DESTINATION GUIDES > COUNTRIES

Argentina

Argentina has, arguably, the tastiest beef, the sexiest dance, the best-looking people, some of the cutest penguins, the highest peak and the most cosmopolitan city in Latin America.

Add to that its vast plains and deserts, glistening lakes, thundering glaciers and some of the greatest waterfalls on Earth, and you have a destination with immense potential.

Argentina has something for just about everyone: Buenos Aires, Iguazu Falls, Patagonia, cattle ranches, the Andes, historical sites, beaches, skiing, nightlife, spectacular scenery, the Pampas, wildlife, fishing and casinos are Argentina's main attractions...

Where to Go

BARILOCHE

One of the must-see sights in Argentina is the ski resort of Bariloche. This Andean village looks like it belongs in Switzerland—and like Swiss ski resorts, Bariloche can be quite crowded in high season (though it's a bit run-down in comparison with its European counterparts). It's easy to see why so many people go—it's in an unbelievably beautiful area. Located on the shores of Lake Nahuel Huapi, in the midst of Nahuel Huapi National Park, Bariloche is surrounded by dense forests, alpine lakes and 12,000-ft/3,660-m mountains.

Bariloche itself is filled with Swiss chalet-type hotels and has a number of sights worth seeing, including a small museum with displays about the area's founder, Francisco Moreno. But our favorite activities (and everyone else's) can be found on the main street and the slopes—shopping and skiing. Sample some of the many varieties of jellies and jams made from native fruits found nowhere else in the world, and each day you're there, stop in a different chocolate shop to try to determine whose version of the local specialty, papas de Bariloche, you like best. Skiing sometimes starts in May at Cerro Cathedral, 12 mi/20 km from town, but the best time to hit the slopes is July-October. During the warm months you can fish for salmon in clear mountain streams, take a boat ride to pretty Isla Victoria (to see pudu deer) or take in a great view from atop Otto Hill (reached by aerial gondolas). Other impressive sights are towering Mt. Tronador and the nearby black glacier field.

A trip to Bariloche can be combined with an excursion to Chile. If possible, take a tour that overnights along the way—a nonstop trip to Puerto Montt, Chile, is complicated and tiring (although feasible). Trips go from Bariloche to Puerto Blest by boat (past waterfalls), by bus, by boat again, then by bus again through some of the most beautiful, peaceful scenery in South America, including dormant volcanoes and milky green water. Not to be missed! We especially enjoyed the all-day boat and bus trip across Lago Nahuel Huapi. (Keep your eyes open for condors carrying food to their nests in the cliffs overhead.)

Other ski resorts in the Argentine Andes include Mendoza, Villavicencio and Valle de las Lenas. Villavicencio has very good facilities, is in a beautiful setting and is near some interesting ruins, and Valle de las Lenas is an excellent, world-class ski resort with world-class powder skiing. 830 mi/1,335 km southwest of Buenos Aires.

BUENOS AIRES

Upon arrival in Buenos Aires, many visitors make a beeline for Plaza Dorrego in the San Telmo neighborhood of colonial and tango fame, whether or not the Sunday flea market is in progress. Many put the Recoleta cemetery high on their list of things to see: To pay your respects to Evita, look for the family tomb marked Familia Duarte, but don't miss the other displays of grandeur all around you. And absolutely not to be missed is the Teatro Colon. Even if you aren't able to watch a performance, take a guided tour of its interior. Make time to see the grand green spaces in the Parque de Palermo, which houses many gardens, a museum and more.

Those drawn to the water should stroll around the Puerto Madero area, which now harbors a yacht club, expensive restaurants, two museum ships, the Hilton Buenos Aires, offices, a movie theater and a university campus. And those who happen to be in Buenos Aires on a Sunday should take a car service or bus to the Mataderos Fair to watch folk dancing and the gaucho displays. Try some empanadas or hearty meat and corn stew, followed by sugared fritters.

