, a mixed grill of seafood, and don't miss tasting Chilean salmon or razor clams. If you can't decide what to eat, opt for the soup -- Chilean soups are often the best item on the menu. Chileans are very imaginative when it comes to pizza, too -- among the choices of toppings we found were lobster and king crab. Chilean wines can be excellent, particularly wines made from pinot noir grapes. Other drink specialties include borgona, a red wine mixed with sparkling water and fruit; a Christmas drink similar to eggnog called cola de mono; and pisco, a local liquor distilled from grapes that's often mixed with sugar syrup and lemon juice (and called a pisco sour). Chop negro is an excellent dark draft beer -- German settlers first brewed it more than 100 years ago.

Top

Shopping

Shop for blankets, lapis lazuli (the best stones are in Antofagasta), choapinos (wool rugs), earthenware pottery, models of Easter Island statues, shell necklaces, cashmere sweaters, shoes, linen, bronzes, purses, sterling silver jewelry, embroidered handkerchiefs, Chilean wines, Talagante ceramics and copper products. Larger stores in cities have fixed prices, but bargaining is the norm at shops and markets in smaller villages. Good bargains in woven goods (made from llama and alpaca hair) can be purchased from women in villages and small towns.

Top

Climate

Because of its length, Chile encompasses a variety of climates (the country contains both arid deserts and icebergs). There's no one time that's perfect to visit every part of the country, but our favorite season is summer (October-March). In most parts of the country, it seldom rains during that period, humidity is low, midday temperatures reach about 90 F/32C and the nights are cool. The worst time is May-August, when it rains a lot from Santiago south. It's also colder then. A sweater (and, in the south, a heavy jacket) should be taken no matter when you go, as nights can be cool-to-cold nearly everywhere. The best time to visit Easter Island is August-October, and the worst months are June and July, when it rains, and December-February, the busiest tourist season. Temperatures there average 70-90 F/21-34 C year-round.

Top

Health

Access to medical care is assured to all residents in Chile and all have the right to choose care in either the public or private sectors. The quality of care can be reasonably good in many cities, particularly in Santiago and Valparaiso at the large public teaching hospitals and at some private hospitals.

Foreigners can access the health system as needed, and pay for whatever services are provided. For emergency care one should go to the nearest public hospital that has an emergency department.

Top

Basics

- Capital City: Santiago
- Dial Code 1: 56, country code; 2, city code for Santiago; 32, city code for Valparaiso
- Economy: Mining (especially copper), fishing, agriculture, manufacturing.
- Language Description: Spanish.
- Passport/Visa U.S.: Citizens of Australia, Canada, the U.K. and the U.S. need passports but not visas. Travelers from Australia, Canada and the U.S. must pay an entrance fee (US$30-$55 depending on nationality) in U.S. dollars (cash only) upon arrival. Reconfirm travel document requirements with your carrier before departure.
- Population: 15,153,797
- Religion: Christian (Roman Catholic, Protestant).
- Time Zone: 4 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time (-4 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is observed from the second Sunday in October to the second Friday in March. (Easter Island is six hours behind Greenwich Mean Time. Daylight Saving Time is also observed there October-March)
- Tipping Overview: Tip 10% in restaurants and hotels. Do not tip taxi drivers, though you may leave them change from the fare. Tip bellhops Ch$500-$1,000 per bag.
- Voltage Requirements: 220 volts

Top

Do's and Don'ts

Do ride the ascensores (cable cars) of Valparaiso.

Don't be surprised if Chilean Spanish sounds different from that of many other South American countries. It's spoken very quickly, with a Castilian lisp.

Don't expect to eat dinner until 8:30 pm—Chileans tend to eat late.

Don't spend three days in Santiago and think you've seen Chile. Get out in the countryside a bit.

Do read Charles Darwin's Beagle and historical accounts of Magellan's journeys prior to your arrival to gain insight into the southern part of the country.

Do have traditional high tea at Santiago's Hotel Carrera.

Do be careful swimming at beaches, even in resort areas. There are strong undertows and few (if any) lifeguards. Although the beaches are long, clean and wide, the water's generally too cold for swimming without a wetsuit.

Top

Passport & Visa

As regulations are subject to change at short notice it is advisable to check with the Chilean Consulate for the latest information. At present, a visa is not required by the following:

- nationals of EU countries, Australia, Canada, Japan and US for a stay of up to 90 days (except nationals of Greece, who can stay up to 60 days);

- nationals of Antigua & Barbuda, Argentina, Bahamas, Barbados, Belize, Bolivia, Brazil, Colombia, Croatia, Czech Republic, Dominican Republic, Ecuador, El Salvador, Fiji, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, Grenada, Guatemala, Hungary, Iceland, Israel, Jamaica, Liechtenstein, Macau, Malaysia, Malta, Mexico, Monaco, Morocco, New Zealand, Nicaragua, Norway, Panama, Paraguay, Poland, St Kitts & Nevis, St Lucia, San Marino, Slovenia, South Africa, Surinam, Switzerland, Tonga, Tunisia, Turkey, Tuvalu, Uruguay, Vatican City, Venezuela and Yugoslavia (Serbia and Montenegro) for a stay of up to 90 days;

- nationals of Peru and for a stay of up to 60 days;

- nationals of Costa Rica, Honduras, Indonesia, Singapore and Zimbabwe for a stay of up to 30 days;

- transit passengers continuing their journey on the same or first connecting aircraft provided holding required travel documents for onward destination and not leaving the airport transit lounge.

Nationals of the USA, Canada and Australia entering Chile for touristic purposes will be charged a processing fee payable on arrival and in cash only. For nationals of the USA the fee is US$45, for nationals of Canada, the fee is US$55, for nationals of Mexico, the fee is $15 and for nationals of Australia the fee is US$30.

PASSPORT

Valid passport required by all except:

- nationals of Argentina, Brazil, Colombia, Paraguay and Uruguay, provided not entering under commercial contract or as students or as immigrants, can enter with a special identity card (Cédula de Identitad) for short-term visits (except foreign residents of these countries who do need a passport);

- Chinese residents of Taiwan (China) and nationals of Taiwan, Mexico and Peru who have an official travel document issued by the Organisation of American States. Documents have to remain valid for 6 months after departure.

Note: Passports issued to children must contain a photo and state the nationality...

IMPORTANT: we cannot held responsible for the correctness of this information.

Top

© Copyright: John Nelson