For museum-goers, the National History Museum is a must-see, with its well-exhibited contents and pleasant setting, as is the Isaac Fernandez Blanco Museum of Spanish-American Art, a replica of a Peruvian colonial mansion, complete with gardens. The new Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (MALBA) is definitely worth a visit. For those wanting to take in a bit of classical art, the Museum of Fine Arts is the destination of choice, while the Museum of Modern Art and the Sivori Museum both exhibit more contemporary works. The country's roots are on display at the Jose Hernandez Museum of Popular Argentine Motifs.

Buenos Aires has always been a hotbed for the performing arts. Ballet, opera and classical music all have strong presences there, and several new opera groups and choirs have sprung up in a city that has long idolized opera singers. The epicenter of opera, classical music and dance is the traditional Teatro Colon; for contemporary expression it's the Teatro San Martin. Other well-known venues include the Teatro Avenida and the Teatro Coliseo. The most popular theater groups are comedians: The long-running Les Luthiers are well loved.

Going out at night is a cherished porteno custom. In the beginning there were (and still are) tango music and dance halls, then night clubs and discos. Irish pubs, cocktail lounges and theme cafes are now the latest rage. Nights in Buenos Aires begin late and often end in the wee hours of the morning. Many people dine late, have a drink or coffee and then hit the clubs shortly after midnight, though 2 am really isn't too late to start dancing. Clubs don't close before 5 am and most close well after dawn so you can pick up breakfast before taking a cab home. Night spots are everywhere, but there are pockets of particular interest along the Costanera Norte riverside drive and in Puerto Madero, the downtown area, Palermo and Belgrano.

CAFAYATE

This whitewashed pueblo, popular with Argentine tourists, is set in the middle of a wine-producing region. In Cafayate, visitors can tour the archaeological museum or the wine museum (though we developed a deeper appreciation of viniculture tasting wines at one of the local vineyards). There are a couple of attractions near town, and each merits an excursion of half a day. One is La Quebrada de Cafayate, a group of strange red sandstone formations eroded by wind and water. On the way to visit this natural wonder, note the giant cacti dotting the landscape. Also near Cafayate are the extensive ruins of a Quilmes Indian city (the Indians themselves, the last to resist the Spanish, were overcome in 1667). Plan two days in Cafayate. 725 mi/1,165 km northwest of Buenos Aires.

COMODORO RIVADAVIA

A center for petroleum exploration and refining, Comodoro Rivadavia is usually visited only by passengers connecting to flights to other parts of Patagonia. That's a shame, really, because the city is near some natural wonders and has one of the nation's better museums. To the southwest is the Jose Ormachea Petrified Forest (Reserva Geologica Bosque Petrificado), and due south are the Cuevas de las Manos, a series of prehistoric caves with 10,000-year-old images of hands, camels, reptiles and other animals painted on the walls. At low tide, you can see sea lions on the beach at Rada Tilly (3 mi/5 km south), though it's too cold for swimming. The museum is the Museo del Petroleo—which, in spite of its name, isn't dedicated solely to petroleum exhibits. Paid for with petroleum money, it has natural history and cultural exhibitions, as well as some displays related to Argentina's oil industry. 910 mi/1,465 km southwest of Buenos Aires.

CORDOBA

Argentina's second-largest city, colonial Cordoba (pop. 1,198,000) lies in the center of a region of many rivers. The area will appeal to anyone attracted to a relaxed, natural lifestyle amid rolling hills and valleys (the land is semiarid, despite the presence of the rivers). Don't miss the cathedral in the center of town, the university (founded in 1613) and the museum (regional history). Two popular resort towns are located nearby: Carlos Paz, a scenic half-day trip from Cordoba, and the resort area of Mina Clavero, which is a bit farther afield but has many natural swimming pools. Most people enjoy one night in Cordoba. 400 mi/645 km northwest of Buenos Aires.

CORRIENTES

Located on the Parana River, Corrientes and its sister city, Resistencia, provide an appealing stop on the overland trip to Iguazu Falls. Corrientes was founded in 1588 and has an interesting museum, a Renaissance-style cathedral and a modern university. We enjoyed the annual Carnival festival (held in February). The town is a natural departure point for trips to the Esteros de Ibera, an enormous area of marshlands that holds an incredible variey of flora and fauna. Stay on an estancia (ranch) and explore on horseback. To the north is Paso de la Patria, at the junction of the Parana and Paraguay Rivers, where anglers enjoy some of Argentina's best sportfishing (try catching the dorado, a tasty fish known as the "tiger of the Parana"). Another excursion goes to the nearby town of San Luis del Palmar to see Spanish colonial architecture, some of which dates from the town's founding in 1596. 485 mi/780 km north of Buenos Aires.

ESQUEL

Rather than being an attraction on its own, the town of Esquel is a good base from which to see a number of area sights. There's good skiing (cheaper than Bariloche) a short distance north of town, and Los Alerces National Park is about 40 mi/60 km west. Rail enthusiasts will want to ride the narrow-gauge train, La Trochita (also called the "Old Patagonian Express"), that steams the 60 mi/100 km between El Maiten and Esquel. South of Esquel is the Welsh-influenced town of Trevelin. 900 mi/1,450 km southwest of Buenos Aires.

GLACIERS NATIONAL PARK

This park, a UNESCO World Heritage site, has some of the most spectacular sights in the country. One of the planet's few advancing glaciers, Perito Moreno Glacier, periodically dams the Brazo Rico of Lago Argentino, causing the water to rise. Eventually the melting ice below can no longer support the weight of the water behind it and the dam collapses in an explosion of ice and water. This spectacular event has been occurring, on average, every four years, but scientists believe that the water is flowing past the current dam via an under-the-surface tunnel. Therefore, it is uncertain when, if ever, another collapse will take place. The 22-mi-/35-km-long glacier is amazing in itself, though, and from a series of catwalks and vantage points on the Peninsula Magallanes you can watch and listen as tremendous chunks of ice crash into the Canal de los Tempanos. Those in good physical condition can hike on the iceberg itself. Buses run from Calafate to Moreno during tourist season (November-February). You can take a one-hour boat ride up near the glacier's walls.

About 8 mi/13 km outside Calafate are some caves with ancient paintings, though visitors need special permission to view them. The area teems with bird life. Even larger than Moreno is the Upsala Glacier, viewed by boats leaving from Punta Bandera, just west of Calafate. You'll see icebergs of all shapes and sizes and varying hues of blue and white. In the far north of the park are Mt. Fitzroy and Cerro Torre, popular with climbers and hikers. Chalten, the village closest to the mountains, may be reached by bus from Calafate. Calafate is also a good jumping-off point for tours to the Torres del Paine National Park, across the border in Chile. 1,300 mi/2,080 km southwest of Buenos Aires.

HUMAHUACA

This high-altitude town, in the beautiful Quebrada de Humahuaca Valley, is a popular tourist attraction that reminds the visitor that Argentina shares a border and an indigenous cultural heritage with Bolivia. Walk the narrow cobblestone streets and visit the folklore museum and the Church of the Candelaria (nice paintings from the Cuzco school). Visit the town square at noon, when the mechanized figure of St. Francis comes out of the town hall clock (to see the show, get there early—the old clock doesn't keep perfect time). In Uquia, just 6 mi/10 km south, visit the Templo Santa Cruz y San Francisco, built in the 1690s (it has some excellent art). At Coctaca, 6 mi/9 km to the northeast, there's a large archaeological site and a nearby Indian village. 880 mi/1,415 km northwest of Buenos Aires.

IGUAZU FALLS

On the borders of Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay, these spectacular waterfalls are best seen March-June (there are fewer people then, and the humidity can get oppressive November-February). The falls can be visited from the Brazilian or Argentine side: Either is impressive. While the falls are seen more easily from Brazil, the paths, jungle and sunset views are better in Argentina.

Iguazu should not be missed: Made up of 275 cascades spanning a distance of 2 mi/3 km and rising up to 300 ft/90 m high, it's one of the most impressive sights in the world. Rainbows, roaring waters, red earth and jungle scenery make it worthy of a long stop—enough time for real contemplation. Visitors on the Argentine side should see the falls from both access points: the lower trail, which twists through the rain forest to a boat that takes you on a five-minute ride to Isla San Martin, at the base of the southern end of the falls; and the upper trail, which ends at the edge of Devil's Throat, the most dramatic view of the cascades. You can also reach the two areas by bus, but in either case, be prepared for a lot of (fairly easy) walking and a good chance of getting wet. The area surrounding the falls is jungly and tropical, a showcase for a wide variety of colorful birds, butterflies and flowering plants. Good hotels (at the most reasonable prices in Argentina) are available on both the Argentine and Brazilian side. It's worth the extra expense to stay at a hotel that has a view of the falls. We also recommend staying at least one night to take advantage of changing light conditions. Sunset on the surrounding terrain is magnificent, and by moonlight, it's simply magical.

Nearby are the town of Posadas and the Missions Province. If you're interested in duty-free shopping, you can visit the town of Puerto del Este, Paraguay, although it's rather seedy and crowded—a picture of South America in one of its least attractive poses. Also just across the border in Paraguay is Itaipu Dam, one of the world's largest dams. 660 mi/1,060 km north of Buenos Aires.

JUJUY

A Spanish colonial town with an Andean Indian flair, Jujuy (pronounced hoo-HOOEY) has a pleasant atmosphere. The city streets are lined with orange trees, and whitewashed European-style buildings mingle with adobe architecture. Jujuy hosts a colorful Indian market—Mercado del Sur—opposite the bus station. The nicely restored cathedral houses a gilded pulpit that was carved by Indians. Try to be in town during Easter—the celebration includes traditional costumes and music.

In the area are Salta and a rock formation known as the Devil's Bridge. Also nearby, at Tilcara, is a pucara—an Incan fortress—that commands a scenic view from its hilltop position. Jujuy's environs are a good place to spot llamas in a desert landscape and take photos of the vividly colored rock strata. Northeast of Jujuy are the Parque Nacional Calilegua, a cloud forest and the Termas de Reyes (thermal baths located on the canyon slopes of the Rio Reyes). 820 mi/1,320 km northwest of Buenos Aires.

LA PLATA

La Plata, the capital of Buenos Aires Province, has one of the largest cathedrals in South America. While in town, visit the Museum of Natural Science, which many consider to be the best in Argentina (exhibits include mummies and human skulls). La Plata is easily reached by train or bus from downtown Buenos Aires. 35 mi/55 km southeast of Buenos Aires.

LA RIOJA

Founded in 1591, La Rioja has beautiful colonial architecture (much of it rebuilt after an 1894 earthquake) and an awe-inspiring mountain in the background (La Mexicana, which rises 20,250 ft/6,250 m). Notable examples of early Spanish buildings are the convents of Santo Domingo and San Francisco.

The other side of La Rioja's heritage can be seen at the Museo Inca Huasi, which houses more than 12,000 Indian artifacts, ceramics and weavings. La Rioja is noted for its style of pottery—see or buy good examples at the Mercado Artesanal. Day trips can be taken to Santa Teresita Hot Springs and to Talampaya, a provincial park with a deep canyon and many rock formations. 610 mi/980 km northwest of Buenos Aires.

LOS ALERCES NATIONAL PARK

Set amid the Andes in remote Chubut Province, this park is less touristy than the areas near Bariloche. It includes a series of pristine lakes and streams, which offer excellent fishing, hiking and other types of outdoor recreation. The park is named after the alerces, a Patagonian cypress that resembles the giant sequoias of California's Sierra Nevada. Don't miss the boat excursion along Lago Menendez to El Alerzal, the largest stand of alerces. Other sites include El Abuelo, one of the oldest known specimens of alerce (at about 3,000 years old), and the groves of chusquea (a solid bamboo that grows in groups of 100—when one stalk blooms the entire grove will die and fall). 910 mi/1,465 km southwest of Buenos Aires.

MAR DEL PLATA

The city of Mar del Plata graces the Atlantida Argentina—the Argentine Riviera. Beautiful beaches stretch 15 mi/25 km along the Atlantic. The seafood is fabulous and the fishing excellent. Nightlife centers on the world's largest casino (it's mostly roulette—and black tie is de rigueur). The best time to visit is December-March, but be forewarned that the water is quite chilly even in the summer. Usually, two nights will do, unless you want to visit an estancia (ranch) in Ojo de Agua or Chapadmalal (if so, add at least a full day). Sweater factories in the area offer nice bargains. 250 mi/400 km south of Buenos Aires.

MENDOZA

The city's old colonial section was destroyed by fire and earthquake in 1861, so there's not much that's unique to see in Mendoza. It is, however, a bustling place with a wonderful climate, thanks to its location at the foot of the Andes. The main attraction is the Saturday morning artisans market on the Plaza Espana. However, the surrounding area is worth seeing—beautiful Andean scenery (including Aconcagua, at 22,835 ft/6,960 m the highest peak in the Americas), several vineyards and a number of excellent skiing facilities beckon. Nearby is the Christ the Redeemer Statue and the Puente del Inca, a natural stone bridge 150 ft/45 m long and about 90 ft/25 m high. Mendoza is also the wine capital of Argentina (there's a nice wine museum), and many winery and tasting tours are available. 610 mi/980 km northwest of Buenos Aires.

MISSIONS PROVINCE

Located in the far northeastern corner of Argentina, Missions Province was so named because of its 12 Jesuit missions, which are now in ruins. The most notable lie along the route between Iguazu Falls and the town of Posadas (there's a regional museum there, too). The mission of San Ignacio Mini, founded in 1631, is one of the oldest and best preserved. Built of red sandstone, it has barracks, priests' quarters and a baroque-style church. The ruins of Loreto and Santa Ana are a few miles away. (For a glimpse into the region's history, rent the movie The Mission before leaving for Argentina.) 600 mi/965 km northeast of Buenos Aires.

PATAGONIA

Beginning in central Argentina and stretching from the Rio Colorado to the Straits of Magellan, the vast, desolate region of Patagonia is a haven for naturalists. Almost 30% of the nation's territory, it's filled with unique animals (including guanacos, penguins and elephant seals) and flora, windswept and barren land, lakes and unspoiled nature. It's also a popular destination for those who like to fish, especially November-May, when trout, salmon and native species such as trahira can be hooked in the rivers and streams flowing through the Andean foothills.

There are three major sections: Rio Negro and Neuquen Provinces (access via Bariloche); Chubut Province (includes Puerto Madryn, Gaiman, Los Alerces National Park and Comodoro Rivadavia); and Santa Cruz Province (Rio Gallegos and Glaciers National Park). Because the area lacks accommodations and travel facilities, we suggest taking an escorted tour. Layered clothing is a must, including a windbreaker, as it can get cool, perhaps into the 40s F/5-10 C as you travel south, even during the summer months. Patagonia begins 450 mi/725 km southwest of Buenos Aires.

ROSARIO

There's not much to see in Rosario. It's basically an industrial and export center with a few art-deco buildings and the overblown Monumento Nacional a la Bandera—a monument to the country's flag that includes a 240-ft/73-m tower and the crypt of the flag's designer. The monastery of San Carlos, however, is close by and is worth a visit. The provincial capital, Santa Fe, located 100 mi/160 km from Rosario, has an interesting history museum and the San Francisco Church. 180 mi/290 km northwest of Buenos Aires.

ALTA

Founded in 1582, this city still has a very Spanish feel. That's ironic, because Salta is where the decisive battle for independence from Spain took place. Today, the city offers some nice self-guided walking tours: There are quite a few colonial buildings, some converted into museums, that are worth a look. Be sure to try Andean foods while in Salta—the empanadas and corn-based dishes such as tamales and humitas are great. For an overview of the city, take a cable car from Parque San Martin up to Cerro San Bernardo. Tobacco is grown in deep gorges around the outskirts of town, and there's a 700-ft-/215-m-long, 190-ft-/60-m-high train viaduct.

An excursion can be made from Salta to Cafayate or Jujuy. But one of our favorite trips from Salta is the Train to the Clouds, a round trip of 215 mi/350 km (Salta-Munano-Salta) passing over mountain ranges, deep gorges and beautiful scenery (the very earth seems to change colors, depending on the time of day). A startling feat of engineering and one of the great train-ride adventures in the world, the ride takes a full day to go and return. (Altitude sickness, however, can be a problem—Munano is at 12,965 ft/3,950 m.)

About 55 mi/90 km east of Salta is El Rey National Park, which is full of birds and other wildlife. The park was created to protect Argentina's southernmost subtropical forest. Plan a night in Salta, or two nights if you're seeing area attractions. 800 mi/1,290 km northwest of Buenos Aires.

SAN MIGUEL DE TUCUMAN

This town of 500,000 is surrounded by beautiful scenery. Founded by the Spanish in 1565, Tucuman is a nice place to take a vacation from your vacation—the pace is slow, the climate mild year-round (60s-70s F/15-27 C) and accommodations more than adequate. Many Spanish colonial buildings still remain, including the Casa de la Independencia, where Argentine independence was declared in 1816. Excursions can be made to San Javier or Villa Nougues for fine views of the city. North of Tucuman, near the town of Tafi, is Parque de los Menhires, where there are a number of dolmen (ancient monuments). There are also many stone circles in the area. 660 mi/1,065 km northwest of Buenos Aires.

TIERRA DEL FUEGO

A fascinating region, Tierra del Fuego ranges from barren, desolate landscape raked clean by high winds to pine and beech forests, beautiful blue lakes and snowcapped mountain peaks (and good trout fishing as well). The area, shared by Argentina and Chile, is actually on an island at the southern tip of South America. Most people use Ushuaia (the world's southernmost city) on the Beagle Channel as a base: It's 6 mi/10 km west of the entrance to Tierra del Fuego National Park.  Travelers can choose from ferry rides to Isla de los Lobos (sea lions), Isla de Pajaros (Bird Island), Martello Island (penguins), Bridges Island (seals and birds) and Martial Glacier (the glacier has a chairlift for skiers). Try to visit the park during summer (December-February) or in March to see the fall foliage. Take along warm clothing any time of year. 1,500 mi/2,400 km south of Buenos Aires.

VALDES PENINSULA

This peninsula is a marine-life preserve for sea elephants, sea lions, maras (huge rabbits), Magellanic penguins (best seen October-April on Punto Tombo), rheas (ostrichlike birds) and other animals, as well as whales and migratory birds. The peninsula is set between Viedma and the nearby resort of Puerto Madryn, which makes a comfortable base for exploring the peninsula. Accommodations are available on the peninsula at Faro Punta Delgada, a base for marine research that offers meals, lectures, hikes and horseback riding. Also, visit the charming Welsh-influenced town of Trelew for a proper afternoon tea while you enjoy the amazing animals and birds. From Trelew, the Welsh town of Gaiman makes a nice day trip. Settled in the 1870s, the town is one of the few places in the world where the Welsh language is still spoken (outside of Wales, of course), and the town retains other elements of its heritage, in teahouses and a museum. 665 mi/1,070 km southwest of Buenos Aires.

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History

Argentina's pre-Columbian Indian population put up a good fight against the Spanish, but the colonists eventually became permanent fixtures, founding important settlements in the mid 16th century. They acquired a good deal of the country's best land, established estancias (ranches) and made their livelihoods through agriculture and livestock. Independence from Spain was declared in 1816 under the guidance of General San Martin. British money flowed in, as did European immigrants. By the start of World War I, Argentina was one of the world's leading agricultural exporters, and the phrase "as rich as an Argentine" was commonly heard abroad.

While those with land were doing well, the working class was suffering. Populist leader Juan Peron, along with his wife Evita, found great support from these Argentines. He led the country from 1946 to 1955, and again from 1973 to 1974, bringing political and economic reform.

The latter part of the 20th century has seen a cycle of elections, coups, countercoups and a steady erosion of the nation's wealth. The country hit bottom in the 1970s, when a series of military governments instigated the Dirty War, an anticommunist witch-hunt that caused the "disappearance" of almost 12,000 men, women and children. In hopes of deflecting attention from their failed policies, the armed forces fought a war with Great Britain over the Falkland Islands (known as Las Malvinas in Argentina). Argentina lost. As a result, the ruling junta of generals and admirals was ousted and Argentina returned to constitutional government. The election in 1989 of President Carlos Menem marked the century's first orderly transfer of power from one civilian government to another. While the '80s were a time of economic chaos, the '90s saw relative calm. But the cycle continues and the chaos has returned.

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Dining

If there is a heaven for carnivores, we are sure that all of the restaurants there are Argentine. Meat -- especially beef - is the main ingredient and focal point of the country's cuisine. Try the Argentine national dish, parrilla: It's an overwhelming mixed grill of steaks, sausage and assorted organ meats. The Argentines also have a unique way of cutting their meat, so the shapes will be a bit different. Typical meat dishes include bife de chorizo (a huge two-inch-thick steak), bife de lomo (short loin), the recognizable bife de costilla (or T-bone) and the simple chorizo (a tasty pork sausage). Other favorite dishes include puchero (a tasty mulligan stew), tartas (vegetable pies) and empanadas del horno (a baked pastry stuffed with just about anything). The food found in Argentina's Italian restaurants is somewhat distantly related to what you might find in Italy. Argentine-Italian food tends to be heavy and made with lots of cream. Pizzas and noquis (the Spanish word for gnocchi -- a pasta made with potatoes) are generally good. Other international restaurants (French, Chinese, Japanese, etc.) can also be found. Try some of the rich desserts and pastries: flan, panqueques (a crepe dessert), zapallo en almibar (a sweet squash in cream) or anything topped with dulce de leche (a caramelized milk). Ice cream is particularly good in Argentina, especially from the heladerias (ice cream shops) that make their own. In Latin fashion, mealtimes tend to be much later than is customary in many other nations. Lunch is around 2 pm, dinner starts at 10 pm. Bars, coffee shops and sidewalk cafes are open well past midnight.

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Shopping

Buenos Aires offers excellent, high-quality shopping for leather goods, gems and brand-name products such as Gucci, Dior, etc. Other items to look for include rugs, gaucho souvenirs, sheepskin products, wines, guitars, art, handicrafts, yerba mate paraphernalia such as gourds and bombillas (metal straws with a filter at the bottom) and vicuna products (high-quality wool from a llamalike creature). You also may want to get a pair of gaucho trousers -- bombachas -- or perhaps a poncho. In Buenos Aires, stroll down Calle Florida and Avenida Santa Fe for upscale stores, where leather goods and custom-made suits are a good buy. There are also many markets and department stores for bargain shoppers. Low-key bargaining may get you a better price outside of department stores or on any big-ticket item.

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Climate

Climates range from hot and humid in the north to cold and rainy in the south. In northern Argentina, summer days will be in the 90s F/33-37 C and nights in the 70s F/23-27 C (winter highs in the 60s F/15-22 C and lows in the 40s F/5-10 C). Tierra del Fuego, at the southern tip of Argentina, is almost always cold and/or rainy, with summer highs in the 50s-60s F/10-21 C and temperatures well below freezing in the winter.

Generally, the best time to go is October-April (remember that the seasons are reversed from the Northern Hemisphere). To lie on the beach, go December-March; to ski, go July-October.

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Health

Medical care is generally good, but it varies in quality outside major cities. Serious medical problems requiring hospitalization and/or medical evacuation can cost thousands of dollars or more. Doctors and hospitals often expect immediate cash payment for health services. In general, the pharmacies in Argentina are reliable. That is, they dispense the proper medications and the drugs themselves are of a U.S./Westem level of quality. The pharmacists themselves are trained professionals with degrees in their field. Pharmacies in Argentina can be used for all of your prescription and over-the-counter drug needs. Pharmacists cannot distribute prescription medications without authorization from a doctor.

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Basics

- Capital City: Buenos Aires
- Dial Code 1: 54, country code
- Economy: Agriculture, minerals, industry.
- Language Description: Spanish.
- Passport/Visa: Passports needed by citizens of Australia, Canada, the U.K. and the U.S. If traveling for business, Canadian citizens must have a business visa. Proof of onward passage and sufficient funds required for all. Reconfirm travel document information with your carrier before departure.
- Population: 36,955,182
- Religion: Roman Catholic.
- Time Zone: 3 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time (-3 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is not observed
- Tipping Overview: Tip about 5% in restaurants if a service charge is included, 10% if no tip has been added. Don't tip taxi drivers, but do tip ushers at the cinemas.
- Voltage Requirements: 220 volts

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Do's and Don'ts

Do sail to the ends of the earth on a cruise to Antarctica. Ships depart from Ushuaia.

Do have a coffee at the famous Cafe Tortoni in Buenos Aires. Cafes are a way of life in B.A., but Tortoni is perhaps the most famous cafe in all of Argentina, patronized by celebrities since 1858.

Do learn to dance the tango, or at least watch others dance it. One of the best spots for admiring tango couples, or for receiving an impromptu lesson, is at the San Telmo flea market on Sundays in Buenos Aires.

Do spend a night on an estancia and mingle with some of the last real cowboys.

Don't ask about your change if it's less than 20 centavos (50 centavos in a taxi). One- and five-cent pieces are not in circulation and change is not considered important. Do carry plenty of one- and five-peso notes as few stores have change for bills over 20 and taxis never have change for anything over a 10.

Don't expect all banks to cash traveler's checks.

Don't be surprised if you have to go to the post office to mail letters or postcards. You can't just stamp your missives and drop them in the box. And don't mail things that really matter—the Argentine postal service is reliably unreliable.

Do try yerba mate, an herbal drink similar to tea. It's not just the national drink—it's a cultural ritual as well. The mate is passed clockwise and shared as a sign of friendship and acceptance.

Do try to see a polo match. Argentina is known for having polo players who are among the best (and best-looking) in the world.

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Passport & Visa

Passport valid for 6 months required by all except nationals of Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil, Chile, Paraguay and Uruguay who, for journeys that do not go beyond Argentina and these five countries, may use their national ID cards.

Visa required by all except the following:

- nationals of EU countries, Australia, Canada, Japan and US for stays of up to 90 days;

- nationals of Andorra, Barbados, Bolivia, Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Costa Rica, Czech Republic, Croatia, Dominican Republic, Ecuador, El Salvador, Guatemala, Haiti, Honduras, Hungary, Israel, Liechtenstein, Malta, Mexico, Monaco, New Zealand, Nicaragua, Norway, Panama, Paraguay, Peru, Poland, San Marino, Singapore, Slovenia, South Africa, Switzerland, Turkey, Uruguay, Vatican City, Venezuela and Yugoslavia (Serbia and Montenegro) for stays of up to 90 days;

- nationals of Hong Kong (British Nationals Overseas), Jamaica and Malaysia for stays of up to 30 days;

IMPORTANT: we cannot held responsible for the correctness of this information.

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